Collinite products

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Originally Posted by RayCJ
Originally Posted by grampi
Originally Posted by Al
I used the Insulator wax and the paste many years ago. I stopped using it bc it was a PIA to apply.

I reconfirmed that the other day. I went back to another product.


I have not tried those, but you should try the 845...it's delightfully easy to apply and remove...and it not only doesn't stain trim, it can be used to keep it looking nice...


Grampi... It's perfectly understandable some folks would find Collinite waxes harder to work with. A lot of folks are not familiar with traditional "elbow grease" type car waxes like "Simoniz" and "Johnson's Paste Wax". Do you remember working with those? Oh, it was a bear! -And before clearcoat came out, you had to put wax on thick and wide to keep from buffing the color out of the paint.

Collinite is much more forgiving (and clearcoat is the invention of the century) but still needs a little TLC to do it right. If someone does half a hood on a sunny day, they'll be hating life. You can take Finish 2000 and do a whole car on a sunny day and it will still come off easy. With Collinite, you need to be mindful of the temperature and humidity and work accordingly.

That said, I use the 845, 476 and 915 and in all honesty, they all look and work great. Unless I buy a black or very dark colored vehicle, I'll probably use-up the 915 and just stick with the other 2 for simplicity.

Ray



I have not used any of Collinite's paste waxes, but I find the 845 very easy to work with. Goes on and comes off very easily. I don't know how difficult it is to apply or remove in the sun as I always do my vehicles in the garage, so this is not a problem. Another nice feature of the 845 is how it makes trim look new again. Usually waxes/sealants leave trim looking bad, but not Collinite. I have never used any other wax that's looked good on trim...
 
Originally Posted by RayCJ
Originally Posted by grampi
Originally Posted by Al
I used the Insulator wax and the paste many years ago. I stopped using it bc it was a PIA to apply.

I reconfirmed that the other day. I went back to another product.


I have not tried those, but you should try the 845...it's delightfully easy to apply and remove...and it not only doesn't stain trim, it can be used to keep it looking nice...


Grampi... It's perfectly understandable some folks would find Collinite waxes harder to work with. A lot of folks are not familiar with traditional "elbow grease" type car waxes like "Simoniz" and "Johnson's Paste Wax". Do you remember working with those? Oh, it was a bear! -And before clearcoat came out, you had to put wax on thick and wide to keep from buffing the color out of the paint.

Collinite is much more forgiving (and clearcoat is the invention of the century) but still needs a little TLC to do it right. If someone does half a hood on a sunny day, they'll be hating life. You can take Finish 2000 and do a whole car on a sunny day and it will still come off easy. With Collinite, you need to be mindful of the temperature and humidity and work accordingly.

That said, I use the 845, 476 and 915 and in all honesty, they all look and work great. Unless I buy a black or very dark colored vehicle, I'll probably use-up the 915 and just stick with the other 2 for simplicity.

Ray



TBH I've found 845 very easy to work with, but I'm also applying it with a DA polisher, which cuts down on the elbow grease considerably. Set mine to speed 2 and it's nice and easy.
 
Originally Posted by grampi
Originally Posted by RayCJ
Originally Posted by grampi
Originally Posted by Al
I used the Insulator wax and the paste many years ago. I stopped using it bc it was a PIA to apply.

I reconfirmed that the other day. I went back to another product.


I have not tried those, but you should try the 845...it's delightfully easy to apply and remove...and it not only doesn't stain trim, it can be used to keep it looking nice...


Grampi... It's perfectly understandable some folks would find Collinite waxes harder to work with. A lot of folks are not familiar with traditional "elbow grease" type car waxes like "Simoniz" and "Johnson's Paste Wax". Do you remember working with those? Oh, it was a bear! -And before clearcoat came out, you had to put wax on thick and wide to keep from buffing the color out of the paint.

Collinite is much more forgiving (and clearcoat is the invention of the century) but still needs a little TLC to do it right. If someone does half a hood on a sunny day, they'll be hating life. You can take Finish 2000 and do a whole car on a sunny day and it will still come off easy. With Collinite, you need to be mindful of the temperature and humidity and work accordingly.

That said, I use the 845, 476 and 915 and in all honesty, they all look and work great. Unless I buy a black or very dark colored vehicle, I'll probably use-up the 915 and just stick with the other 2 for simplicity.

Ray



I have not used any of Collinite's paste waxes, but I find the 845 very easy to work with. Goes on and comes off very easily. I don't know how difficult it is to apply or remove in the sun as I always do my vehicles in the garage, so this is not a problem. Another nice feature of the 845 is how it makes trim look new again. Usually waxes/sealants leave trim looking bad, but not Collinite. I have never used any other wax that's looked good on trim...


I find using it easy on/off as well. I've been using it for at least 10 years now, maybe even longer, and never encountered it being hard to get off but I ususally don't leave it on any longer than I have to so maybe that is why?
I have read about leaving it on 10 minutes to half an hour (IIRC?) but that seem excessive to me? How long do most leave it on before removing it, especially by hand?
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by irv


I find using it easy on/off as well. I've been using it for at least 10 years now, maybe even longer, and never encountered it being hard to get off but I ususally don't leave it on any longer than I have to so maybe that is why?
I have read about leaving it on 10 minutes to half an hour (IIRC?) but that seem excessive to me? How long do most leave it on before removing it, especially by hand?

It really depends on weather conditions but would guess between 3 to 6 minutes. The thinner the better. It hazes-up in about 1-2 minutes and I try to let it go another 1-2 minutes before buffing. If the sun comes out, I do smaller patches. On an overcast day, I can do 1/2 roof or hood panels at a time.

Ray
 
^^^Yes, I have noticed that IF I lose my shade for a given section, the 845 becomes substantially harder to remove, maybe even more so than some of the paste waxes I've used in the past.
frown.gif
 
Originally Posted by dailydriver
^^^Yes, I have noticed that IF I lose my shade for a given section, the 845 becomes substantially harder to remove, maybe even more so than some of the paste waxes I've used in the past.
frown.gif



That's a fact! The same is true of the paste versions.

BTW: I once called the folks at Collinite. They are a family owned business and really enjoy what they do. The fellow that answers the phone really seems to enjoy talking to his customers. So, here's some info about their most popular waxes. 845, 476 and 914 have the same ingredients but in different proportions. All of them have solvents, carnuba wax and their proprietary "synthetic" wax. 845 has slightly more solvent so it goes on easier and the rest is basically 50/50 carnuba and synthetic wax. On warm days, it liquefies. On cooler days, I always warm it up in hot water to make it liquid. 476 has just enough solvent so you can rub it onto the applicator. It also has the most synthetic wax of the three -and thus is most durable. 915 has the same solvent as 476 but has the highest amount of carnuba -which gives depth to dark finishes.

You can double-up if you want but it's best to wait 24-36 hours for the second coat and best to not use 845 for the second coat. The solvent in 485 will slightly "un-do" the first layer. In late fall, I use 845, wait a couple days then hit it with 476. It still repels water in the spring once the road salt is washed off.

All of them look and work great -and I like supporting their family business.
 
Originally Posted by RayCJ
Originally Posted by dailydriver
^^^Yes, I have noticed that IF I lose my shade for a given section, the 845 becomes substantially harder to remove, maybe even more so than some of the paste waxes I've used in the past.
frown.gif



That's a fact! The same is true of the paste versions.

BTW: I once called the folks at Collinite. They are a family owned business and really enjoy what they do. The fellow that answers the phone really seems to enjoy talking to his customers. So, here's some info about their most popular waxes. 845, 476 and 914 have the same ingredients but in different proportions. All of them have solvents, carnuba wax and their proprietary "synthetic" wax. 845 has slightly more solvent so it goes on easier and the rest is basically 50/50 carnuba and synthetic wax. On warm days, it liquefies. On cooler days, I always warm it up in hot water to make it liquid. 476 has just enough solvent so you can rub it onto the applicator. It also has the most synthetic wax of the three -and thus is most durable. 915 has the same solvent as 476 but has the highest amount of carnuba -which gives depth to dark finishes.

You can double-up if you want but it's best to wait 24-36 hours for the second coat and best to not use 845 for the second coat. The solvent in 485 will slightly "un-do" the first layer. In late fall, I use 845, wait a couple days then hit it with 476. It still repels water in the spring once the road salt is washed off.

All of them look and work great -and I like supporting their family business.



I think this is a problem a lot of people make, plus they use too much product. I read/was once told, you want it about the consistency of milk. The runnier the better and to use very little to apply it thin as possible.
I'll mist my applicator with water just enough to moisten it very slightly then add just a small dollop to my applicator. One panel at a time and the small dollop usually does the trick. A bottle, imo, should last for a few+ years easily for a regular size car/half ton P/U.
 
That's the right way to do it. A slightly damp applicator helps spread the wax easily. Many users use way too much product, no matter the brand.
 
Originally Posted by irv
A bottle, imo, should last for a few+ years easily for a regular size car/half ton P/U.


Even though mine is considered a tiny car by today's standards, a bottle of 845 only lasts me about a year because, unlike most, I apply a thin coat EVERY single time I wash the car, which is ~ every 2-3 weeks in the spring/summer/fall.
wink.gif
 
Originally Posted by RayCJ
Originally Posted by dailydriver
^^^Yes, I have noticed that IF I lose my shade for a given section, the 845 becomes substantially harder to remove, maybe even more so than some of the paste waxes I've used in the past.
frown.gif



That's a fact! The same is true of the paste versions.

BTW: I once called the folks at Collinite. They are a family owned business and really enjoy what they do. The fellow that answers the phone really seems to enjoy talking to his customers. So, here's some info about their most popular waxes. 845, 476 and 914 have the same ingredients but in different proportions. All of them have solvents, carnuba wax and their proprietary "synthetic" wax. 845 has slightly more solvent so it goes on easier and the rest is basically 50/50 carnuba and synthetic wax. On warm days, it liquefies. On cooler days, I always warm it up in hot water to make it liquid. 476 has just enough solvent so you can rub it onto the applicator. It also has the most synthetic wax of the three -and thus is most durable. 915 has the same solvent as 476 but has the highest amount of carnuba -which gives depth to dark finishes.

You can double-up if you want but it's best to wait 24-36 hours for the second coat and best to not use 845 for the second coat. The solvent in 485 will slightly "un-do" the first layer. In late fall, I use 845, wait a couple days then hit it with 476. It still repels water in the spring once the road salt is washed off.

All of them look and work great -and I like supporting their family business.



THANK YOU for this info!
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I may use the 476 in lieu of the Wolfgang 3.0 as a protective coat for the last wax before the winter 'salt soup' onslaught this year.
wink.gif
 
Originally Posted by dailydriver

THANK YOU for this info!
thumbsup2.gif
thumbsup2.gif


I may use the 476 in lieu of the Wolfgang 3.0 as a protective coat for the last wax before the winter 'salt soup' onslaught this year.
wink.gif




Good luck this winter! Having lived in Chicago for so many years, I know all too well what salt does to a vehicle. -It's ugly!

FWIW, I have no fiduciary interest in the Collinite company. Truth is, I've always enjoyed waxing cars the old fashioned way. I've used lots of other products and am curious curious about "ceramic" coatings but, for now, I've settled on Collinite and have used it for many years. They have a FAQ at this site. Within said FAQ they have links to specific product guides.

I became aware of their products from a friend that owns a repair service in the Annapolis-area yacht yards. They buy Collinite stuff by the case and use 845 on marine clear-coat surfaces.
 
Don't you guys have a garage to apply your wax in? I would never apply any wax in the sun...
 
Originally Posted by grampi
Don't you guys have a garage to apply your wax in? I would never apply any wax in the sun...

You might be surprised at how many people either don't have a garage (live in apartment, have a house with just a carport, have a house where the garage was 'converted', etc.. ) or have a garage that is already full, either with other cars, or with.. storage.

Some people only have a tight 1-car garage that doesn't allow any proper room around the vehicle to properly clean/wax their car.

Heck, my neighbor's garage is so full of tools and boxes of stuff, that he has to park is cars in the driveway.
 
Originally Posted by SirTanon
Originally Posted by grampi
Don't you guys have a garage to apply your wax in? I would never apply any wax in the sun...

You might be surprised at how many people either don't have a garage (live in apartment, have a house with just a carport, have a house where the garage was 'converted', etc.. ) or have a garage that is already full, either with other cars


Since it is my brother's townhouse, he has his POS, almost worthless at this point, totally NOT running, shredded ragtop, has not passed state inspection for 6 years, '99 Boxster occupying the garage permanently at this point, since he flat out REFUSES to get rid of it/sell it as a parts car for "sentimental/reminder of past wealthy times reasons".

He could buy a much newer, much lower mileage, fully updated, and all problems addressed Boxster/Cayman for less than HALF of what it would cost him to even get this one running again, let alone road worthy/passing inspection.

But he continues with this fantasy of fixing THIS one, when EVERYTHING must be replaced/rebuilt (pretty much NO maintenance by him for over 200K miles, maybe 6 oil changes in that time frame, EVERY; hose, belt, seal MUST BE replaced!!), even though he has NO coin to do so, or even buy that newer one either (BAD gambling problem!).
mad.gif
 
Originally Posted by grampi
Don't you guys have a garage to apply your wax in? I would never apply any wax in the sun...


LOL: Surely you jest! Yes, I have a 2.5 car garage but its a fully equipped machine shop with large industrial, precision lathes and mills, welding equipment, full compliment of shop and mechanics tools -and best of all, large work tables. (FWIW: I used to freelance as tool, die and mold maker. Now, it's just a hobby shop).
 
It has been a VERY long time since I visited here, and I do hope the BITOG family is doing well.

I bought my Accord EX-L V-6 MT new in 2017 and as an option, requested PPF to be applied. I found that using Collinite 476s paste wax would leave a difficult-to-remove residue along the edge of the PPF. However, I do think this wax is unmatched for its performance-to-price ratio. It is some very durable stuff.

Last week I grabbed my DeWalt 849X rotary I bought earlier this year and removed the oxidation on my (now neglected
frown.gif
) '95 Civic using a wool pad and 3D ONE compound and kept the speed around 1200 RPM, then polished using a red foam pad and same compound. The wax used for the final touch? Collinite 476s, of course.
 
My recent personal experience with 845 was it lasts 2 months on an ungaraged car in the HOT Alabama summer.

Easy to apply and pleased with results..

I applied Mothers cleaner wax over the weekend....curious to see how it lasts. Cherry odor is a nice touch...

I'm also curious to see if Finish Kare would last more than 2 months in hot weather. Guess I'll have to wait until next summer ...Ž...Ž....
 
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