Heatshrink Butt Connectors vs Other Options

[The Critic]

For numerous reasons, I am being told that I need to stop using solder (and heatshrink) for automotive wiring repairs.

One of my buddies highly recommended the Ancor brand heat shrink butt connectors. Supposedly it is a normal butt connector but also contains an adhesive goo on each end to weatherproof the connection.

http://www.ancorproducts.com/en/309025

I was also advised to stay away from the heatshrink butt connectors that have a low-temp solder in them.

Does anyone have any other recommendations? I am looking for a variety pack if at all possible.

Thanks.

 

[RooflessVW]

Those are quality splices.

 

[Donald]

Ancor makes some of the best connectors out there. In the boating world they are #1. In some cases the connections might be underwater in the bilge.

 

[nthach]

3M is always my pick for wire connectors whenever possible.

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Scotchlok-Butt-Connector-Heatshrink-Seamless-25-bottle-MH18BCX-built-in-wire-stop-for-correct-positioning/?N=5002385+3294756614&preselect=8710679+8710920+8711734+8717971+8731280&rt=rud

 

[Trav]

Look at E-VOLT and Molex connectors also, for some stuff where you have to cut into the wiring eg replacing a blown cooling fan resistor with a higher watt high quality air cooled unit I install a 10/12 Ga Deutsch connector with closed barrel pins, they are really good.

I cover any wires that run near high heat with silicone fiberglass sheathing it really protects the wire from getting brittle from heat.
The solder/crimp with heat shrink connectors and glue are perfectly fine for many applications but nothing high amp. Higher amps if shorted can melt the solder but stuff like radio, indicator lights basically anything with less than a 10A fuse is not an issue. The fuse will pop first (try it).

https://www.wiringdepot.com/store/p/3621-Heat-Shrink-Crimp-Solder-Seal-Butt-Connectors.aspx

https://evoltelectrical.com/collect...570-piece-heat-shrink-wire-connector-kit

 

[George7941]

I use separate butt connectors and heat shrink, not both combined together in one unit as the Ancor linked above
https://www.delcity.net/catalogdetails?item=98082505
https://www.delcity.net/catalogdetails?item=222005
DelCity prices are reasonable.

I have avoided using the combination connectors, like the Ancor, on the theory that the very high crimping forces could damage the soft heatshrink.

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted by Donald
Ancor makes some of the best connectors out there. In the boating world they are #1. In some cases the connections might be underwater in the bilge.


I often use the Ancor connectors and seal them with liquid tape. Ancor also makes some "double crimp" connectors that give you strain relief also but you need a fancy Ancor crimper for them.

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted by George7941
I use separate butt connectors and heat shrink, not both combined together in one unit as the Ancor linked above
https://www.delcity.net/catalogdetails?item=98082505
https://www.delcity.net/catalogdetails?item=222005
DelCity prices are reasonable.

I have avoided using the combination connectors, like the Ancor, on the theory that the very high crimping forces could damage the soft heatshrink.


No issues whatsoever with the correct crimper, not all crimpers play well with insulated connectors even though they claim to be for made for them.

 

[MrMoody]

Originally Posted by Trav
No issues whatsoever with the correct crimper, not all crimpers play well with insulated connectors even though they claim to be for made for them.

Post an example of a good one?

 

[Trav]

This is the one I use most and also the cheapest, I have a few of them from Knipex, Klein and a few others but this one that looks like a refugee from a $5 Walmart set (it is good quality) does no damage on the heat shrink and makes a nice tight connection.
I also have a ratcheting type that does a great job but it is too hard to find the sweet spot on the connector, its like doing it blind.

https://www.amazon.com/97-32-240-Crimping-Oval-Crimp/dp/B01DJWVY64

I also use this, it works nice.

https://www.amazon.com/Knipex-12621...r&qid=1567644771&s=hi&sr=1-1

 

[clinebarger]

For inline splicing of small gauge wires.......Nothing wrong at all with solder!!! Manufactures still do it to this day!

Soldering a Terminal at a Connector or having a inline splice near a connector is a big no no!!

For large gauge/high amp inline splicing.....I prefer non-insulated butt connectors that have the small hole in the center, Heat just the center after crimping & feed in a small amount of solder.....You don't want the solder to wick down the strands of the wire. Seal it up with some glue lined heat shrink.

 

[George7941]

Originally Posted by clinebarger
For large gauge/high amp inline splicing.....I prefer non-insulated butt connectors that have the small hole in the center, Heat just the center after crimping & feed in a small amount of solder.....You don't want the solder to wick down the strands of the wire. Seal it up with some glue lined heat shrink.

Soldering old wires can be problematic because the surfaces of the copper strands have oxidised and are difficult to clean up because it is stranded. Solder will not flow properly. I crimp them and trust that the high crimping forces will cut through the surface layer of copper oxide and contact gets made to the fresh copper underneath the surface layer.

 

[Deontologist]

Just use Posi-taps.

 

[tom slick]

A ratcheting crimper is the way to go.

Economy model
Klein crimper

Pro model

Press master crimper

 

[doitmyself]

Delete, never mind.

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted by tom slick
A ratcheting crimper is the way to go.

Pro model

Press master crimper


Its like doing it blind sometimes to find the middle of the connector unless you have it right in front of you. A ratcheting unit is really overkill for connectors under 10ga.

 

[tom slick]

The pliers type are good enough if you are only crimping a couple of wires once in awhile. If you need consistency or if you are doing a lot of crimping the ratchet style are superior for any size wire.

 

[Trav]

I wasn't talking about daily use with a lot of crimps, most people use these kinds of things occasionally. In tight places the ratchet crimper can many times be difficult to get oriented on the connector. In commercial production line use hydraulic units do the work so the ratchet type is in no way a superior tool to all tools that perform that function.

There is no such thing as the best tool for all jobs. All have their limitations as does the ratchet type, it is in no way close never mind superior to a hydraulic crimper on large battery cables for example or did you not say..

Quote
if you are doing a lot of crimping the ratchet style are superior for any size wire.

 

[HangFire]

For numerous reasons, I am being told that I need to stop using solder (and heatshrink) for automotive wiring repairs.

One of my buddies highly recommended the Ancor brand heat shrink butt connectors. Supposedly it is a normal butt connector but also contains an adhesive goo on each end to weatherproof the connection.

http://www.ancorproducts.com/en/309025

I was also advised to stay away from the heatshrink butt connectors that have a low-temp solder in them.

Does anyone have any other recommendations? I am looking for a variety pack if at all possible.

Thanks.

It's been 2 years, I'm curious what you ended up buying.

 

[The Critic]

It's been 2 years, I'm curious what you ended up buying.

Never did. I rarely do wiring repairs that cannot be resolved with a complete harness or connector shell replacement.