mevotech control arms? anybody with experience?

[jdawg13]

i recently got myself a used up somewhat rusty 2005 subaru forester for cheap as a project car to use as a recreational vehicle/beater.
so, i don't mind going cheap on some parts. i am a young technician at a dealership too so i have access to the shop to work on it myself.

my question is, how do mevotech control arms hold up?
im not concerned about the bushings and ball joints, but the actual control arm itself.
i dont mind using a press and replacing the parts on it, but is the actual metal and welding decent quality?

$60/side vs $300+/side oem

 

[Propflux01]

China quality. The brand name is just that..a name. That part prolly has 20 other 'brand' names to go with it. They will work, but don't expect OEM quality, or longevity.

 

[Rand]

on a 2005 I'd go for it.. no need to drop that much money(oem) in a 15 year old car.

 

[jdawg13]

Rand,
Do you have any past experience with mevotech control arms? My only concern is other parts compatibility, like if i can replace the bushings and stuff with other brand stuff. the "skeleton" of the control arm is pretty much what I am really concerned about

 

[The Critic]

It depends how long you plan to keep the car for. On the few occasions that we have installed Mevotech control arms, the bushings had become completely dry-rotted and split within 30K miles.

If Subaru sells bushings for your application, I would seriously consider that option.

 

[ctechbob]

First hand experience with them in my 2008 TL. In the case of the Honda parts, the compliance bushing was WAY too soft and I replaced them with OEM parts. After that, no more problems. The metal has been fine and the smaller bushings seem to be ok. The OEM parts pressed right in, so the machining was good to go on that area.

I have MOOG arms on my Accord and those have been just fine. Their bushings were stiffer from the go.

 

[nobb]

Originally Posted by The Critic
It depends how long you plan to keep the car for. On the few occasions that we have installed Mevotech control arms, the bushings had become completely dry-rotted and split within 30K miles.


This mirrors my experience with their end links. The blue rubber was no good after 2 years. Control arms are such a PITA to replace, I would use a better quality product and hopefully never have to touch it again.

 

[Jimzz]

Metal itself is fine. The joints/bushings may be an issue on their cheaper line. But the ones you are looking at are their Supreme line. So those seem a little better than their cheaper ones.

So I don't see an issue using them in this case.

 

[Trav]

My first hand experience with them is not good, I did a pair for someone a few years ago and the car was badly out of alignment it was scrubbing the tire and could not be aligned, one arm was slightly twisted.
Back then Moog arms were okay (not the R line) but today I would much rather put a couple of good used ones on with new bushings.

 

[Railrust]

I've used them, if you're not concerned with the bushings or ball joints, you shouldn't have a problem...the metal should hold up fine.

 

[WyrTwister]

Originally Posted by Trav
My first hand experience with them is not good, I did a pair for someone a few years ago and the car was badly out of alignment it was scrubbing the tire and could not be aligned, one arm was slightly twisted.
Back then Moog arms were okay (not the R line) but today I would much rather put a couple of good used ones on with new bushings.


That is what I was wondering . Why the OP does not put new parts in the original control arm ? Maybe rust has done it in ? Do not know , Thank God I do not live in the rust / salt belt .

 

[eljefino]

I had one on a saturn, it was twitchy. The steering was non-linear. I could turn right, then pass a certain load point, and it would start turning further right. I think the bushing was squishing inappropriately. Still checked out good with a pry bar. Replaced it, problem went away.

That said I've run plenty of other ebay grade front end/ brake parts on beaters and been happy.

 

[JTK]

It various so much car to car in terms of where aftermarket parts come from and the quality they are. It's a tough call. If you were flipping the car or only wanted a year or two out of it, go cheap. If you can wait on mail order parts and do the work yourself, mail-order all the way.

 

[Trav]

Plenty of good used ones that vintage up here, may are OE replacements done not long ago along with CV axles, springs and struts. Throw a couple of bushings and a joint in and its good to go.

 

[jdawg13]

thanks guys, i think im gonna go with it.
if i were to get the arms and replace literally all the bushings and ball joints on it from the get go, it would still cut the costs a bit over 2x of buying all oem.

but i dont find removing and installing control arms to be hard at all so ill see how long the original mevotech bushings and stuff last!

and yeah the original arms on it right now are a bit rusty, these models had an issue of the hangers breaking when rusted enough. the last thing i want when im out camping in the woods or desert is for them to break