swivel adapter/socket for changing spark plugs?

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NissanMaxima

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Hi all:
Quick question for the board. I've changed spark plugs in the past on Toyotas and am getting ready to do the job on my Maxima. Is there any advantage of using one of these swivel spark plug sockets I've seen or as long as I've got a straight shot for access, just a regular spark plug socket and extension should be fine right? I'll be using a torque wrench and I'm also thinking it might be better to avoid any swivel heads if possible. Thanks
 
If you have a straight shot at the plugs w/o a swivel socket there is no point in using it. And yes it's best to use a torque wrench w/o a swivel.
 
Without seeing how the access to your plugs looks, no one can say whether a swivel-adapter is necessary.

I see it has the VQ35 engine in it. If it's mounted transversely (3 cylinders facing front, 3 facing rear) vs longitudinal (each cylinder bank faces the sides of the car) ? If it's transverse, you will probably have some finagling to get the 'back' 3 plugs. I've got the VQ35HR but it's mounted longitudinally and plug access is relatively easy. No swivel-adapter is needed, just extensions.
 
What year is your Maxima?
smile.gif


The only Maxima I've worked on is a 4th gen, which has cutouts in the intake and it makes spark plugs easy to do with no special swivel tools
happy2.gif


The newer ones require you to pull the intake. So you might as well do the fuel injectors and valve cover gaskets, too
mad.gif
 
VQ30DE hallstevenson.

Slacktide_bitog...1995 so right with you on the 4th gen. From the videos I've seen, the front 3 are easy and with some work, the rear 3 aren't too bad either.
 
Cool
thumbsup2.gif


The back three are just as easy as the front due to the cutouts. I remember doing it with the same extension I used for the front row.
 
Here's a trick I used to do to eliminate risk of cross threading a plug when initially starting it in the hole. Use a length of automotive fuel line hose (low pressure kind) that fits snug over the insulator on the plugs. So there the plug is on the end of the fuel hose. Insert into the plug tunnel in the valve cover and thread it in. Will never force a cross threading because the hose doesn't grip the plug tight enough. Usually get multiple turns before remove hose and finish with socket.
 
The problem with the socket and extension is that the extension can slip off the socket after tightening the plug if the socket is tight on the plug. I've had even locking extensions slip off if the rubber insert was tight. If you use a magnetic socket, that shouldn't be a problem.
 
I use this. It's great. Spark Plug tool

It's perfect for those vertical spark plugs in the 4cyl Toyota engines.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by KJSmith
Originally Posted by user52165
KJSmith said:
The swivel helps to prevent cracking the plugs.


??

How's that?


Eliminates any side force.



??

How's that?

This is even more vague than your first response.
Click to expand...
 
Originally Posted by billt460
It's best not to use any type of swivel or universal, unless you absolutely have to.



+1 This
 
Originally Posted by user52165
Originally Posted by KJSmith
Originally Posted by user52165
KJSmith said:
The swivel helps to prevent cracking the plugs.


??

How's that?


Eliminates any side force.



??

How's that?

This is even more vague than your first response.


The reason they make the spark plug removal tools with a swivel is to eliminate any chance of side force on the spark plug ceramic..
The swivel moves instead of the socket.

When you have a long extension on a socket, it doesn't take much side to side movement on the ratchet end to exert force on the spark plug.
Its usually in the description pf the tool.
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by KJSmith
Originally Posted by user52165
Originally Posted by KJSmith
Originally Posted by user52165
KJSmith said:
The swivel helps to prevent cracking the plugs.


??

How's that?


Eliminates any side force.



??

How's that?

This is even more vague than your first response.


The reason they make the spark plug removal tools with a swivel is to eliminate any chance of side force on the spark plug ceramic..
The swivel moves instead of the socket.

When you have a long extension on a socket, it doesn't take much side to side movement on the ratchet end to exert force on the spark plug.
Its usually in the description pf the tool.



This reason they are made is to make it easier to access difficult spark plugs especially in V6, V8, V12 engines. The widespread use of COP - coil over plugs - has helped in this regard. 4 cylinder COP are usually quite easy. But there are plenty of difficult both transverse, and longitudinal V types where a swivel is helpful.

As stated earlier,it is best to not use a swivel unless necessary. A good socket with a rubber insert on a straight extension is best. You are more likely to exert side force with a wobble or swivel than without.

One has to resort to creative procedures on occasion - thru the wheel well, mirrors, flex heads, combinations of adapters, etc.

The worst cases require removal of AC compressors, starters, PS pumps, alternators, manifolds, etc. Even lifting of the engine.

Now if you are novice or newbie or just plain careless, all bets are off.

With experience, you gain a "feel" when the socket is firmly on the plug without exerting force on the ceramic.
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
One final comment.

It is essential to use a socket designed for spark plugs. For example, a generic 5/8" long socket MAY work, but will not work well. A spark plug socket, no matter which size, will be the correct length, with a rubber, or better yet, a serrated plastic insert, to hold the plug firmly.

Don't use power tools for this process, either air or battery. Be sure the socket is "bottomed out".

A blast of compressed air before removal is good practice.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by user52165
One final comment.

It is essential to use a socket designed for spark plugs. For example, a generic 5/8" long socket MAY work, but will not work well. A spark plug socket, no matter which size, will be the correct length, with a rubber, or better yet, a serrated plastic insert, to hold the plug firmly.

Don't use power tools for this process, either air or battery. Be sure the socket is "bottomed out".

A blast of compressed air before removal is good practice.



Delete *read post as a question*
 
Last edited:
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