2018 Honda Pilot - 9150miles on 0W-20 Mobil 1 EP

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Ran this 0w-20 Mobil 1 EP 9150 miles - mostly medium trips around town. Did a big trip to the White Mountains a week before changing this oil so that was some extended highway miles and pretty decent hills. My wife drives this car now and she's pretty easy on it. I was honestly expecting the wear metals to come down significantly but they did not and iron is worse on a per mile basis. This car does have the tow package so I'm hoping that at explains at least some of the high copper but the aluminum and iron are puzzling me. The car seems to drive and perform normally.

Any thoughts or comments appreciated.
 

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Oil is getting thin at end of OCI. Min. hot viscosity for a 20 grade is 6.9 cSt, you are at 7.5 cSt. New 20 grade oils are typically just under 9 cSt. Does that have ANYTHING to do with the wear metals ? Who knows.

Maybe try a 30 grade for one OCI, and see if anything changes ...

I tried a 30 grade in our Pilot. Cold starts and fuel economy, no change from 20's. Engine is quieter when hot. Haven't put a 20 grade in since ...
 
It might be best to wait one more OCI before jumping to any conclusions. The engine might need a little more time to shed the remaining break in metals.
 
It doesn't have anything to do with the viscosity or oil IMO. Give it another round and see what happens. I'd cut the interval in 1/2 and see where you stand.
 
I agree with shortening the interval, but not because of the viscosity. It appears there was a lot of break-in material on the first UOA, so I would literally grab a syn-blend 0W20, and run two 2500-3k OCIs. You want this to turn over the sump and all the oil in the passages to help clean out any residual wear metals. Then, after the ~5k, 2 OCI with the inexpensive stuff and no UOAs, go back to your EP for a 9k OCI with a UOA. I'd be willing to bet you'll see all of those wear metals take a precipitous drop, not because anything fundamentally changed, but because you got a much larger percentage of that residual oil out. Heck, you could even use Harvest King full syn 0W20 as it is d1G2 rated and made by Warren, for $13.99/5qts.
 
I'd probably cut the intervals in half, I just don't feel comfortable goi over 5,000 miles on 0w20 in these direct injected engines. I know some won't agree and that's fine, but with direct injection, variable valve timing and timing chains, I just think there's too much being asked of these light weight oils nowadays in a lot of engines.

I've had some issues with direct injection and engine wear...used to do longer intervals...I blame that. I could be wrong, probably am, but let's just say I'm a bit spooked by it now.
 
Man, I was a little curious about my Cu, but now I don't know whether to feel better for me or feel bad for you. I'd also cut the interval in half, which is what I've been running with M1 EP 0W-20 with some M1 0W-40 mixed in because I have it and to get the viscosity up in the upper end of the range. I've got a sample sent out from my 17 Ridgeline which I'll post as soon as I get the results. It's at 30k miles but I've been running Magnatec in it since new.

What did you mean in regard to your comment about the tow package? Did you/have you been towing during this interval?


17 Pilot
 
Originally Posted by OilSwine
Man, I was a little curious about my Cu, but now I don't know whether to feel better for me or feel bad for you. I'd also cut the interval in half, which is what I've been running with M1 EP 0W-20 with some M1 0W-40 mixed in because I have it and to get the viscosity up in the upper end of the range. I've got a sample sent out from my 17 Ridgeline which I'll post as soon as I get the results. It's at 30k miles but I've been running Magnatec in it since new.

What did you mean in regard to your comment about the tow package? Did you/have you been towing during this interval?


17 Pilot


I believe the tow package has a transmission cooler that has a substantial amount of copper in it and it's known to cause higher copper levels than in Pilots without the transmission cooler...or something like that....I believe the engine coolant and transmission fluid both go throw a common cooling unit made from copper - obviously through separated circuits.
 
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Thanks everyone for your input! I'm definitely going to see what happens over the next 10k miles. If things don't start to trend downwards then I'm not going to panic but I know this Pilot is not a longterm keeper which is fine considering I've sold cars for much more trivial reasons.

I have some leftover Ravenol 0W-20 ECS in there now which starts out on the very thin side so my plan is to run that 2500 miles, change the oil to a 0W-30 or 5W-30 and run another 2500 miles, change the oil again and then do a 5K run which will bring me to 30K on car and retest.

According to Mobil's website the Mobil 1 EP started at a 100C viscosity of 8.6 so it seems it thinned out a bit. I already run Mobil 1 AFE 0W-30 in my Lexus and that has a decent viscosity of 10.9 at 100C...better than the Mobil 1 EP 5W-30 at 10.6 and better than PP 5W-30 at 9.8.

Would anyone consider running anything different? I know they are short runs that don't require this level of oil but honestly I don't really care about a few bucks. I already run a bunch of my small engines on PP 5W-30 so I'd be nice to just buy one type of oil for everything. Anyone think this is too thin?
 
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I believe all Pilots (and Ridgelines) have the coolant vs ATF exchanger. The towing equipment includes a supplemental air cooler installed in front of the radiator, which I've added to ours. I don't think that would have any affect on the engine oil.
 
Originally Posted by OilSwine
I believe all Pilots (and Ridgelines) have the coolant vs ATF exchanger. The towing equipment includes a supplemental air cooler installed in front of the radiator, which I've added to ours. I don't think that would have any affect on the engine oil.


Thanks, I couldn't remember if it included an engine oil cooler too or not. I believe you are correct...it's just a transmission/coolant system.
 
Our 2016 Accord with the 2.4 liter Earth Dreams also showed high wear metals at 15 and 25k using M1 0w-20 EP. We cut the next OCI back to 8k in order to align it with Blackstone's universal averages for this engine. At nearly 34k the wear metals fell in line with the universal averages. The short OCIs you are suggesting don't make sense with high quality synthetic oils. Do your flush with the Ravenol for at least 5k and then revert back to the M1 EP for 10k and test again. Who knows, maybe these new Hondas just take a little longer to break in.
 
....and I just noticed their math was wrong....this was a 10,150 mile run....
 
Originally Posted by PWMDMD
....and I just noticed their math was wrong....this was a 10,150 mile run....


So is the total mileage 19,150 or 18,150 ? You are correct. The math is off on the OCI or the total. Not sure which.
 
Originally Posted by VQ35DE
Originally Posted by PWMDMD
....and I just noticed their math was wrong....this was a 10,150 mile run....


So is the total mileage 19,150 or 18,150 ? You are correct. The math is off on the OCI or the total. Not sure which.





This oil went in at 9000 miles and was changed at 19150miles.
 
I think you should cut your OCI in half. I've posted results on my ‘16 pilot using various oils with 3-5K oci and ppm per thousand miles are 5-7 times lower than yours. If you cannot find it let me know and i'll send my results over to you
 
I'm not convinced there isn't something going on in this engine. At the time of this UOA it was the third oil that was in the engine and wear-in metals should be lower. I didn't like how thin the Ravenol ECS id so I replaced it 5W-30 PP today. Plan is to run it for 5K and get another UOA. This will be the fourth oil in this engine and so if wear metals aren't trending down significantly I think something is up...at least this is my plan.

0-->2K miles was FF

2K--->9K was 0W-20 Amsoil SS

9K--->19K was 0W-20 Mobil 1 EP

19K--->20K was 0W-20 Ravenol ECS

20K--->25K will be 5W-30 PP and a new UOA and metals should be much lower. If they are not looks like I get a new car! Woohoo!
 
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Originally Posted by PWMDMD
0-->2K miles was FF

2K--->9K was 0W-20 Amsoil SS

9K--->19K was 0W-20 Mobil 1 EP

19K--->20K was 0W-20 Ravenol ECS

20K--->25K will be 5W-30 PP and a new UOA and metals should be much lower. If they are not looks like I get a new car! Woohoo!
How do you expect to develop any sort of meaningful trend if you change oil brands at every OCI?
 
Originally Posted by Astro_Guy
Originally Posted by PWMDMD
0-->2K miles was FF

2K--->9K was 0W-20 Amsoil SS

9K--->19K was 0W-20 Mobil 1 EP

19K--->20K was 0W-20 Ravenol ECS

20K--->25K will be 5W-30 PP and a new UOA and metals should be much lower. If they are not looks like I get a new car! Woohoo!
How do you expect to develop any sort of meaningful trend if you change oil brands at every OCI?


Do you honestly believe there is any meaningful difference running any of these oils in a Honda V6? I changed it just to flush the engine one more time, have a buttload of 5W-30 PP and I just happened to be at 20K so it's easy to remember 5k OCIs.
 
Originally Posted by PWMDMD
Do you honestly believe there is any meaningful difference running any of these oils in a Honda V6? I changed it just to flush the engine one more time, have a buttload of 5W-30 PP and I just happened to be at 20K so it's easy to remember 5k OCIs.
You are introducing new variables at each OCI. If the wear metals improve dramatically on the next UOA, you won't know if it was due to the oil or the fact that maybe the engine is finally broken in.
 
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