Is problem with camphasers an oil issue or a bad design...

[noclutch]

Originally Posted by BISCUT
Just my thought process. If I were to end up with a 3.5 or 2.7 and use my vehicle for an average of 15-20k a year I would think any 5-30 synthetic and 5k oci is a no brainer.


That's what I was thinking, and overthinking.
In my case, my ‘18 3.5 EB diluted with 3% fuel and sheared cSt 11.7 (RGT) to 9.7 in Had I started with most any other 5w-30 syn which are almost always VOA around 10.7 AND then done the same 2.0 decline in viscosity after 5k I would have been below grade.
So, where's the sweet spot? Or what alternative am I missing, assuming one is under warranty and want to comply with SN+ and 946 B1?

 

[BISCUT]

I'd get a 3.5 no problem and simply do 5k on whatever synthetic (for me Mobil 1 has always been good to me) you feel confident in. Do some UOA to determine fuel dilution if any and adjust from there. I'd bet the 2nd gen is a ok with 6 -7500 OCI for most users but not all. Driving climate and habits mean more IMHO.

 

[Cujet]

I've found that 10w-30 M1 EP works best for my gen 1 3.5EB here in FL. I've also found that 5000 miles is the outside limit on oil changes. By 4000 miles the oil is sufficiently contaminated.

As mentioned above soot is damaging to timing chains. Especially so with thin oils. A true 30 viscosity is ideal for chain life.

 

[tiger862]

My son in law just had his Cam phaser done on his 3.5. He just turned 67000 miles and Ford hit him up for 3000. I asked him why didn't he trade it in as this is the longest he kept a vehicle (2 years) and he stated that he owed 24k and dealership low balled him. He tried Ford for assistance since this is 3rd new truck he bought from this dealership and was told out of warranty nothing that they could do. He said it was sad as he loves the truck so now he will be paying it off as he has been but instead of buying a new one he will keep it. Truck isn't worked just a people hauler.