Alternatives to antiseize for rust prone fasteners?

[oldsohc]

I typically apply antiseize to all suspension bolts during reassembly. However I find the A/S on the exposed threads tends, to dry out exposing the them to the elements ie. salt. Typically I have this issue with sway bar links as there is usually a good length of exposed thread on the links after installing the nut that tightens down the donut bushings. When they need to be removed again, the nuts break loose but then gets hung up on the rust unless I wire wheel the threads before attempting removal.
I am wondering if something like Fluid Film would provide antiseize properties on the engaged portions of the thread that are under load? Since it is not in a heated environment like the engine/exhaust.

Is there an alternative to antiseize in this type of application that
1) prevents seizing of the engaged threads and
2) provides corrosion protection to the rest of the exposed threads/bolt.

 

[bdcardinal]

ARP Ultra-Torque?

 

[LeakySeals]

RP-342.

 

[Yah-Tah-Hey]

I apply Eastwood Heavy Duty Antirust Aerosol to those areas and it lasts almost indefinitely. Goes on as a thin wax like product and penetrates very small spaces. Easy to remove with brake cleaner or mineral spirits. Flying debris has a tendency to abrade it somewhat so I touch some areas up every spring. You might like it. Comes in black and amber. Amber doesn't have to be shaken since it has no color added.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

I just use regular motor oil or ATF

 

[MasterSolenoid]

I live in the Rust Belt.
How about Cosmoline ?

LeakySeals photo looks good / Yah-Tah-Hey idea sounds like Cosmoline.

Use Antiseize on the bolts where it contacts the nut, then spray with Cosmoline.

I'm a big fan of Fluid Film for Undercoating, but I overdue it and have an oily mess.
Cosmoline is the - Gentlemen's Undercoating

Last Week I used some Cosmoline on the Diff Cover / should hold up just fine.

My Brake Lines are covered with Antiseize mixed with Fluid Film / 17 years and no rust / but again, very messy.

Edit: I just checked and I was also using RP 342 / good stuff

 

[billt460]

Just thinking out loud here. But has anyone tried, or heard of spraying melted paraffin or beeswax out of a spray gun? It would solidify quickly after hitting a cold undercarriage, suspension parts and bolts. And it would sure stay put until the weather heated up. Naturally it wouldn't hold up long on hot oil pans and such. But I doubt many of the other anti rust products would either.

 

[LeakySeals]

Yes RP-342 is military grade Cosmoline. I used to use Fluid Film. Never using oil based anything on my undercarriage again. Made a HUGE mess I'm still trying to get rid of.

 

[Lubener]

Grease.

 

[ls1mike]

Termalene

We use it on Submarines.

 

[Mainia]

FLUID FILM!!!!!!!

https://www.fluid-film.com/

.

 

[Anon9283]

Originally Posted by LeakySeals
Yes RP-342 is military grade Cosmoline. I used to use Fluid Film. Never using oil based anything on my undercarriage again. Made a HUGE mess I'm still trying to get rid of.


I love/hate Cosmoline. My first job in HS my boss bought a couple hundred drums of WWII assorted aircraft hardware etc and we spent a couple years casually sorting it all. I'm sure he still has a lot left. Anything that was covered in Cosmoline was still brand new after 60+ years.
I've used CRC Marine Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor and that seems to work real well also

 

[Railrust]

CRC Marine Heavy Duty Corrosion inhibitor (basically Cosmoline/RP-342, except cheaper).

Fluid Film is nice but it doesn't last, it'll wash off, the Cosmoline is stronger and not as messy. I use Fluid Film twice a year, I'll be switching to the CRC next year.

 

[LeakySeals]

Here's the SDS for both

 

[Dave9]

I lather a little silicone brake grease on the threads.

Granted, if I'm taking the bolts off again, I expect that it's because I'm replacing the link and new links often come with a new bolt and nut, though possibly only one but the top end usually isn't as rusted.

Worst case, I often get out a small angle grinder if there's room to get it in there, or a reciprocating saw if the link is just an (inexpensive) long bolt that can be cut in the middle.

 

[oldsohc]

How easy is it to remove cosmoline a couple years after it has been applied? Will brake clean dissolve it without scrubbing? How about presoaking with a degreaser like Super Clean followed by a pressure rinse?

Also, does it have any creeping action while it's still wet? Or does it dry too fast?

 

[Railrust]

Originally Posted by LeakySeals
Here's the SDS for both

I'm looking at that thinking...I see some similarities, some not, with a lot of petroleum and hydrocarbon. So I'm assuming both use pretroliums to thin wax and make it sprayable.

 

[littleant]

I use fluid film. But be careful. Not all parts on a vehicle are oil resistant. Can swell plastic and affect non oil resistant rubber

 

[LeakySeals]

Originally Posted by Boosted240
How easy is it to remove cosmoline a couple years after it has been applied? Will brake clean dissolve it without scrubbing? How about presoaking with a degreaser like Super Clean followed by a pressure rinse?

Also, does it have any creeping action while it's still wet? Or does it dry too fast?


I'm familiar with RP - 342 so I can say it's not a lubricant but yes it does creep. Takes a few hours to dry. A full day to harden up. 2 coats is best. I've been able to dissolve it with stuff like WD-40 and carb cleaner. But that was just a test to make sure I could get connectors off. Turns out I don't even need to do that. Once it's hard the connectors just snap right off . If you turn a nut with coated threads there is some resistance. But less than it would be with rust.

Also it's the best thing I've ever used for battery terminals

 

[LeakySeals]

It's the polar opposite of grease and oil which attracts dirt. This beads up and repels dirt, sand, salt and rinses clean.