Difference between quickie lube and DIY

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GON

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Recently purchased a 2003 Ford F350 V10 2v and changed the oil yesterday. I was amazed how small the quickie lube filter was, compared to the Ultra Fram I installed.

Could not help but think the quickie lube the previous owner used likely used the very cheapest of filter.

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It's not the size of the filter but what's inside that counts. Regardless, I wouldn't be too happy finding a $1.50 quicky lube oil filter on my truck either. Personally, I go for OEM on my V10.

[Linked Image from fototime.com]
 
Originally Posted by atikovi
. Personally, I go for OEM on my V10.


Uh, oh. Here comes the FL-820 bashers....
 
While most of us on here don't like buying cheap oil filters, including me, I bet that oil filter did just fine. Is that engine known to blow spark plugs?
 
Originally Posted by atikovi
It's not the size of the filter but what's inside that counts. Regardless, I wouldn't be too happy finding a $1.50 quicky lube oil filter on my truck either. Personally, I go for OEM on my V10.

[Linked Image from fototime.com]

From what we've had on here from the FL820S filters-the quickie lube filter would be better!
crazy.gif
I'm actually a big fan of the Ultra, older CQ Blue, M1, and RP filters for these, the MC ones belong in the scrap pile.
 
Downsizing of filters with application consolidation is now SOP in the quick lube (some indie shops) business. It's designed to save money and jobber tier filters are what's used. That said, with all the folks using them, while many bitog reader might not approve, doubtful it produces significant issues. With some kind of regular maintenance, even with the downsized filters used unlikely the holding capacity approached. As noted, using the spec size filter is one of the advantages of diy.
 
Originally Posted by bullwinkle
From what we've had on here from the FL820S filters-the quickie lube filter would be better!
crazy.gif
I'm actually a big fan of the Ultra, older CQ Blue, M1, and RP filters for these, the MC ones belong in the scrap pile.


Why then would Ford use that filter on new cars and risk millions in warranty claims if it wasn't any good?
 
Originally Posted by atikovi
Originally Posted by bullwinkle
From what we've had on here from the FL820S filters-the quickie lube filter would be better!
crazy.gif
I'm actually a big fan of the Ultra, older CQ Blue, M1, and RP filters for these, the MC ones belong in the scrap pile.


Why then would Ford use that filter on new cars and risk millions in warranty claims if it wasn't any good?
They don't use the Motorcraft on new cars (they're Champ made); and, as millions of we Ford drivers & owners know, Ford sacrifices quality to their bottom line every day. Ask anyone who has a PowerShift automatic transmission how Ford builds & stands behind their vehicles. Other MC filters are reasonably adequate, the FL820S is risky tear-prone Purolator in it's worst form. The OP's Performax is the FL500S size, which will work, I've used a couple older PSL22500s myself on my 4.6.
 
You got the right one. You have nice choices of air filter too, even the Ultra.

https://www.fram.com/parts-search/?...qQBqARjYA2AHQAOADKlFASzAALQfyGicAKhABdIA

My last new to me vehicle was serviced by the owner at a not cheap independent shop. When I looked at the air filter it was a Napa Pro Select with one corner folded in leaving a gap where unfiltered air would come in. Thankfully it had just been put on. Very easy one to install too right up front and no obstructions.

Ford does install thousands of white 820s filters every day at the dealers nationwide. I see the problems shown, but I would use the new ones verified by US CAR 36. I have owned Fords and don't think they cheap out at all on parts, rather the opposite. Every shuttle van I see is a Ford and they are running day and night.
 
That is an FL500S sized filter, and is a common replacement for the FL820S in most quickie lube shops. As said, a consolidation of filter numbers for less stock helps them make more money.

Will it be the death of the engine, no. Does it make many members of BITOG nervous, yes.


Every time I change the filter on my '02 F150 5.4 2v I debate going to the smaller filter, the stock size is just a little awkward to get out and I make a mess with it.
Maybe once my filter stash is gone I will finally swap to the smaller one, but that will not be for 2-3 more years, and I will probably forget by then that I want a smaller filter.

Originally Posted by Kruse
Originally Posted by atikovi
. Personally, I go for OEM on my V10.

Uh, oh. Here comes the FL-820 bashers....

Yup.

Originally Posted by atikovi
It's not the size of the filter but what's inside that counts. Regardless, I wouldn't be too happy finding a $1.50 quicky lube oil filter on my truck either. Personally, I go for OEM on my V10.

Funny thing is, that filter internally is pretty much identical to what is in yours, just a little smaller. Both are Purolator made filters with very similar construction. Biggest difference is nitrile ADV in the cheapie one vs silicone in the Motorcraft.

What I find funny is nobody is mentioning the $7.90/qt oil (as well as a 10w-30 in Utah).
 
Originally Posted by atikovi
It's not the size of the filter but what's inside that counts. Regardless, I wouldn't be too happy finding a $1.50 quicky lube oil filter on my truck either. Personally, I go for OEM on my V10.

[Linked Image from fototime.com]



This.

The oem Ford FL820S is all we ever use on her Mustang. I prefer oem over all else.
 
I don't know atikovi, my Ford C-Max has not been doing too well with OEM Motorcraft parts.

Sway bar end-links failed at 19K, Moog aftermarket replacements are doing fine 60K later. Three failed OEM fuel injectors, first of which at 48K, the replaced injector and another one both failed in 60K-70K range. Had one Motorcraft OEM plug fail at 59K despite the change interval being 100K.
 
We all can agree that the quick oil changes places use cheap bulk oil and filters. You can buy better. But doubtful if the engine knows the difference. In your modern car like a Honda or Toyota or Ford, the engine is going fine when it hits the boneyard.

Now in a diesel tractor trailer that costs hundreds of thousands and you want to go a million miles, the engines do wear out.
 
I go to car shows occasionally and might see a 60's GTO or Mustang with a $50K+ nut and bolt restoration. I mean, they have the original FORD script or GM clamps on the hoses, that's how precise it's done. Then I see the Interstate battery or Cooper tires and I just about want to hurl. I put an OEM part in a couple thousand dollar van, they can't bother to in a $50,000 restoration?
 
Originally Posted by bullwinkle
They don't use the Motorcraft on new cars (they're Champ made)....

I know you said "new" but Ford dealers put these on cars in for service every day. Ford will stand behind their dealers when they use Motorcraft parts too, will they not ?
 
Why do you think a larger filter is better ? Some "larger" filters are just bigger cans and the filter medium inside is small in proportion.
 
Originally Posted by hallstevenson
Why do you think a larger filter is better ? Some "larger" filters are just bigger cans and the filter medium inside is small in proportion.


In this country, everything bigger, is considered better. Cars. Houses. Steaks. Shoes.
 
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