Those with 150,000 miles or more, check in

[Patman]

I just realized that for the first time I can actually contribute to this thread I started almost 16 years ago!

My Civic has 151,000 miles on it, I bought it in 2011 with around 80,000 on it and I've done one year oil changes since I got it (OCIs varied from 3k to over 10k) I started out using Toyota 0w20 for the first couple of years, then M1 0w20 for the few years in the middle and for the past two years I've used Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w20.

 

[Railrust]

Also had a Lexus Ls460 that I purchased used with 72,000 miles...four years later I had 178,000 when I traded it in.

Started consuming oil around 150,000 miles, then it got to the point where I was putting a quart in every 1,200 miles.

I had an interesting oil change history with it...

Started out with 5,000 mile oil changes using Mobil 1 5w20, then decided to extend it a little longer out to 7,500 mile oil changes using Mobil 1, then TGMO. At that point I started consuming a little oil beteeen changes (usually after I hit 3,000), then I'd be adding 2 quarts on the way to 7,500.

Then I decided to lower my intervals back to 5,000 miles. Started using Napa Synthetic. Still it was consuming oil. Then switched to a 5w30 Synthetic (Carquest)...ran that for 5,000 mile intervals. Didn't help. Finally when I reached 170,000 it was getting pretty bad...seemed like I was putting a quart in every other week. The car needed $4,000 in repairs when I traded it in (tires, brakes, passenger side mirror, brake actuator). Best to cut bait when you can, with a high end luxury car.

 

[Ponchinizo]

I feel like I may have posted here before, but I'll go again! 173k miles on an 09 Corolla, 2nd transmission installed 2k miles ago. Burns ~1qt every 2k, had conventional oil from lube shops run for too long until I got it and started learning around 130k miles. HM oils cleared up the smalln leak it had by the tensioner, and it's starting to get a rattle at high rpms that i think is the timing chain guides or tensioner. Planning on a new timing chain around 200k, I want to see how far I can push this vehicle. I'm betting 300k will be feasible, possibly higher. Body and frame are relatively rust free even though it's been parked outside and seen 10 very salty Illinois winters.

 

[El_Schaf]

Been off the board for quite some time now, but was here long enough to discern what I felt really mattered in vehicle lubrication. Felt I could contribute my experience.

Bought my 2008 Pontiac grand prix at the end of 2008 with ~20,000 miles.

Crankcase: For the first three years, I used premium filters and Castrol Edge or M1EP, with an OLM indicated 10~12K mile OCI. Since then, I've used whatever-is-on-sale API oil for the OLM indicated interval and whatever filter suits me (cheapish, whatever is on sale in the perceived-as-better-than-fram-orange category). the engine uses about 1 quart every 3K miles.

The transmission got the ole supertech Dex VI treatment around 125K, back when it was still around $4 or less per quart. Installed a B&M drain plug kit at that time - it remains leak free and was well-worth the effort, as I replace fluid through the drain-and-fill-multiple-times-until-you-basically-have-fresh-fluid procedure.

I ran the supertech until the Transmission pan gasket started leaking around 220K, and I fixed it; I then filled the tranny with Maxlife Dex/Merc (says Dex VI compatible, i see many threads on the interwebs with ominous warnings, though) and a bottle of LG red (allegedly, nothing more than a contaminate for REAL Dex VI). Filters changed, of course, whenever the pan was dropped.

Car has no real issues in the powertrain at just over 293K today.

That said - I'm pretty sure the longevity is a testament to 3800 Series III design, rather than my meticulous care. And i put about 50K highway miles per year on it for the first 3 years.

 

[aquariuscsm]

Originally Posted by El_Schaf
Been off the board for quite some time now, but was here long enough to discern what I felt really mattered in vehicle lubrication. Felt I could contribute my experience.

Bought my 2008 Pontiac grand prix at the end of 2008 with ~20,000 miles.

Crankcase: For the first three years, I used premium filters and Castrol Edge or M1EP, with an OLM indicated 10~12K mile OCI. Since then, I've used whatever-is-on-sale API oil for the OLM indicated interval and whatever filter suits me (cheapish, whatever is on sale in the perceived-as-better-than-fram-orange category). the engine uses about 1 quart every 3K miles.

The transmission got the ole supertech Dex VI treatment around 125K, back when it was still around $4 or less per quart. Installed a B&M drain plug kit at that time - it remains leak free and was well-worth the effort, as I replace fluid through the drain-and-fill-multiple-times-until-you-basically-have-fresh-fluid procedure.

I ran the supertech until the Transmission pan gasket started leaking around 220K, and I fixed it; I then filled the tranny with Maxlife Dex/Merc (says Dex VI compatible, i see many threads on the interwebs with ominous warnings, though) and a bottle of LG red (allegedly, nothing more than a contaminate for REAL Dex VI). Filters changed, of course, whenever the pan was dropped.

Car has no real issues in the powertrain at just over 293K today.

That said - I'm pretty sure the longevity is a testament to 3800 Series III design, rather than my meticulous care. And i put about 50K highway miles per year on it for the first 3 years.



The GM 3800 is probably the best engine ever made.

 

[JLTD]

Originally Posted by aquariuscsm
Originally Posted by El_Schaf
Been off the board for quite some time now, but was here long enough to discern what I felt really mattered in vehicle lubrication. Felt I could contribute my experience.

Bought my 2008 Pontiac grand prix at the end of 2008 with ~20,000 miles.

Crankcase: For the first three years, I used premium filters and Castrol Edge or M1EP, with an OLM indicated 10~12K mile OCI. Since then, I've used whatever-is-on-sale API oil for the OLM indicated interval and whatever filter suits me (cheapish, whatever is on sale in the perceived-as-better-than-fram-orange category). the engine uses about 1 quart every 3K miles.

The transmission got the ole supertech Dex VI treatment around 125K, back when it was still around $4 or less per quart. Installed a B&M drain plug kit at that time - it remains leak free and was well-worth the effort, as I replace fluid through the drain-and-fill-multiple-times-until-you-basically-have-fresh-fluid procedure.

I ran the supertech until the Transmission pan gasket started leaking around 220K, and I fixed it; I then filled the tranny with Maxlife Dex/Merc (says Dex VI compatible, i see many threads on the interwebs with ominous warnings, though) and a bottle of LG red (allegedly, nothing more than a contaminate for REAL Dex VI). Filters changed, of course, whenever the pan was dropped.

Car has no real issues in the powertrain at just over 293K today.

That said - I'm pretty sure the longevity is a testament to 3800 Series III design, rather than my meticulous care. And i put about 50K highway miles per year on it for the first 3 years.



The GM 3800 is probably the best engine ever made.


🔥That's inflammatory. 🔥

 

[jimbrewer]

You go to the trouble of messing with the transmission fluid. Lots of people change the oil two or three times a year and call it good.

That said, I think a lot of it is durable design, happenstance with only average care.

 

[mballard70]

1997 Toyota 4Runner, 299k miles...original engine and trans.. 5k oil changes, burns no oil between changes.
2002 Toyota 4Runner, 199k miles... original engine and trans.. 5k oil changes, burns no oil between changes

Both excellent vehicles that I love dearly.
I so wish Toyota still made the 3rd Gen 4Runners!

 

[Bjornviken]

Toyota Hilux 2004 2.5L D4D turbo 300k+ km. Orginal engine and tramsmission. Even the turbo is orginal. 15k km oci.

 

[rrounds]

2000 Pontiac SSEi sold it with over 250k miles all on M1 5/30 for the first 140k miles and then moved up to M1 10/40 HM.
2006 Honda S2000 ran M1 10/40 HM till the SN came out and switched to 2/3(4 qt's) M1 0/40 and 1/3(2qt's) M1 0/50 racing oil. 160k miles and still going strong.
2013 Jeep JK with 90k miles I run M1 5/30 unless I'm going on a trip to the Mojave in the summer time then its M1 0/40.

2000 SSEi-10k mile oil change
2006 S2000-7.5k mile oil change
2013 Jeep JK 7.5k mile oil change
1999 Ford pickup with 200k + miles and it gets Pennzoil yellow bottle 10/30 HM, change it every two years(around 4 to 5k miles)

Rod

 

[admzn]

1994 Nissan Pathfinder V6. Bought it with ~200k km on it in 2007. And just retired it this year with almost 600k km due to rusty frame. It ran on a diet of sometimes synthetic, sometimes not. I mostly used Nissan or Fram tough guard filters. Usually whatever was on sale went into the sump. When I was super sick for 3 years I just paid quick lube places to do it. I never had one problem with the motor other than some consumption on long trips in hilly areas in the last year. No surprise considering it is a 153hp suv pushing 33" tires. She never let me down.

2004 Golf 2.slow, came into our family in 2010 at 100k km. Only Castrol or Pennzoil 5w40 with most Mann filters, changed every 7-8k km and it just keeps on going, now at 250k km and uses no noticeable amount between changes. Changed the MT gear oil once at 175k. Should probably do it again soon actually. Krown rust proofed yearly so it is spotless for an Ontario car.

2002 Xterra (not the one in sig) I just bought in December 2018 to replace the pathfinder. AT trans with the supercharged engine. I did a few "flush" oil changes at 2k intervals as it sat for 2 years and the oil was so dark and stinky. Now it stays see through on the stick throughout the interval and uses no oil. I usually use Valvoline Syn 5w30 in it with a Nissan filter. It is competing with the Golf for mileage at 252k km lol.

I am a Nissan fan for life but the new ones suck and I won't ever buy one with a cvt.

 

[crazy_raccoon]

2010 Lexus IS-F with 152,600 miles. Just picked it up a few months ago with around 151,000 miles. Previous owner took decent car if the car but with his highway commutes did a toll on the front end paint. As far as engine stuff, no problem at all and has only seen regular Mobil 1 5W-30. Based on previous service history, oil a d filter was changed out roughly every 5k to 6k miles. The last few years the oil filter he used was the Mobil 1 453 but I recently swapped it out with a Toyota YZZA4 oil filter. Will do a UOA in this OCI next year as I don't drive a lot and do 75% city short trip driving.

 

[jagdriver727]

My '02 Ranger (3.0L Vulcan V6, 5R44E automatic, 2WD) is at 243,600 as of this afternoon. It'll have 244k by Sunday night. About 80% highway miles.
For engine oil, I've used various 10W-30 synthetics at 7.5k intervals since new, recently started doing 10k. Using whatever $4 filters I can buy in bulk. Last several changes have been with Harvest King synthetic and Bosch "Premium" filters.
I've serviced the transmission every 30k with Mercon V, drop pan, change filter.
Changed the differential gear oil at 150k with 80W-90, can't remember which brand. I'll do it again at 300k.
Brake pads every now and again, rotors as needed. I've replaced the front wheel bearings once and re-packed them whenever the rotors come off.
Changed the air filter every 30k or so.
I replaced the ball joints for the first time at 239,000 miles.
Spark plugs every 100k, PCV valve every 60k.
Change (drain & fill) coolant every 60k. I replaced the radiator at 237k due to a plastic tank cracking.
I replaced the heater core at 229k, A/C clutch at 214k. 3 or 4 sets of tires and 5 or 6 batteries.

It has never left me stranded. It looks, runs, and drives like new and I look forward to driving it every morning.

 

[Clayslayer]

2002 VW Jetta TDI. Hit 408,800 on the way to work this morning. Original everything (almost).
Oil changed once a year regardless of mileage with Rotalla T6, Mobil TDT, Amsoil DEO or Amsoil AFL.
Amsoil DEO the most but to be honest I can't tell a lick of difference between any of them.
Wix or MANN filters at every service.
Turbo and nozzles replaced right around 275K (Titan 520s). Nozzles again right at 400K (Bosio 1019 DLC). It is chipped out hardcore.
3" turbo back stainless exhaust.
One clutch. One set of brakes. One alternator. Replaced springs, shocks, and struts @ 300K.
Few other nit noid things here and there. Headlight housings replaced with glass (VW owners know why). 3 windshields.
Shift knob. Worn out shift linkage and bushings replaced with short throw shifter (best. mod. ever.)

Burns about a quart a year, if that. Still gets right at 40mpg.

 

[WMW0505]

2001 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L AW-4 auto trans. Sold it with 200k on the clock with original engine and trans. Ran Mobil Super 10W-30 and a Napa Gold 1515 every 5k miles. No oil usage between changes.

 

[GeorgeMP]

1968 Dodge Coronet 440. Bought new in 68, I acquired it in 79. Have it to this day. 345,000 miles on Castrol GTX conventional, 10w-40 and Purolator oil filter up until 93.
Since 93 using Castrol GTX straight 40 and still using Purolator oil filter. Oil changed every 2000 miles.

1991 Ford Crown Victoria P72 police package car. Bought it at auction in 97. Currently have 210,000 miles. Castrol 10w-40 conventional, Purolator filter. Oil changed every 2000 miles.

 

[super20dan]

my 2003 kia sorento has made it to 160k. this car received dealer only pampering all its former life. it even got the rip off fuel injection services and brake fluid flushes every 30k. every service in the manual was done on time. my brother spent a small fortune to maintain this car . I would never have bought it otherwise with its 3.5 mitshitbishi engine. this engine is not known for long life

 

[rummy]

08 Highlander. 2GR-FE

180,000 miles
Original Engine, Transmission, water pump, thermostat, alternator and spark plugs. Haven't changed anything but brake pads, lights, battery and filters.

plan on changing original plugs at 200,000 miles

 

[Snagglefoot]

2008 Chev Suburban 3/4 ton 4x4, CIA special in dark blue. Ordered it new from a spec sheet but they wouldn't let me have bullet proof rear glass.

Presently 180,000 miles on steady diet of 5w30 synthetic at 7,000 miles OCi's. Replaced the front hubs, front door latches, rear passenger door latch, transmission cooler lines, spark plugs and a few air filters. Blew out a rear axle seal that needed replacing. All accessories original. Fairly conscientious on transfer case fluid changes. Changed rear diff fluid twice and had two transmission flushes. Knock wood.

 

[tobylester]

I have a 2005 Toyota Tacoma 4 cylinder. I have around 175,000 on it. 2-3 battery changes, wiper blades & tires is the only thing that isn't completely original.

The first few years I changed my own or oil and I would typically use whatever synthetic was on sale. Since that time I moved to a place where I could not change my own oil and I change it at whatever quickserve Place doesn't have a long line. For four or five years firestone change my oil and I would usually use the synthetic blend. Oil change intervals are usually 5 or 6000 miles. For the last seven or eight years I've used either synthetic or conventional oil depending upon how my bank account looks.

It burns zero oil. I've never checked the dipstick and it be anything other than on the full mark.