Mechanic says it would be too much money. Is that a good thing?

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Does that mean a mechanic is honest when they seem to want to keep things simple? I want to repower my old boat by putting a new engine and outdrive in it with a newer updated one, but he says that would be too much money/work I guess.

He's like we can still fix this thing without jumping in the deep end. My thinking is that I want a piece of mind, not just fix one thing then let it be good for a year or two then you're in it again fixing something else. Sounds to me he just wants the labor time instead of a drop in ready to go engine.
 
What kind of boat & engine?

Most people with pleasure boats do not wear out the engine and the outdrive will keep going a long long time as long as it has good gear oil and you do not wack something huge with a SS prop.

Now a guy with an offshore fishing boat who does charters, sure.

What is the major problem with now?

A new engine in an old hull is not worth a lot.
 
He could be honest, but it could also be that he is not up to do that job, perhaps lack of skill, equipment or tools only he knows for sure, but you must have some inklings.
 
Well both engine and outdrive are 30 years old and I don't plan on selling the boat for a while.
 
Put a new sterndrive in a 30 year old boat!!!!!! Yikes. If the transom and stringers in the engine compartment are still good, then doable.

Somethings like that can be better if not disturbed.

You can do a used oil analysis and see engine condition and drive condition. You can replace some things like exhaust manifolds, water pumps, hoses, seals, alternator, starter and trim pump. The old one are probably higher quality than new. You can also get your cores freshened up.
 
Depends what work is involved, it may need modifications to fit a newer power plant which he may not want to do. Nothing on boats can be done cheaply. What issues make you want to upgrade? You could always just find a newer 350 with lower hours to swap in or a newer fuel/ignition system if that is what is giving you issues.
 
An engine would be about $4000 and they would need to swap some parts. Plus labor.

The outdrive would be at least double the engine. Not knowing the drive model, the prices are all over the place. New vs reman. Plus labor.

I would get the engine repaired. Maybe send carbs to Treadwell in NY for a professional rebuild.
 
I think it's the pds bearings are out. I bought the boat a year ago and like the second time out I noticed a good bit of water in the bilge and then found when I got back to the dock that the stainless clamp fell off the u joint bellows. So now a year later I guess the drive shaft bearings finally seized up and you have to pull the whole motor out to get at them. I'm worried that damage on the outdrive may have occurred also. So I'd rather get a rebuilt drive for 3500 bucks and a long block motor and start fresh since it all has to come out anyways.
 
I also want to get rid of the Holley 4 barrel carb that everyone seems to complain about and put a eldelbrock on it.
 
My grandpa, who owned sailboats, yachts, trawlers, cabin cruisers, etc, from before I was born until he passed away, gave me this one piece of advice: "Never own a boat. It's just a hole in the water that you throw money into."
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That being said, if you have a competent mechanic they can inspect most of it, and lubricant drain & fill should let you know fairly quickly if there was damage once it's back in the water. If you've got it on land, you should be able to check everything out.

Heck, if you're swapping carburetion, why not stick an EZ-EFI or similar self-tuning EFI swap onto it? It's cake to do.
 
There is a certain reasonable expectation on your part of wanting to be frugal and judicious with your money.
There is also the point that you bought a 30 year old boat, what did you think was going to happen???

A boat is a hole in the water that you throw your money into.
Pick your poison. Inexpensive up front and back at the repair in a year or two.... Or all in up front and additional peace of mind...

Your choice.

Did I mention that a boat is a hole in the water that you throw your money into??
 
I really really recommend the Holley on a boat. This is not a car, they run under full load all the time, and Holley does an excellent job with that. YOU DO NOT want it to run lean. Holley has some huge accelerator pumps if you need it for hole shots.

Also everything needs to be explosion proof, a marine carb often has more seals. Do not lose the explosion proof air cleaner.
 
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I would post your drive model & year over in BOATERED.COM and ask how much has to come out. Older models had the bearing in the bell housing but with new models you can pull the outdrive and replace it. A clamp should have never come off that u-joint bellows. Sounds like a hack worked on it. A boat will sink if the bellows comes off or is torn. On a Merc I think the bellows is glued on also (in addition to the clamp).

Be aware that when you replace the engine you start to run into things that need to be dealt with. For example some engines will not have the opening for a mechanical fuel pump. So you need to install a marine electric fuel pump and some control that allow the fuel pump to run during engine cranking but stop should engine stall. And the control needs to be marine quality as far as no spark and corrosion resistant.

I would get two estimates and just have the bearings replaced.
 
Originally Posted by Kira
I'm guessing the OP got this boat for near nothing.

A free boat is just like getting a free horse. They cost as much to own as a nice boat or horse.
 
I cant speak to the guys honesty but if he makes you a low offer on the boat as is run like Hades. This is the oldest trick in the book by scumbags for getting vehicles from owners for next to nothing.
 
+1 GM Goodrich 350's are a dime a dozen in good condition and can be adapted to that application with an oil pump relocation kit and a few other things.
 
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