spark plug removal - best practice?

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1. You're overthinking this. Stop. It's fine.
2 & 3. It the plugs threaded out and back in fine, the threads are fine. Stop looking for problems that aren't there.
4. Torque spec allows up to 22 ft/lbs. Reduce that by 20% for the anti-seize and you're at 17.6 ft/lbs. You're at 18 ft/lbs. They're fine.

If anyone comes along and points out the inaccuracies of torque wrenches, just ignore it. If anyone says "you shouldn't put anti-seize on spark plugs", just ignore it.
 
Never used AS in nine cars over the 35yrs I've been driving and never had a plug seize (nor have I ever stripped threads) but I suppose it can happen. Guess I've had good fortune..(I've always used an extension w/plug socket and hand turned until tight, then tighten to spec w/torque wrench)

Do what makes you feel best OP...
 
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Dont know about removing them but iv seen someone put the plugs in with a rattle gun. I ran from that garage.
 
Originally Posted by slybunda
Dont know about removing them but iv seen someone put the plugs in with a rattle gun. I ran from that garage.


Uggghhhhh..... guess they go in fast.
 
Originally Posted by slybunda
Dont know about removing them but iv seen someone put the plugs in with a rattle gun. I ran from that garage.


Wow, scary stuff!!
 
OP: good job on your project. As far as your comment about the effects of new plugs over worn plugs, the big difference I usually notice is easier starting, especially in cold weather.
 
Originally Posted by NissanMaxima
...In the meantime, I tackled the rear three which were somewhat more challenging to get to simply reach-wise but not terribly difficult. I found that after getting those loose by about 1/4-1/2 turn, they spun out relatively easily so didn't mess with the oil...


Sounds like the NGK trivalent anti-seize plating on the threads prevented the plugs from getting welded into the heads.
 
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