Pennzoil platinum 5W30 2008 Toyota Sienna 230,000 miles

GYA

Joined
Nov 22, 2009
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Wisconsin
Blackstone did the analysis. 7000 miles on the oil with .25 quart make up.The two elevated metals are aluminum at 9. Average is 4. Iron at 33. Average is 8. Everything else is normal. Any thoughts? It's a high mileage van that remains a strong runner.

5B406F08-6C5D-4FCF-8B04-7AC83EC62A5B.jpeg
 
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Supertech dino.
smile.gif


Is there a thread on which oils have repeatedly reduced iron and aluminum on this forum? I don't recall any but it would be nice.


That said your van running a good oil as is with the PP. I highly doubt an oil from a different bottle will solve the problem. be careful with changing viscosity since that engine is a
VVT engine. The oil viscosity has a role to play on how it works. 5W-30 is a good middle of the road oil.
 
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Every engine wears differently. Blk St only gets a very small representative sample size. It's not a true and accurate reading. That is what i have learned on BITOG. I'm not an expert, maybe Buster can explain it better. If I'm wrong, I'm wrong....


Race engines are physically measured for a reason. UOA s are good for trend analysis etc.....I' have used Blackstone Labs and they are awesome.So, Im not knocking them. A chemist told me that anything over a 100 ppm is a red flag. Every engine/driver/environment are different though
 
Originally Posted by Slick17601
Looks good, does it have piston slap when it is cold?

Yes it does.
 
Originally Posted by danez_yoda
Supertech dino.
smile.gif


Is there a thread on which oils have repeatedly reduced iron and aluminum on this forum? I don't recall any but it would be nice.


That said your van running a good oil as is with the PP. I highly doubt an oil from a different bottle will solve the problem. be careful with changing viscosity since that engine is a
VVT engine. The oil viscosity has a role to play on how it works. 5W-30 is a good middle of the road oil.









Pennzoil "conventional" is your iron answer.
 
Is this the very first run with the PP 5W30? If so the results are usually a more accurate representation of how an oil did after the second run because any residual oil from a prior brand are out of the engine. If not, check again after another 5K run and see if anything changes.
 
This is a sample size of ONE. Let's not jump to conclusions.

I concur with Blackstone and would recommend you take another UOA in 5k miles. See if there is an upward trend, downward trend, or little change.

Overall, the Blackstone averages are reasonably accurate. What you don't directly get from Blackstone is the understanding of normal variation. But I assure all they have PLENTY of data on this engine series; this is a widely used engine in many Toyota platforms.
 
at 230,000 miles why waste your money on a UOA. Unless you are willing to do something dramatic and spend $$$$ on this engine why bother, just drive it until it dies. Seriously, what are you going to do if it continues to give high iron, other than changing the oil more often to get the numbers down UOA are sort of useless other than to look for coolant etc.
 
Originally Posted by Spector
at 230,000 miles why waste your money on a UOA. Unless you are willing to do something dramatic and spend $$$$ on this engine why bother, just drive it until it dies. Seriously, what are you going to do if it continues to give high iron, other than changing the oil more often to get the numbers down UOA are sort of useless other than to look for coolant etc.



yup. it could go another 100k miles with 100ppm/5k on iron and not fail, all depends on where the iron is coming from. we all imagine its the engine block, it could be something that is rusted and slowly shedding iron particles as well.
 
dnewton is right, you need to do a 2nd or even a third UOA to establish a trend. Good thing is you don't need to do an expensive UOA.

Just looking at this one UOA stand alone, I'd try running a thicker oil with a higher AW add pk. Like a 10w30 (higher 150c kv) HiMi. I'm not sure backing off the miles would get the wear metals down to where you want them. Then again it could be a case where no oil is able to accomplish that, given the age of the vehicle. But I'd try a HiMi next if it were me... both QS and Chevron make a syn blend HiMi that are worth a try.

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The UOA was only $28. Not a big cost. I bought the vehicle on the wholesale market for $2000 w/212,000 miles. It's AWD and the body is excellent. Colorado vehicle so the underside is clean. I use it to tow a 16ft airstream Bambi. Mostly it's for short trips to work and back. About one mile each way. I average 8000 miles a year. Everything works. Just posting and testing for my interest and your viewing pleasure. If the motor pops then it'll be on the salvage market.
 
Originally Posted by GYA
The UOA was only $28. Not a big cost. I bought the vehicle on the wholesale market for $2000 w/212,000 miles. It's AWD and the body is excellent. Colorado vehicle so the underside is clean. I use it to tow a 16ft airstream Bambi. Mostly it's for short trips to work and back. About one mile each way. I average 8000 miles a year. Everything works. Just posting and testing for my interest and your viewing pleasure. If the motor pops then it'll be on the salvage market.

Sounds like you have the right attitudeðŸ‘.. you could try switching up lubes but at $2000 but meh...it is what it is, right?
 
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Originally Posted by GYA
The UOA was only $28. Not a big cost. I bought the vehicle on the wholesale market for $2000 w/212,000 miles. It's AWD and the body is excellent. Colorado vehicle so the underside is clean. I use it to tow a 16ft airstream Bambi. Mostly it's for short trips to work and back. About one mile each way. I average 8000 miles a year. Everything works. Just posting and testing for my interest and your viewing pleasure. If the motor pops then it'll be on the salvage market.



Switch to a "conventional" 30 grade for annual OCI's the iron will trend down.
 
Originally Posted by GYA
The UOA was only $28. Not a big cost. I bought the vehicle on the wholesale market for $2000 w/212,000 miles. It's AWD and the body is excellent. Colorado vehicle so the underside is clean. I use it to tow a 16ft airstream Bambi. Mostly it's for short trips to work and back. About one mile each way. I average 8000 miles a year. Everything works. Just posting and testing for my interest and your viewing pleasure. If the motor pops th it'll be on the salvage market.

I would guess the short trips and towing could be the higher wear metals. .
 
I don't see a huge reason to change what you're doing, but if I did get a burr under my saddle to try something else at that mileage, I'd give Valvoline's MaxLife syn blend or Pennzoil conventional HM a run or two.
 
Originally Posted by GYA
The UOA was only $28. Not a big cost. I bought the vehicle on the wholesale market for $2000 w/212,000 miles. It's AWD and the body is excellent. Colorado vehicle so the underside is clean. I use it to tow a 16ft airstream Bambi. Mostly it's for short trips to work and back. About one mile each way. I average 8000 miles a year. Everything works. Just posting and testing for my interest and your viewing pleasure. If the motor pops then it'll be on the salvage market.


I got my Wix UOA kits from Rockauto and they were $9 and change each oh and they don't charge me extra for a TBN.
 
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Just a little update. The Sienna is still going strong. No additional UOA. It did need a radiator because the transmission line fitting corroded away from the rad. $80 in the aftermarket. I’m shooting for 300,000 miles. At this rate that’ll be 5-6 more years. I did start using super tech synthetic.
 
Just a little update. The Sienna is still going strong. No additional UOA. It did need a radiator because the transmission line fitting corroded away from the rad. $80 in the aftermarket. I’m shooting for 300,000 miles. At this rate that’ll be 5-6 more years. I did start using super tech synthetic.
Thanks for the update GYA and welcome to BITOG!
 
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