Is FRAM good to go now?

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Good observation OP. The end caps aren't cardboard though.

Look at the pictures and judge for yourself, or buy and cut your own filters then you will soon decide what you like and don't like.

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Originally Posted by tundraotto
Doesn't seem much has changed....still crap...why is this not common knowledge here?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iTNJLEV8CG8



Are you mad that we don't collectively hate Fram filters or something? Just find a filter you DO like and use that. Let everyone else keep buying these "crap" Fram filters then.
 
There are numerous Fram cut open filters on here... Look at them...

And those filters look really good overall. I cut upon a orange Fram 7317 .. it was just fine. Many other Fram orange filters have looked quite good on here in the past 5 years.
 
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Originally Posted by bbhero
There are numerous Fram cut open filters on here... Look at them...

And those filters look really good overall. I cut upon a orange Fram 7317 .. it was just fine. Many other Fram orange filters have looked quite good on here in the past 5 years.


Some of my equipment uses the fram ph7575 industrial oil filter and it is built like a tank go check one out It can cross to a ph3614 and wix 51348.
 
Originally Posted by A310
This Fram Extra Guard has 13,000 miles on it and is changed out at 15,000 miles on my Triton V10. On my 5.9 Cummins I switched from Amsoil to Fram Ultra and run these to 30,000 miles. Great filters.:)

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Sure would like to see a cut and post on that one.
 
Originally Posted by Reddy45
They were never as bad as they seemed. They were just the most commonly sold filter so naturally you would see more reports of bad QC.


^^Yup^^
 
Not to cause a stir, I've used all three tiers of Fram before, but...

The Ultra is like a crazy fanboy type following on here now. People new ask about filters and immediately get bombarded with "ULTRA!"

all three tiers are fine.

I'm not one to keep the same filter on more than once, some are, if I'm going under a vehicle to drain the oil, I might as well change the filter as well.

If you look at OEM spec filters, most of the time the efficiency is equal to or less than the Extra Guard (95%) and for your usual 5k recommended OCI, itll be fine.

If you're really worried about the other 5%, or your OEM recommends 10k ocis, run a tough guard.

I've yet to see how a difference between 99%(TG) vs 99+% (Ultra) is worth the extra 2-3$, especially when I've seen Tough Guards on here ran longer than 10k and still look good.


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It really depends on how much crud your engine makes, and how long you want to run it. If you want to run 5K or less, just about anything will be fine (although some Puro/MCs can't seem to handle it)-if you have a clean engine & want to go over 10K, then RP, Stratapore, and Ultra are the way to go. And of the higher end synthetic media filters-guess which one is the cheapest!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-PACK-FRAM-Ultra-Synthetic-Oil-Filter-Top-of-the-Line-FRAMs-Best-XG8A/161962774844?epid=169088159&hash=item25b5bbd13c:g:mG4AAOSwGotWs7GP is a good example, which I've bought in the past.
 
My uncle has a 2000 Jeep Cherokee with the 4.0 that he uses an orange Fram (PH16) on along with synthetic 10w30 oil. I think he changes his oil and filter every 3-5K. The last time I drove it, it had 289,000 miles and was still running great, that was 8 or 9 months ago. I'd say it probably has over 300,000 on it now. The picture of the filter and oil filter adapter is from his other Cherokee, it only has like 60,000 miles (not sure exactly, but I know it's low mileage)... but it cracked a head (0331 casting) or rather it had a cracked head when he bought it. The cooling system was clogged up with a bunch of what we assume was stop leak. The radiator was really clogged up and it kept overheating, the head, along with the entire cooling system minus the heater core was replaced and it's ran fine since. The heater core was flushed multiple times and seems to be okay for now. The oil filter adapter was leaking on his lower mileage XJ the last time I was there, so I helped him change the O-rings in it. We bought the o-ring kit from Autozone but it did not have the correct o-rings in it, one of them was the wrong size IIRC. We returned that kit and bought the OEM o-ring kit at the dealer for ~$18. The engine has a bunch of that gunky looking varnish in it and has pretty low oil pressure but seems to run fine otherwise. Orange Fram filters may not be "the best" but they seem to get the job done just fine. I think the TG and XG filters are excellent filters. I have ran a TG7317 on our 2011 Yamaha Rhino since new and it now has over 3,500 miles with no issues, all the filters I have cut open have looked good.

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I was left with a bad taste in my mouth about 8 years ago from an orange can FRAM on my '99 TJ 4.0...my dad and I changed the oil and the engine was making awful start-up rattle. Immediately replaced it with a Mopar MO-090 and it was back to normal.

With that said, today, I gave Fram another try and installed an Ultra after seeing all of the convincing info on here about those. May run it for 2 OCIs and cut it open afterwards. Unsure if I want to make that a regular thing or just go back to the FL400s that I was using before and never gave me any issues and that I replace every OCI.
 
Fram has been good to go as far back as I can remember, and I go back further than most on this site.
 
Browse through the sub-forum and check out all the cut and post threads. Judge for yourself.
 
We were over-due for one of these threads. Next week we are going to discuss whether or not the oil you buy at Walmart is watered down....
 
Originally Posted by chainblu
We were over-due for one of these threads. Next week we are going to discuss whether or not the oil you buy at Walmart is watered down....


LOL isn't it the truth!
 
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