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Toilet flange problem #5196401 08/25/19 05:52 PM
Joined: May 2011
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dja4260 Offline OP
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Finally got around to yanking basement toilet off as it was shimmed all around and rocked.

Not suprised to find the top of the 4''in toilet flange was raised 3/4''in above the floor. The flange isn't actually sitting on the tile floor, as I have 3/8''in of daylight below the bottom of the flange and tile.

It's a spare bathroom in the basement. I WON't be breaking up the floor.


I'm thinking to using a dremel to cut the PVC flush with the floor, using one of those flange repair kits. My only hesitation is that it would reduce the size to 3''in? It has a rubber boot that would fit tight to the existing pvc wall and sit flush on the floor. I would use concrete screws to secure to the floor.

I considered using 3/4 inch plywood and tracing the toilet base, and shimming the flange all around. It would be what my father considers a "hack job"..

Thoughts?

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Re: Toilet flange problem [Re: dja4260] #5196418 08/25/19 06:14 PM
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Rand Offline
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if it were my house in a basement.. I'd shim with the plywood method.. but I suppose if you mess it up can always call in a pro.


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Re: Toilet flange problem [Re: dja4260] #5196433 08/25/19 06:34 PM
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sloinker Offline
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There are some interesting kits to address that problem. Look around youtube and see what you think. I would get a hammer drill and drill an inch around the pipe many holes down about 4 inches an chip out the concrete, dremel the pipe and use the correct flange.


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Re: Toilet flange problem [Re: dja4260] #5196444 08/25/19 06:42 PM
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LoneRanger Offline
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Main concern with flange repair kit method is usually plywood or osb subfloor flexing during use can allow sewage system odors to leach into the room air as the two parts joined together - repair piece and main pvc pipe - dont move together all the time, i.e. flexing may break seal. However, that would not be a concern here with the concrete slab floor with tile on top. Zero movement of floor. I vote for the flange repair kit option. Use hardening caulk to stabilize toilet base to the floor. Don;t caulk back section of toilet base only front and along sides.



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Re: Toilet flange problem [Re: dja4260] #5196549 08/25/19 08:21 PM
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NormanBuntz Offline
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I like the hack job method, using marine grade or pressure treated plywood.


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Re: Toilet flange problem [Re: dja4260] #5196570 08/25/19 08:44 PM
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wog Offline
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Could you use durorock and put mud or mastic to attach to concrete?then anchor flange into concrete . The wood breaks down from moisture,rock holds up . Then use neoprene ring for seal.

Re: Toilet flange problem [Re: dja4260] #5196846 08/26/19 07:46 AM
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Linctex Offline
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I wouldn't use plywood, I'd use masonry and tiles around the base area to bring the floor up to meet the flange where level.


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Re: Toilet flange problem [Re: Linctex] #5197063 08/26/19 11:48 AM
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pandus13 Offline
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Originally Posted by Linctex
I wouldn't use plywood, I'd use masonry and tiles around the base area to bring the floor up to meet the flange where level.

On one 'tube video, I saw an older style plumber use a cement bed to set toilets, like the bathtubs.


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Re: Toilet flange problem [Re: dja4260] #5197543 08/26/19 08:46 PM
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doitmyself Offline
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Correct toilet flange installation is with the flange mounted on top of the finished floor. You would only have to raise the toilet 3/8" high, not 3/4 " in the OP. Maybe less if there is a lot of clearance underneath your toilet. Yes, you would need to shim underneath the current flange so that you can screw it into the concrete. Glue some kind of shims where the toilet base edge would sit so they do not stick out beyond the edge. Apply a nice bead of caulk around the base to hide the gap. This would require a bit of perfectionism type patience to do correctly.

"I'm thinking to using a dremel to cut the PVC flush with the floor, using one of those flange repair kits. My only hesitation is that it would reduce the size to 3''in? It has a rubber boot that would fit tight to the existing pvc wall and sit flush on the floor. I would use concrete screws to secure to the floor "

The toilet horn is only about 2" opening, so going from 4" to 3" should be no problem. Buy your replacement part FIRST and check to see if it will fit both the drain pipe and the toilet (length and diameter). There at least 4 different expansion/gasket type toilet flanges:

Sioux Chief Push Tite: Watch the push tite portion of this video at 1:15: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s-P141kXoiY ...This type seems perfect and it has the stronger metal flange ring.
[Linked Image from ecx.images-amazon.com]

Or, a Fernco waxless flange extender in conjunction with a repair flange ring might work: https://www.fernco.com/plumbing/wax-free-toilet-seal

Re: Toilet flange problem [Re: doitmyself] #5197763 08/27/19 08:23 AM
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dja4260 Offline OP
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Originally Posted by doitmyself
Correct toilet flange installation is with the flange mounted on top of the finished floor. You would only have to raise the toilet 3/8" high, not 3/4 " in the OP. Maybe less if there is a lot of clearance underneath your toilet. Yes, you would need to shim underneath the current flange so that you can screw it into the concrete. Glue some kind of shims where the toilet base edge would sit so they do not stick out beyond the edge. Apply a nice bead of caulk around the base to hide the gap. This would require a bit of perfectionism type patience to do correctly.

"I'm thinking to using a dremel to cut the PVC flush with the floor, using one of those flange repair kits. My only hesitation is that it would reduce the size to 3''in? It has a rubber boot that would fit tight to the existing pvc wall and sit flush on the floor. I would use concrete screws to secure to the floor "

The toilet horn is only about 2" opening, so going from 4" to 3" should be no problem. Buy your replacement part FIRST and check to see if it will fit both the drain pipe and the toilet (length and diameter). There at least 4 different expansion/gasket type toilet flanges:

Sioux Chief Push Tite: Watch the push tite portion of this video at 1:15: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s-P141kXoiY ...This type seems perfect and it has the stronger metal flange ring.
[Linked Image from ecx.images-amazon.com]

Or, a Fernco waxless flange extender in conjunction with a repair flange ring might work: https://www.fernco.com/plumbing/wax-free-toilet-seal



Thank you. I'm going to buy a few options and dry fit them before I cut anything. I'm not going with the shim method.


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Re: Toilet flange problem [Re: dja4260] #5197881 08/27/19 11:08 AM
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doitmyself Offline
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There are also plastic base plates of various brands, if interested: https://www.oatey.com/ASSETS/DOCUMENTS/ITEMS/EN/Toilet_Base_Plate.pdf

If the floor is not perfect and the toilet rocks even the slightest, it's best to use some shims to prevent any movement.

Re: Toilet flange problem [Re: dja4260] #5198279 08/27/19 07:10 PM
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dja4260 Offline OP
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I'm super pleased. I went to HD than Lowes. Lowes had a replacement/repair flange that is made to fit inside a 4''in PVC that already has a flange glued inside of it. I basically just need to cut the top off flush with the floor and glue this one inside the existing. Should be a piece of cake?!?!


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