Jeep Brake Issue

[Delta]

Vehicle in question is our 2012 Jeep Liberty Sport 4wd.

Replaced front pads and rotors yesterday due to some sticking pads due to rust buildup. The passenger side was the worst, but the bracket cleaned up and the pads move freely in the hardware. The piston on the caliper moved in, albeit a little bit hard, but nothing felt like it was binding. After the job was done on the test drive the passenger side was definitely locked up, not too hard as I could still drive the vehicle, but it smoked a little bit. Jacked it up and it was definitely not moving. Do you guys feel this is a caliper issue? It is the original with 91K on it. I did completely flush the whole brake system before hand and it seemed to pull fluid fine, so I assume the brake hose is ok? Kinda at a loss here, don't want to slap a caliper on it if I don't need to, but there was a fair amount of surface rust on the piston.

 

[demarpaint]

I had a similar issue with my 08 Liberty. Everything was properly lubed. The piston in the caliper felt a little harder than normal to compress. I spoke to Trav about it and he said they use some kind of plastic composite for the pistons, and they swell as they age and end up causing the issue you're describing. So yes I'd think your caliper is on its way out. If you replace the calipers change the brake hoses as well. HTH

Edit to add: They were worse after driving in traffic and the brakes got hot. When they cooled off they were OK, for a while. They will get worse if left alone.

 

[Delta]

Was kinda thinking that... I'd love to replace the brake hose, but it is a NY vehicle and it looks super sketchy to get out.

I DID forget to mention the brake pedal is spongy as heck, brakes fine, but a little odd. No change after flushing the fluid.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted by Delta
Was kinda thinking that... I'd love to replace the brake hose, but it is a NY vehicle and it looks super sketchy to get out.

I DID forget to mention the brake pedal is spongy as heck, brakes fine, but a little odd. No change after flushing the fluid.

Spongy is usually air in the system. I didn't have that problem. I'm also in NY, if you decide to replace the hoses, soak the fittings with your favorite penetrating oil a day or so before doing the job, if possible.

IIRC Rock Auto sells new calipers for them, they were cheaper than re-manufactured at the time I bought mine. That's if you decide not to rebuild yours.

 

[supton]

I wouldn't think a hose would be bad yet; if it was me I'd do the caliper and hope for the best.

 

[Chris142]

If there was any corrosion or dirt in the caliper you pushed the piston into it when you pushed it back in and now it's stuck.

 

[Delta]

Originally Posted by Chris142
If there was any corrosion or dirt in the caliper you pushed the piston into it when you pushed it back in and now it's stuck.


That makes sense. I was already frustrated because I had an issue with the famous capped lug nuts and just wanted to get it done. One of those helping someone out cases and it bit me. Shame on me for being a dolt

 

[SwampSurvivor]

For some reason I constantly deal with stuck calipers on my pickup and Jeep. Always the piston.

I'm at the point that if I can't push in the piston(s) by hand, it's getting a new caliper.

What's happening is the hydraulics can push the pistons out, but they aren't coming in just by the brake pad lightly pressing in and they're dragging. Then everything heats up, the pistons get bigger with heat, then they seize up in the bore and they never release.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted by supton
I wouldn't think a hose would be bad yet; if it was me I'd do the caliper and hope for the best.

As I mentioned earlier I think his problem is with the caliper itself, common with the vehicle in question. Since it is approaching 8 years old, and hoses are cheap enough I'd change it out as PM. Overkill perhaps. If the hose is corroded enough as the OP alluded to that taking it apart is a concern, odds are its probably a good idea to change them.

 

[Chris142]

You can easily check if its the hose. Open the bleeder screw. If fluid squirts out or the wheel gets easy to turn its the hose. I have never seen a brake hose cause a caliper to drag in my 35 years of wrenching. We have all heard the story about it though.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted by Chris142
You can easily check if its the hose. Open the bleeder screw. If fluid squirts out or the wheel gets easy to turn its the hose. I have never seen a brake hose cause a caliper to drag in my 35 years of wrenching. We have all heard the story about it though.

You wouldn't replace an 8 year old hose with a caliper replacement? I'm just curious, because that's how I was taught. I could see if the caliper was a few years old, then leave the hose, 8 years old in a NY car?

 

[Delta]

Update: New (reman) caliper did the trick. Upon further investigation the piston on the old one was indeed nasty and corroded. I did not replace the rubber brake line, but it is due for inspection soon so I'll have them do it. I don't seem to have much luck with corrosion on this thing. Thanks for all the replies!

 

[andyd]

I have had a brake hose fail internally a flap was acting as a check valve to keep wheel cyl from releasing. It was a 28 yr old '58 Bug. When I did a 95% replacement of the Rat,s brakes I replaced Hoses simply because they looked so terrible.