So terrible you can't help but be impressed

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I scored an old Pioneer Premier stereo at the thrift store for $5 and the crackhead wiring of the previous owner is so bad you can't help but be impressed by it.

They used house wire nuts on mostly everything which is the #1 automotive wiring sin but it gets even better...

They spliced together all of the speaker positives and grounds so they could run 4 channels of audio out to 2 speakers, and they spliced together the constant, ignition, and remote wires.

I'm assuming in it's past life this stereo was hooked up to a bench power supply and used as a garage radio based on everything I seen. I plan to do the same thing with it myself but I'm cleaning up the wiring and doing it properly. Might just get a new-old-stock replacement harness from PACParts...

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
 
That's not all that bad-- if you have a pickup with only two speakers this takes the fader out of the equation.

Only weird thing is including the remote wire in the mess. Of course if they didn't include it in the bundle, they'd have had to cap it off, using another expensive cap.
lol.gif
 
Update: it lives! The faceplate won't slide out to reveal the CD player because that button is broken off, but the tuner works great.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
 
On a side note, if I go through with my 4th gen camaro LS build I wanna swap this radio into the car as it would be period correct to the car. Anyone know where I can get a used or NOS XM module for it?
 
What's wrong with using wire nuts ? Didn't know they were only for "house" wiring. In fact, they're not. They make wire nuts for wire as small as 22ga and you'll pretty much never have this in home electrical usage.Is there a concern about, maybe vibration ? I've used them myself with no issues but my preference was male/female bullet connectors. This was quite a few years ago though....
 
It's mainly because wirenuts are designed for solid core wire, not stranded wire which is common for automotive. Instead of threading on the wire properly a wirenut will crush the stranded wire which can lead to connection problems.

https://www.mobileedgeonline.com/wire-nuts-car-radio/

On all the stereo installs I've done I have used heatshrink butt connectors and/or crimp caps, whichever I have on hand at the time.
 
Yet every UL listed lighting fixture gives you stranded wire to nut to your conductors.

Lots of other places use conduit and stranded.

Not saying it's right for a vehicle where there is vibration and sometimes shock events.
 
Originally Posted by cwilliamsws6
On a side note, if I go through with my 4th gen camaro LS build I wanna swap this radio into the car as it would be period correct to the car. Anyone know where I can get a used or NOS XM module for it?


eBay- a couple of sellers offer "rebuild" services for period radios, so I bet they could get you something if its not listed.
 
I hooked it up to the bookshelf speakers in my room and it sounds really clear and has crisp, punchy bass too.

I'm definitely keeping it in case my 4th gen Camaro project moves forward because then I'll put it into that car so long as I can get the faceplate release button fixed.

I might open the radio up later and solder some wires coming out to a momentary switch that I can just push to open the faceplate as it's motorized flip-out. Won't be the most beautiful solution but it'll work.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by cwilliamsws6
It's mainly because wirenuts are designed for solid core wire....

Not true. Sounds like a case of "I've heard...." vs what's factual and spec'd by wire nut manufacturers.

Originally Posted by JHZR2
Yet every UL listed lighting fixture gives you stranded wire to nut to your conductors.
Stranded wire is very common - ask any electrician if the 500' spools of 12 or 14 gauge wire in his truck is stranded or solid. It will be stranded. Ever worked with solid wire ? It's stiff !
 
Originally Posted by hallstevenson
Ever worked with solid wire ? It's stiff !


Back when my dad was still working as an electrician, his arms and forearms were quite impressively muscled even though he didn't lift weights. He gave all the credit to fishtape, solid-conductor wires, and long conduit runs
lol.gif
 
Originally Posted by Hootbro
That thing is like trying to fix a disposable BIC lighter when empty, not worth the effort.

I dunno.. For $5, it looks like a pretty decent little stereo. Also, if he's enjoying the labor of getting it working, and it sounds good, I'd call it a win.
 
Originally Posted by cwilliamsws6
It's mainly because wirenuts are designed for solid core wire, not stranded wire which is common for automotive. Instead of threading on the wire properly a wirenut will crush the stranded wire which can lead to connection problems.
https://www.mobileedgeonline.com/wire-nuts-car-radio/
On all the stereo installs I've done I have used heatshrink butt connectors and/or crimp caps, whichever I have on hand at the time.

Wire nuts work well in house wiring when at least one of the conductors is solid because the stranded ones can be lightly wrapped around the solid one and the wire nut, when twisted on, will bite into the assembly and hold them together tightly.
 
Originally Posted by SirTanon
Originally Posted by Hootbro
That thing is like trying to fix a disposable BIC lighter when empty, not worth the effort.

I dunno.. For $5, it looks like a pretty decent little stereo. Also, if he's enjoying the labor of getting it working, and it sounds good, I'd call it a win.

Pretty much this. I'm happy with it and myself.
 
Originally Posted by cwilliamsws6
Originally Posted by SirTanon
Originally Posted by Hootbro
That thing is like trying to fix a disposable BIC lighter when empty, not worth the effort.

I dunno.. For $5, it looks like a pretty decent little stereo. Also, if he's enjoying the labor of getting it working, and it sounds good, I'd call it a win.

Pretty much this. I'm happy with it and myself.

Well, that's what counts. If I could get something like this for $5, I'd definitely buy it. Great fix-up project, and you get a nice little stereo out of it.

You mentioned "The faceplate won't slide out to reveal the CD player because that button is broken off" - You know, I bet you could use a tooth pick or some other thin pointy object and push in the 'nub' from that button and still end up being able to use the CD player. Worth a try.
 
I tried all of the above but the button is non existent. The hole in the faceplate where it should be, nothing in there.
 
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