Crank and then No Crank

[Gebo]

2003 Mazda Protege5 with 131K. Installed new Mazda Battery last Tuesday. Got in it to go to work on Friday and turned key and nothing. Immediately turned key again and it started. Hmmm...

Next, leaving work and it would not start. Got jumped and started immediately. Jumper car wasn't even running. Hmmm...

Started down the hill from work and turned on my lights as it was raining and everything stopped. Wipers, engine, etc. Dead in the water. 4Way flashers would not come on.

Same guy who jumped me in the parking lot, jumped me again. I left everything off and drove about 6 miles home.

Battery checks out with charge and CCA. Gauge says alternator is ok. Jumper guy unhooked negative cable on battery and engine continued to run.

Once I got home and in my car port, I turned headlights on, radio on, wipers on and engine kept running. Turned it off and cranked it and it fired right up.

An hour later, everything works fine.

Any suggestions?

 

[MrMoody]

Corroded/dirty/loose connections/grounds. Remove, clean and tighten battery terminals (check for loose posts in the battery as well). Do the same where the positive cable connects to the starter and the negative to the engine block.

 

[Warstud]

Originally Posted by Gebo
Installed new Mazda Battery last Tuesday.


Is this problem the reason for replacing the battery?

 

[KrisZ]

Most likely starter coil. Pay attention to the sounds, usually with a bad coil you will hear a click and no crank.
The coil can be changed, but getting a whole new starter is probably better.

 

[tcp71]

With the electrical glitches beyond the starting problem, I would suspect corrosion on the wiring, or loose connections. If it started after replacing the battery, start with a very close inspection of the terminal clamps at the battery.

 

[Gebo]

Originally Posted by Warstud
Originally Posted by Gebo
Installed new Mazda Battery last Tuesday.


Is this problem the reason for replacing the battery?



No. Advance Auto had replaced the battery with the wrong size and it couldn't be clamped down. They installed a 34 and it takes a 35.

I just replaced it to get her the right sized battery.

This is not my car....long story.

 

[Gebo]

Originally Posted by KrisZ
Most likely starter coil. Pay attention to the sounds, usually with a bad coil you will hear a click and no crank.
The coil can be changed, but getting a whole new starter is probably better.



No click. Quiet as a mouse.

 

[Gebo]

Mr Moody and tcp71:

I'm leaning with you. I'll start there.

You know, I used some of this CRC Battery Cleaner and did not wire brush it off. I betcha that is my problem. I thought it was some of that red spray (Battery Terminal Protector) you use to protect the terminals.

I sprayed it on the new naked positive and negative terminals before putting the leads on. I just read the instructions on the can and it says to wire brush it off after spraying it on. What a dummy!!!!!

I got my fingers crossed.

 

[Dave9]

Originally Posted by Gebo
Jumper guy unhooked negative cable on battery and engine continued to run.


Don't let anyone do that, vehicles modern enough to have electronics (30+ years) can be damaged from alternator voltage spikes without a battery to buffer that.

 

[eljefino]

The other ends of the battery terminals are suspect. Unbolt them from the starter/ fuse box/ engine block and clean that mess up.

 

[mk378]

When connecting a top post battery make sure the terminals are all the way down against the top of the battery. Loosen the nut fully and spread the terminal open, then put it on and tighten. There should be some of the lead battery post showing above the top of the terminal.