Yeah I mean fired oak and cork has been doing great for centuries
VW Plastic Oil Drain Plugs
- Thread starter dishdude
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- Apr 22, 2016
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It works for the bean counters because it saves the company 1.5 cents per vehicle, plus a new revenue stream by selling replacements to people and shops. How many people actually had to purchase a metal drain plug from the dealer because it failed, not many.
You should have the Schwaben VAG Sump Drain Plug Tool.
It's right around $15.00. 1/4 drive.
It is the right way to do it.
It's right around $15.00. 1/4 drive.
It is the right way to do it.
Originally Posted by sloinker
Remember a few years back when everyone was crying about the plastic intake manifolds? Don't know if anyone still builds a metal intake anymore.
Yeah, but the intake manifold doesn't hang precariously off the bottom of the engine in a place that's susceptible to rocks, potholes, ice chunks, parking barriers etc.
Remember a few years back when everyone was crying about the plastic intake manifolds? Don't know if anyone still builds a metal intake anymore.
Yeah, but the intake manifold doesn't hang precariously off the bottom of the engine in a place that's susceptible to rocks, potholes, ice chunks, parking barriers etc.
I kinda like the idea of a threaded plastic drain plug with a fiber or nylon washer. It would be impossible for a lube tech to strip out my oil pan. He might have to replace the plug but that's an easier fix.
Originally Posted by Ursatdx
You should have the Schwaben VAG Sump Drain Plug Tool.
It's right around $15.00. 1/4 drive.
It is the right way to do it.
Don't need 1/4" drive, get one of the hand tools to do it or use a screwdriver. There is virtually no torque on the plug. 5-pack with tool for $10
I think it's a great design that can't be overtorqued. I used my plugs twice on my GTI.
You should have the Schwaben VAG Sump Drain Plug Tool.
It's right around $15.00. 1/4 drive.
It is the right way to do it.
Don't need 1/4" drive, get one of the hand tools to do it or use a screwdriver. There is virtually no torque on the plug. 5-pack with tool for $10
I think it's a great design that can't be overtorqued. I used my plugs twice on my GTI.
What does the VW owners manual recommend ?
They are awaiting data regarding the crumbling of the original plug.
Can the O ring be replaced?
Can the O ring be replaced?
I think we tend to distrust gaskets and o-rings but as long as the seal is correct, then this isn't THAT much worse.
Plus it seems like every newer car has a full under body panel that protects things like the oil drain plug from debris (while also hiding leaks unfortunately).
Plus it seems like every newer car has a full under body panel that protects things like the oil drain plug from debris (while also hiding leaks unfortunately).
With dealer oil changes being done by many who don't seem to have a good work ethic, I wonder how often the 1/4 turn drain plug is going to fall out after the owner drives away. Ed
Removed and replaced with no issues, came right out with a flat head and went right back in. No question about how much to torque, no worry about crush washers. The local O'Reilly showed one in stock so if anything weird happened I figured I could run down there or the dealer but it wasn't necessary. Not sure a special tool is needed either unless it gets really stuck for some reason like lack of maintenance.
Originally Posted by dishdude
Removed and replaced with no issues, came right out with a flat head and went right back in. No question about how much to torque, no worry about crush washers. The local O'Reilly showed one in stock so if anything weird happened I figured I could run down there or the dealer but it wasn't necessary. Not sure a special tool is needed either unless it gets really stuck for some reason like lack of maintenance.
When you tighten it a quarter turn, do you feel a positive lock or click when the plug locks in?
Looking at the plug, it's quite obvious it's the o-ring that does the sealing and not how tight the plug is installed. IMO, little wear should occur both to the plug and the o-ring, unless it is user error.
Removed and replaced with no issues, came right out with a flat head and went right back in. No question about how much to torque, no worry about crush washers. The local O'Reilly showed one in stock so if anything weird happened I figured I could run down there or the dealer but it wasn't necessary. Not sure a special tool is needed either unless it gets really stuck for some reason like lack of maintenance.
When you tighten it a quarter turn, do you feel a positive lock or click when the plug locks in?
Looking at the plug, it's quite obvious it's the o-ring that does the sealing and not how tight the plug is installed. IMO, little wear should occur both to the plug and the o-ring, unless it is user error.
Originally Posted by Lolvoguy
Originally Posted by sloinker
Remember a few years back when everyone was crying about the plastic intake manifolds? Don't know if anyone still builds a metal intake anymore.
Yeah, but the intake manifold doesn't hang precariously off the bottom of the engine in a place that's susceptible to rocks, potholes, ice chunks, parking barriers etc.
If you bash an oil pan, it's going to need replaced regardless of its construction.
The underbody shield takes care of everything else. Have you seen the oil pan? It's a stout design - but if you like, there are already steel replacements and URO Parts makes an aluminum version cast from the factory part.
Originally Posted by sloinker
Remember a few years back when everyone was crying about the plastic intake manifolds? Don't know if anyone still builds a metal intake anymore.
Yeah, but the intake manifold doesn't hang precariously off the bottom of the engine in a place that's susceptible to rocks, potholes, ice chunks, parking barriers etc.
If you bash an oil pan, it's going to need replaced regardless of its construction.
The underbody shield takes care of everything else. Have you seen the oil pan? It's a stout design - but if you like, there are already steel replacements and URO Parts makes an aluminum version cast from the factory part.
Originally Posted by KrisZ
Originally Posted by dishdude
Removed and replaced with no issues, came right out with a flat head and went right back in. No question about how much to torque, no worry about crush washers. The local O'Reilly showed one in stock so if anything weird happened I figured I could run down there or the dealer but it wasn't necessary. Not sure a special tool is needed either unless it gets really stuck for some reason like lack of maintenance.
When you tighten it a quarter turn, do you feel a positive lock or click when the plug locks in?
Looking at the plug, it's quite obvious it's the o-ring that does the sealing and not how tight the plug is installed. IMO, little wear should occur both to the plug and the o-ring, unless it is user error.
There's a little stop built into the plug and pan so it's obvious when it's in. It's really a slick design. Moving forward I'll plan to replace the plug each OCI, they are only a few bucks.
Originally Posted by dishdude
Removed and replaced with no issues, came right out with a flat head and went right back in. No question about how much to torque, no worry about crush washers. The local O'Reilly showed one in stock so if anything weird happened I figured I could run down there or the dealer but it wasn't necessary. Not sure a special tool is needed either unless it gets really stuck for some reason like lack of maintenance.
When you tighten it a quarter turn, do you feel a positive lock or click when the plug locks in?
Looking at the plug, it's quite obvious it's the o-ring that does the sealing and not how tight the plug is installed. IMO, little wear should occur both to the plug and the o-ring, unless it is user error.
There's a little stop built into the plug and pan so it's obvious when it's in. It's really a slick design. Moving forward I'll plan to replace the plug each OCI, they are only a few bucks.
I'm not paying the price of a filter for a new drain plug every OC.
30K miles. 3-5 OCi's
- Oh, Just recalled the dealer does it for "free" during my lease
walk it back
30K miles. 3-5 OCi's
- Oh, Just recalled the dealer does it for "free" during my lease
walk it back
Originally Posted by dishdude
There's a little stop built into the plug and pan so it's obvious when it's in. It's really a slick design. Moving forward I'll plan to replace the plug each OCI, they are only a few bucks.
Sounds like a good design. Judging by the number of threads asking for drain plug torque, many people on here seem to be afraid of over torquing the drain plug and stripping the aluminum oil pan threads. This should take the guess work out for those DIYers.
Personally I don't care either way, as long as it holds the oil in the pan reliably.
There's a little stop built into the plug and pan so it's obvious when it's in. It's really a slick design. Moving forward I'll plan to replace the plug each OCI, they are only a few bucks.
Sounds like a good design. Judging by the number of threads asking for drain plug torque, many people on here seem to be afraid of over torquing the drain plug and stripping the aluminum oil pan threads. This should take the guess work out for those DIYers.
Personally I don't care either way, as long as it holds the oil in the pan reliably.
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