Is it worth using a dehumidifier to help cool house?

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My house was cooling rather poorly once. Inspection revealed a 20 year buildup of dust on the A coils that blocked flow.
 
Has it ever worked properly or is this a recent issue?

Sounds like the unit is either undersized (in which humidity levels should be low, at least, if running constantly and all else is working properly). I'm guessing it's probably not this.

How is the condition of the condenser cooling fins outside? Coated in dirt or anything like that? That is what rejects heat out of the house. You say it was replaced in 2013, so I assume it is in decent shape.

Evaporator may be clogged/dirty, which will make it more difficult for the AC to reject the humidity (evaporator is what cools the air and causes the humidity in the air to condense on the coils and drip off and go down the drain). That could cause poor cooling and higher humidity. My guess is on this.

It might be worth calling out a respectable AC company to do an inspection/cleaning and see what they say, if you are unable to check it out yourself.
 
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I know the OP is in Florida where he likely doesn't have a basement. But I wonder if a dehumidifier would help in northern climes where basements are more common. Hot air rises and thus there is often a vacuum pulled on the basement, so I wonder if dehumidifying the basement might lead to more dry air being pulled upstairs, which may be cooled more easily.

Originally Posted by Gillsy
Originally Posted by Alfred_B
I would use a portable AC for additional cooling. Some have a dry function as well.

Portables in my opinion won't help. All that hot air that the portables blow outside is replaced with outside air being drawn back into the house or you would wind up with a vacuum. They in my situation raise the humidity in the house, and I verify that with a hygrometer. If the condenser is too big, it may short cycle, and not run long enough to remove the humidity. If too small, it can't remove enough humidity no matter how long it cycles. I'm no HVAC pro, but maybe someone with more know-how can chime in.

Some portable units are single hose, and you'd be right. However some are dual hose and will use outside air instead. But they do cost a bit more.
 
Some utility companies offer a energy audit that should include a blower door test which measures how tight the house is. Air conditioning evaporator coils should run a 18*- 24* them difference by measuring return and supply temps close to the furnace or air handler. High humidity flows to low humidity just like temperature. a temperaturer/ humidity thermometer is needed to measure humidity. Heres one for $11
https://www.amazon.com/ThermoPro-TP...;qid=1566322567&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Indoor humidity level should be 50% or less above mold can grow.
 
I live 'up north'.

I have a (very wet) basement. The water table is several inches above the top of the basement slab. My sump pump runs from several times per hour, to many times per hour.

In the dead of winter, with outside temps around zero, and my natural gas furnace running many times per hour, my house might get *down* to 45% humidity (if the dehumidifier is shut off). The basement would be 50+% humid at that point.

In the summer, with A/C and dehumidifier running, ground floor is at 45% humidity. If I shut off the dehumidifier in the basement, eventually the ground floor will be 55+% humid.

Running the dehumidifier in the summer definitely makes the air more comfortable. In the winter, *not* running the dehumidifier results in a thick layer of ice at the base of the newish dual pane 'insulated' windows (with honeycomb insulated shades).

My Kill-a-watt claims the cost is about $20 per month. Your *rates* will vary.
 
I ended up purchasing a 30pt/24 hour dehumidifier, GE brand. We borrowed my mother in laws for about a week to see if it would help before purchasing one of our own. It absolutely makes a difference in comfort level, that is the reason we purchased. So far, we are happy with it.
 
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