Is it safe to use 100% synthetic

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Originally Posted by Espada
Originally Posted by OilUzer
What is the price difference between the two oil? Dino/mineral/conventional vs. Amsoil in your country?
That may help the answer!

btw, lots of cars in the world run on conventional oil ... I'm guessing most cars in the world are running conventional. I'm running conventional right now in 3 out of 4 cars ... lol


Mineral costs 205 EGP Amsoil cost 700 EGP but cost isn't the issue here i am talking about the best oil for my car


Yes, synthetic will be safe, and a synthetic will usually be better than a conventional oil, especially when you plan to go a longer interval.

I think the Amsoil will do well for you, and 10,000km should be well within its capability.

You could even go further than that, depending on the result of UOAs.
 
Originally Posted by Espada
My car model is 1997 but engine was rebuilt 20000km ago i have been running 20w50 mineral oil since then and by flushing i mean that i add a bottle of engine flush before changing oil and filter and run it on idle for 15 mints to prevent any deposits from staying behind and to make new oil run better and since i knew about the benefits and how much better synthetic oil is i wanna give it a try but i never had an experience with it before and for air filter i change it every 7000km to be safe even if its good to go

I think OP needs to use more punctuation.
crazy2.gif
 
That may have been why your engine needed rebuilt in the first place. The oil is too thick. It would be OK back when cars were carbonated, but now it is not because most cases run on 5w30 or 10w30 for 97
 
Take a picture of oils in your store and let's see what's available.
Hasn't Walmart invaded over there yet?

I would even consider a xW40 or one a with high(er) hths. Engine is going run hotter with thicker oil x50.
 
Originally Posted by Bonnelvr92
That may have been why your engine needed rebuilt in the first place. The oil is too thick. It would be OK back when cars were carbonated, but now it is not because most cases run on 5w30 or 10w30 for 97

Completely without technical merit, and a funny typo to boot.

Please stop posting.
 
Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by Bonnelvr92
That may have been why your engine needed rebuilt in the first place. The oil is too thick. It would be OK back when cars were carbonated, but now it is not because most cases run on 5w30 or 10w30 for 97

Completely without technical merit, and a funny typo to boot.

Please stop posting.




Way too much Who Hit John and it's still early.
 
Originally Posted by Lolvoguy

I think OP needs to use more punctuation.
crazy2.gif


Cut the guy some slack...english is probably not his primary language.
 
Originally Posted by OilUzer
Take a picture of oils in your store and let's see what's available.
Hasn't Walmart invaded over there yet?

I would even consider a xW40 or one a with high(er) hths. Engine is going run hotter with thicker oil x50.

Mobil's website says it's available in Egypt. I'm not sure why the OP's not finding it... unless Mobil's website is wrong but I'd surprised if that were the case. Dunno...

Mobil Egypt
 
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The Amsoil should be no problem, whether it is the 20W40 or 20W50. The technical data on this puts oil change intervals at around 15,000 miles (24,000 km) and with good filters you should be able to get excellent results. I know that it can be harder to find the technical data on some filters, but this link may help http://oilfilterdata.com/index.php and here is the technical data on the Amsoil https://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2212.pdf

The only issue that I can imagine is if the rebuild was done with old seal material and could be incompatible with the oil (Amsoil tends to use Group IV and Group V oils in their blends).
 
Originally Posted by Espada
I have a Mitsubishi lancer 1997 model with 1300cc engine which broke down at 250000 KM and started consuming oil so i rebuilt it and changed all the broken...


It appears that you take good care of your vehicle, so maybe you should forget about the flush at every oil change, maybe that is doing more harm than good.

If cost is not an issue, go with Amsoil.

For a 20W50 i wonder how much of a synthetic it really is.

The OP should have other brands avaible there, but i think it should be lighter visc. options only.
 
It's hard to believe Amsoil is the only brand available locally in 20w50 viscosity.
Amsoil may technically be better than other leading-brand oils, but not a lot better. So I think even the other leading brands are more than good enough for your car. No need to pay Amsoil prices when you don't really need Amsoil. But if you have too much money, get the Amsoil.
 
We have Mobil, Castrol and shell all of the big guys are here but the issue is no one offers a full synthetic oil in 20w50 but Amsoil, the closet to that is Mannol favorite which is semi-synthetic at 15w50, i have attached a screenshot from the car's manual which requires a 20w40 or 20w50 in temps of my area as it never gets to -10 or 0 Celsius we have at 10 Celsius minimum at winter but could reach 50 Celsius at summer, the manual also recommends API SE or higher, i have tried 10w40 semi-synthetic once but it burned off at a fast rate couldn't handle traveling at high speed and didn't last 4000km and had to change it.

Sorry for anyone trying to help but find issues in my English as its not my primary language

Screenshot_2019-08-20-08-39-44-036_com.google.android.apps.docs.png
 
Originally Posted by Espada
We have Mobil, Castrol and shell all of the big guys are here but the issue is no one offers a full synthetic oil in 20w50 but Amsoil, the closet to that is Mannol favorite which is semi-synthetic at 15w50, i have attached a screenshot from the car's manual which requires a 20w40 or 20w50 in temps of my area as it never gets to -10 or 0 Celsius we have at 10 Celsius minimum at winter but could reach 50 Celsius at summer, the manual also recommends API SE or higher, i have tried 10w40 semi-synthetic once but it burned off at a fast rate couldn't handle traveling at high speed and didn't last 4000km and had to change it.

Sorry for anyone trying to help but find issues in my English as its not my primary language

I think people are just wanting to help you save money. I think you're reasoning for wanting to switch to a full syn is legitimate. I'll speak for myself in that that living here in the States we're pretty spoiled with our vast selection of lubricants. We have to remember not everyone enjoys that wide range of options.

Anyhow... can you order oil online and have it shipped? Would that be cost effective or even doable?? If not, run the Amsoil.. it's certainly a fine oil. And besides, you spent a lot of money on that engine rebuild and there's nothing wrong with wanting to protect your investment by running a high quality oil..I totally get that....
 
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Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
Originally Posted by Espada
We have Mobil, Castrol and shell all of the big guys are here but the issue is no one offers a full synthetic oil in 20w50 but Amsoil, the closet to that is Mannol favorite which is semi-synthetic at 15w50, i have attached a screenshot from the car's manual which requires a 20w40 or 20w50 in temps of my area as it never gets to -10 or 0 Celsius we have at 10 Celsius minimum at winter but could reach 50 Celsius at summer, the manual also recommends API SE or higher, i have tried 10w40 semi-synthetic once but it burned off at a fast rate couldn't handle traveling at high speed and didn't last 4000km and had to change it.

Sorry for anyone trying to help but find issues in my English as its not my primary language

I think people are just wanting to help you save money. I think you're reasoning for wanting to switch to a full syn is legitimate. I'll speak for myself in that that living here in the States we're pretty spoiled with our vast selection of lubricants. We have to remember not everyone enjoys that wide range of options.

Anyhow... can you order oil online and have it shipped? Would that be cost effective or even doable?? If not, run the Amsoil.. it's certainly a fine oil. And besides, you spent a lot of money on that engine rebuild and there's nothing wrong with wanting to protect your investment by running a high quality oil..I totally get that....


Yeah it was like a bolt of lightning when i saw that there is 20w50 synthetic and more than 1 brand at the USA as in here even Mobil and Castrol offer 20w50 at mineral only because of cost as people here tend to take the short term for saving money and have [censored] of issues because of cheap oils, so correct me if i am wrong i will ease my car into full synthetic by using a semi-synthetic then going to full synthetic, i wont put too much KM on any oil to keep it clean and I won't be flushing every oil change like i used to do.

Thanks for your support â¤ï¸
 
Two other full synthetic options to consider that may be available to you is Mobil 1 15W-50 or Castrol Edge 10W60. There is also M1 5W-50, but I think the M1 15W-50 is a better choice for your climate and conditions.

I too live in a hot climate and was a 20W50 user. I migrated to the synthetics listed above and never looked back.

Also you can get a Shell Helix Ultra 10W-60 and Valvoline SynPower 10W-50. Or at least you can in Australia.

Nothing at all wrong with the Amsoil 20W-50, just surprised that you don't have more thick synthetic options. That 10W-60 grade is used by a number of European cars and motorcycles so it should be available worldwide.
 
Originally Posted by Espada
Yeah it was like a bolt of lightning when i saw that there is 20w50 synthetic and more than 1 brand at the USA as in here even Mobil and Castrol offer 20w50 at mineral only because of cost as people here tend to take the short term for saving money and have [censored] of issues because of cheap oils, so correct me if i am wrong i will ease my car into full synthetic by using a semi-synthetic then going to full synthetic, i wont put too much KM on any oil to keep it clean and I won't be flushing every oil change like i used to do.

Thanks for your support â¤ï¸

I would say that's an excellent plan.
 
OP, based on the oil ranges you posted, probably the best thing to do is run a good, but less expensive oil, and change it more often. As others said, dust is a big part of engine wear, and viscosity breakdown less so, even at those temperatures. If you get 5000 km out of a less expensive, but quality oil, I'd be doing that, and spend the money on oil and air filters instead.

My relatives in Turkey all run the cheap oils for way too long, and then complain the cars don't last.

And even at 10,000 km, with Amsoil, a flush should not be needed.
 
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