How many miles a year do you put on?
Which additive for best MPG?
- Thread starter cwilliamsws6
- Start date
- Status
Idk what sidewall says but the sticker inside my door says 30psi for all 4 tires.
And I got the car with 193,000 miles 3 years ago, so 210k-193 / 3 , equals to about 5,600 per year.
And I got the car with 193,000 miles 3 years ago, so 210k-193 / 3 , equals to about 5,600 per year.
Originally Posted by cwilliamsws6
And I got the car with 193,000 miles 3 years ago, so 210k-193 / 3 , equals to about 5,600 per year.
As others already mentioned, your biggest potential for MPG improvement is to adjust your driving patterns, and remove any extra weight from the vehicle. The fact that you're running a power hungry sound system probably doesn't help MPG either.
As far as additives go, even if you did find some miracle concoction that could MAYBE improve your fuel economy by 2%, we are talking roughly $15-$20 in total annual fuel cost savings, given your annual mileage. Hardly worth the trouble, IMO, considering what it would cost you to purchase said concoction.
And I got the car with 193,000 miles 3 years ago, so 210k-193 / 3 , equals to about 5,600 per year.
As others already mentioned, your biggest potential for MPG improvement is to adjust your driving patterns, and remove any extra weight from the vehicle. The fact that you're running a power hungry sound system probably doesn't help MPG either.
As far as additives go, even if you did find some miracle concoction that could MAYBE improve your fuel economy by 2%, we are talking roughly $15-$20 in total annual fuel cost savings, given your annual mileage. Hardly worth the trouble, IMO, considering what it would cost you to purchase said concoction.
Any additive would cost way more than any savings you'd see at the pump.
Originally Posted by Imp4
Which additive for best MPG??? None.
Correct. If there was one, their stock price would be headed for the moon and there would be several threads here about it.
Using a good synthetic oil will likely help.
As mentioned above, tire pressure and foot discipline will get you moving towards your goal. Weight of vehicle also matters so the competition sound system is costing you mpg.
It's all about choices.
Which additive for best MPG??? None.
Correct. If there was one, their stock price would be headed for the moon and there would be several threads here about it.
Using a good synthetic oil will likely help.
As mentioned above, tire pressure and foot discipline will get you moving towards your goal. Weight of vehicle also matters so the competition sound system is costing you mpg.
It's all about choices.
During an oil change replace one of your expensive quarts of oil with a quart of ($3.93) MMO. Keep your speed 65 or less and reap the benefits!
You need to see real time data while driving. I suspect you need new oxygen sensors, go oem brand(denso,ngk?) if you change them. Where the oxygen sensors ever changed? You can clean the maf sensor. Does the car hesitate or other drive ability problems?
Originally Posted by bullwinkle
Inflate tires to max sidewall, or as close to it as you can handle (on our "wonderful " OH roads), try to stay under 70-it'll make a difference. Thinner synthetic oil (no thinner than your engine is rated for), proper alignment, a clean air filter, new O2 sensors, no dragging brakes. All will make a difference, but the loose nut behind the wheel makes the most difference!
That's horrible advice. Max pressure will make the car ride like rocks. Bouncing around a lot isn't going to help tire life either.
Too might weight in the car also affects gas mileage. Plus a crazy sound system also uses more power so it's a greater load on the engine to keep the power up. Dump the sounds system, believe it or not, but no one else wants to listen to your music.
Inflate tires to max sidewall, or as close to it as you can handle (on our "wonderful " OH roads), try to stay under 70-it'll make a difference. Thinner synthetic oil (no thinner than your engine is rated for), proper alignment, a clean air filter, new O2 sensors, no dragging brakes. All will make a difference, but the loose nut behind the wheel makes the most difference!
That's horrible advice. Max pressure will make the car ride like rocks. Bouncing around a lot isn't going to help tire life either.
Too might weight in the car also affects gas mileage. Plus a crazy sound system also uses more power so it's a greater load on the engine to keep the power up. Dump the sounds system, believe it or not, but no one else wants to listen to your music.
By the way, what the heck is a "competition" sound system? What are you "competing" for?
Another side effect of dropping your speed from 80 to 65 (or 60 even) is your blood pressure comes down proportionately, which adds years to your life. It's amazing how much better your driving experience becomes once you get out of the mindset that you have to be the fastest thing on the road.
That being said, don't be obnoxious on the slow side either.
Another side effect of dropping your speed from 80 to 65 (or 60 even) is your blood pressure comes down proportionately, which adds years to your life. It's amazing how much better your driving experience becomes once you get out of the mindset that you have to be the fastest thing on the road.
That being said, don't be obnoxious on the slow side either.
I found my blood pressure went down when I started driving 10+ over. Otherwise every time I was in Mass I thought someone was out to kill me. People would just cut me off if I did the limit in the right lane. Or I was constantly dealing with on/off traffic. Life got easier when I aimed to be in one of the higher speed percentiles.
But that could be just a regional thing.
But that could be just a regional thing.
I would bet there's other maintenance due along with new plugs and air filter. Check your manual and see if the throttle body or mass airflow sensor should be cleaned periodically -- this will have an impact on your fuel efficiency and overall running condition. There are some great suggestions in this thread. The biggest fuel economy benefits will come from these:
-- keep up on all recommended maintenance. Keep your vehicle in good running condition.
-- extra air in the tires. Do NOT go all the way to maximum pressure on the sidewall, this compromises traction and safety unless you actually need the max pressure to carry a heavy load.
-- anticipate stops, use less brakes.
-- accelerate gradually
-- don't go above 65mph. True for most vehicles, depends on aerodynamics and gearing.
-- keep up on all recommended maintenance. Keep your vehicle in good running condition.
-- extra air in the tires. Do NOT go all the way to maximum pressure on the sidewall, this compromises traction and safety unless you actually need the max pressure to carry a heavy load.
-- anticipate stops, use less brakes.
-- accelerate gradually
-- don't go above 65mph. True for most vehicles, depends on aerodynamics and gearing.
Everyone else pretty much nailed it, but one thing I didn't notice mentioned was tire size. Are the tires larger than stock but with the stock speedo gear still? If so then your real mileage is higher than the odometer indicates, and if so then you definitely shouldn't increase the pressure above the door sticker, maybe just that high because of the 300lb audio system, and to some extend the larger tires will be heavier and reduce fuel economy.
You can also get a little better fuel economy by removing a roof rack if you have one, by using low rolling resistance touring tires, and lowering the vehicle. Most things mentioned in this topic by others and myself will, one by one, only shave a fraction of a MPG off for each but it adds up.
As several people stated, it's driving style more than anything. Personally I find a sane middle ground there, life is too short to be constantly focused on fuel efficiency while driving instead of just staying at the same pace as traffic, which is much safer than going faster OR slower than those around you.
You can also get a little better fuel economy by removing a roof rack if you have one, by using low rolling resistance touring tires, and lowering the vehicle. Most things mentioned in this topic by others and myself will, one by one, only shave a fraction of a MPG off for each but it adds up.
As several people stated, it's driving style more than anything. Personally I find a sane middle ground there, life is too short to be constantly focused on fuel efficiency while driving instead of just staying at the same pace as traffic, which is much safer than going faster OR slower than those around you.
Last edited:
Originally Posted by supton
I found my blood pressure went down when I started driving 10+ over. Otherwise every time I was in Mass I thought someone was out to kill me. People would just cut me off if I did the limit in the right lane. Or I was constantly dealing with on/off traffic. Life got easier when I aimed to be in one of the higher speed percentiles.
But that could be just a regional thing.
You should always just keep up with the flow of traffic and move over if someone wants to go faster. It's actually pretty safe when all cars on the road are doing the same speed. That's why in a car race, they're all doing 150-200mph but they're all basically doing the same speed, have someone do 50 and someone else do 150, or 50 and 80 then it becomes pretty dangerous. It's the variation in speed that's dangerous, not speed.
I found my blood pressure went down when I started driving 10+ over. Otherwise every time I was in Mass I thought someone was out to kill me. People would just cut me off if I did the limit in the right lane. Or I was constantly dealing with on/off traffic. Life got easier when I aimed to be in one of the higher speed percentiles.
But that could be just a regional thing.
You should always just keep up with the flow of traffic and move over if someone wants to go faster. It's actually pretty safe when all cars on the road are doing the same speed. That's why in a car race, they're all doing 150-200mph but they're all basically doing the same speed, have someone do 50 and someone else do 150, or 50 and 80 then it becomes pretty dangerous. It's the variation in speed that's dangerous, not speed.
The speed limit on I-71 between much of CMH to CVG is 70 MPH. Please don't go 60 MPH and force 300 people do a lane from the bad advise given here.
Or run the back roads, which I do a lot-you'll see me on US42 between Columbus & Cincinnati quite a bit. It takes a little longer, but I'm not really in a hurry!
Drive 60 MPH on the Interstate, seriously, and stay on the right lane.
Originally Posted by bullwinkle
Or run the back roads, which I do a lot-you'll see me on US42 between Columbus & Cincinnati quite a bit. It takes a little longer, but I'm not really in a hurry!
I'll take long runs on back roads any day over stop n go driving. Besides idling using up fuel, I just hate sitting. Stop n go is horrible on your ride...I save my errands up into one outing if it can be helped.
Or run the back roads, which I do a lot-you'll see me on US42 between Columbus & Cincinnati quite a bit. It takes a little longer, but I'm not really in a hurry!
I'll take long runs on back roads any day over stop n go driving. Besides idling using up fuel, I just hate sitting. Stop n go is horrible on your ride...I save my errands up into one outing if it can be helped.
Last edited:
Its a long shot..but one or more of your calipers could be hanging..
The single most important thing most could do to improve MPG is checking the air pressure in all tires. Tires should inflated to max pressure for the tire and then slowly reduce the number until it's not too harsh a ride. I generally stay around 40 psi for good wear and best mileage.
After that it is a mixed bag of taking everything out of your car that isn't necessary (weight), slowing down (wind resistance), well maintained, etc...
After that it is a mixed bag of taking everything out of your car that isn't necessary (weight), slowing down (wind resistance), well maintained, etc...
- Status
