how to get out o2 sensor

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The recent thread about o2 sensors reminded me that last time I tried to change my upstream o2 sensor I couldn't get the old one out so I returned the new one. There is nothing wrong with my car but I am a believer of changing them at 100k miles if it's easy and cheap enough. On my car it's fairly accessible, though it's covered by the heat shield a bit so I can't get direct access. I tried various o2 sensor sockets and it just wouldn't turn. I tried spraying some penetrating oil and that didn't help either. I gave up because I didn't want to cause more problems than I was trying to solve. 2010 escape 2.5...
 
I use a torch, and a long end wrench where i can. If i can get an impact to it, i'll cut the wires and do that. If i can't get impact to it, i'll take it to an exhaust shop. They can drop the pipes on a lift easier than i can in the driveway.
 
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Fords have the tightest torqued O2 sensors of any make (In my opinion).

I cut the wires off & use a deep 7/8" or 22mm 1/2" drive socket on a 25" long 1/2" drive ratchet........ O2 sockets will spread!
 
Originally Posted by dishdude
Unless it's throwing a code you're throwing your money away.

Not always. They do get lazy but no code. My Jeep really picked up mpg and power with new ones.
 
Originally Posted by dishdude
Unless it's throwing a code you're throwing your money away.


Amen, I never change my oil until I hear the engine about to seize up! Same for rotating tires. If it ain't shimmying, leave ‘em be!
 
Originally Posted by dishdude
Unless it's throwing a code you're throwing your money away.


Gotta agree. I have 300k on the original ones in one of our vehicles.

As to getting them off, Soak in Kroil the day before and again an hour ahead. The heat and they'll come off without much fuss.
 
Originally Posted by The_Nuke
Originally Posted by dishdude
Unless it's throwing a code you're throwing your money away.


Amen, I never change my oil until I hear the engine about to seize up! Same for rotating tires. If it ain't shimmying, leave ‘em be!


Thank you. I'm not getting the MPG I think I should be getting which is why I want to change the o2 sensor.

Originally Posted by clinebarger
Fords have the tightest torqued O2 sensors of any make (In my opinion).

I cut the wires off & use a deep 7/8" or 22mm 1/2" drive socket on a 25" long 1/2" drive ratchet........ O2 sockets will spread!


Good idea. I will use a real socket on a breaker bar... It's just that once I cut it there's no turning back.
 
Originally Posted by Chris142

Not always. They do get lazy but no code. My Jeep really picked up mpg and power with new ones.


Yep, I've experienced increased mpg more than once.
 
Originally Posted by dogememe
Originally Posted by The_Nuke
Originally Posted by dishdude
Unless it's throwing a code you're throwing your money away.


Amen, I never change my oil until I hear the engine about to seize up! Same for rotating tires. If it ain't shimmying, leave ‘em be!


Thank you. I'm not getting the MPG I think I should be getting which is why I want to change the o2 sensor.

Originally Posted by clinebarger
Fords have the tightest torqued O2 sensors of any make (In my opinion).

I cut the wires off & use a deep 7/8" or 22mm 1/2" drive socket on a 25" long 1/2" drive ratchet........ O2 sockets will spread!


Good idea. I will use a real socket on a breaker bar... It's just that once I cut it there's no turning back.


Depends how you cut the wires, if you leave enough room, you could always splice it back in.
 
Originally Posted by spasm3
Originally Posted by clinebarger
. O2 sockets will spread!



Yes they will !


What kind of cheap [censored] socket are you using? Made from chinesezium?

Anything in that tight might have buggered threads and should be used with a thread chaser to clean them up.
 
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Originally Posted by user52165
Originally Posted by spasm3
Originally Posted by clinebarger
. O2 sockets will spread!



Yes they will !


What kind of cheap [censored] socket are you using? Made from chinesezium?

I tried with the rental tool ones from O'Reilly and they seemed to be slightly too loose.
 
Originally Posted by Chris142
Originally Posted by dishdude
Unless it's throwing a code you're throwing your money away.

Not always. They do get lazy but no code. My Jeep really picked up mpg and power with new ones.


Same story with my Caliber.

I sprayed it with WD40 after I got home from work, let it sit, sprayed it again before I left for work the next day, let it cool till lunch time where I sprayed it with kroil, worked the rest of my shift, drove it home, and immediately removed it. Came out without a fight.
 
Try breaking it loose when the manifold is hot. Use a breaker bar with a couple feet of black steel pipe on the end.
 
Originally Posted by ethnix
Try breaking it loose when the manifold is hot. Use a breaker bar with a couple feet of black steel pipe on the end.

Exactly how mine came out when it initially wouldn't budge.
 
Originally Posted by Chris142
Originally Posted by dishdude
Unless it's throwing a code you're throwing your money away.

Not always. They do get lazy but no code. My Jeep really picked up mpg and power with new ones.

Yes they do. I follow what the manufacturer recommends.
I used to keep the engine running and break the sensor loose. The cat gets very hot and this helps to break it loose.
thumbsup2.gif
 
Originally Posted by Chris142
Originally Posted by dishdude
Unless it's throwing a code you're throwing your money away.

Not always. They do get lazy but no code. My Jeep really picked up mpg and power with new ones.

On our Honda's I replaced at 120K miles.

Yes they do get lazy.
 
I agree with prior posts. If it won't turn out cold try it when the exhaust is still hot. Should turn right out. If your new O2 sensor doesn't come with a touch of anti seize applied make sure to do that before installing.
 
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