Anyone used valvoline restore?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Apr 1, 2019
Messages
561
Location
Ohio
My Cummins dealer has it in stock. Yes it's expensive but if it would actually free the rings in my 09 altima oil burner then it's worth it. I've searched the site without finding any real testimony.
 
I'd give it a shot. This oil was designed to clean. I believe it's 50% POE.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I've tried it once in my ‘02 Camry's 2AZ-FE. Not a lot of difference after a 5K-mile OCI—I'm still burning a quart every 1200 miles, or so. My engine has 286K on it, though, and I'm taking several mechanics' advice to just keep it topped off, and keep on driving.
 
Anyone see an issue running it in an engine that calls for 5-30? I've been running PP 10-30 for a few oil changes because meijer was closing it out at $6 a jug so I bought all they had. Unfortunately the PP did little to slow down consumption, 3/4 of a quart every thousand or so miles. The car is nothing if not consistent since I bought it new.
 
Originally Posted by khittner
I've tried it once in my ‘02 Camry's 2AZ-FE. Not a lot of difference after a 5K-mile OCI—I'm still burning a quart every 1200 miles, or so. My engine has 286K on it, though, and I'm taking several mechanics' advice to just keep it topped off, and keep on driving.

Good to know and pretty much where I'm at but only 112k. Cars never give me an ounce of engine issues outside of oil consumption.
 
Originally Posted by D1dad
Anyone see an issue running it in an engine that calls for 5-30? I've been running PP 10-30 for a few oil changes because meijer was closing it out at $6 a jug so I bought all they had. Unfortunately the PP did little to slow down consumption, 3/4 of a quart every thousand or so miles. The car is nothing if not consistent since I bought it new.

I would use it in a vehicle that calls for 5W30.
 
If it's tired worn rings there's not much you can do short of replacing them but if it's stuck rings (heavy carbon deposits keep the ring from standing out, staying stuck in the groove) you can try freeing them by using an engine flush or fuel additive designed to clean deposits. You could also be consuming oil via worn valve stem seals.

Other than that I'd use the highest viscosity, synthetic HiMi (for the addtl SCA's) oil i could, with the highest flash point to keep loss to a minimum... and keep topping off....
 
Last edited:
You need to do a compression test to see if you can figure out which set of rings have the issue. The compression rings or oil control ring. Worn valve stem seals show up as oil burning at startup after sitting for several hours.

A fuel additive may help with compression rings. And an oil additive with the oil control rings.
 
Originally Posted by D1dad
Originally Posted by khittner
I've tried it once in my ‘02 Camry's 2AZ-FE. Not a lot of difference after a 5K-mile OCI—I'm still burning a quart every 1200 miles, or so. My engine has 286K on it, though, and I'm taking several mechanics' advice to just keep it topped off, and keep on driving.

Good to know and pretty much where I'm at but only 112k. Cars never give me an ounce of engine issues outside of oil consumption.


Hmm. Is yours a 2AZ-FE? If so, at that mileage, I think I'd take the big gulp and do the prescribed piston & ring replacement, if you like the car. Mine has never been apart, aside from a valve cover gasket replacement several years ago, and the mechanic said it still had 95+% of its OE compression after a leak down test.
 
If the rings are worn, this oil won't help. If they are stuck or dirty, it will.
 
Originally Posted by Donald
You need to do a compression test to see if you can figure out which set of rings have the issue. The compression rings or oil control ring. Worn valve stem seals show up as oil burning at startup after sitting for several hours.

A fuel additive may help with compression rings. And an oil additive with the oil control rings.

Cold engine yes but idling and off throttle braking can result in increased manifold pressure which can draw oil past worn valve stem seals.

You could compression test the cylinders but you know it's not gonna have great compression since it's consuming oil. Unless you're willing to plunk down the cash, in the event of really bad readings, to replace the rings, I'm not sure the ROI is favorable on a compression test.

Symptoms of bad valve stem seals

Originally Posted by buster
If the rings are worn, this oil won't help. If they are stuck or dirty, it will.

+1
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by D1dad
Anyone see an issue running it in an engine that calls for 5-30? I've been running PP 10-30 for a few oil changes because meijer was closing it out at $6 a jug so I bought all they had. Unfortunately the PP did little to slow down consumption, 3/4 of a quart every thousand or so miles. The car is nothing if not consistent since I bought it new.


You bring up several issues...

First, if it's been burning 3/4 every thousand since new - your rings aren't stuck, this is just an oil burner. I doubt you'll see any change. Loose rings from the factory? Bad valve guide clearance from day one? Some engines just use oil, and it appears that this is one of them. If you want the oil burning to stop, you're going to need mechanical repair, new rings at least.

As far as using a 10W30 in a 5W30 engine, no worries. It won't hurt a thing. Even in Ohio.

Personally, I would give it a shot. Who knows?

If it doesn't work, keep looking for oil on sale and keep topping off. I wouldn't invest thousands in mechanical repair for a 10 year old car that could be totaled or traded in tomorrow. It's worth the same on the used market whether it burns oil or not. So, I would find oil on sale, keep it topped off, and live with it as is...
 
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
Originally Posted by Donald
You need to do a compression test to see if you can figure out which set of rings have the issue. The compression rings or oil control ring. Worn valve stem seals show up as oil burning at startup after sitting for several hours.

A fuel additive may help with compression rings. And an oil additive with the oil control rings.

Cold engine yes but idling and off throttle braking can result in increased manifold pressure which can draw oil past worn valve stem seals.

You could compression test the cylinders but you know it's not gonna have great compression since it's consuming oil. Unless you're willing to plunk down the cash, in the event of really bad readings, to replace the rings, I'm not sure the ROI is favorable on a compression test.

Symptoms of bad valve stem seals

Originally Posted by buster
If the rings are worn, this oil won't help. If they are stuck or dirty, it will.

+1


I believe you can have pretty good compression and still burn oil. If all that wrong is the oil control ring (gunked up), you will burn oil but still have pretty good compression.
 
Originally Posted by Donald
I believe you can have pretty good compression and still burn oil. If all that wrong is the oil control ring (gunked up), you will burn oil but still have pretty good compression.

Ok yeah, I suppose that is possible. Good point..ðŸ‘
 
If you did the Kreen soak as prescribed (1 oz in each cylinder, sit overnight), a pint in the crankcase, and the rest in the gas tank and you didn't see any improvement, then Restore isn't going to fix your problem. If you didn't do the Kreen soak as they recommend, I'd either do it again or try Restore. But Kreen is much cheaper and much stronger for a quicker response.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top