Is it safe to use 100% synthetic

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I have a Mitsubishi lancer 1997 model with 1300cc engine which broke down at 250000 KM and started consuming oil so i rebuilt it and changed all the broken parts and started using 20w50 oil cause i live in Egypt which has temperatures that requires such viscosity as per the car manual, i have been using mineral oil rated API/SL and it says i should change it every 5000km but i change it at 3000km with filter on each change and i always flush the old oil but then i started searching for oils and differences between them and found out that 100% synthetic gives much better protection in high heats and crank start, now the question is can i change to Amsoil 20w50 premium protection as its the only synthetic with 20w50 in Egypt and change it every 10000km cause i dont want to keep any type of oil for long as the terrain here is rough and 80% is city driving with lots of speed pumps and traffic and of course the air conditioner is always on and 20% is traveling with full car and full luggage, i have uploaded the data sheet of the oil i am using now.

Sorry for the long post and thanks in advance for anyone who will help but i am very cautious after my engine has been rebuilt cause of my ignorance it was broken in the first place cause i used a monograde oil which caused the damage cause i didn't knew about the difference.
 

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What is the price difference between the two oil? Dino/mineral/conventional vs. Amsoil in your country?
That may help the answer!

btw, lots of cars in the world run on conventional oil ... I'm guessing most cars in the world are running conventional. I'm running conventional right now in 3 out of 4 cars ... lol
 
Originally Posted by OilUzer
What is the price difference between the two oil? Dino/mineral/conventional vs. Amsoil in your country?
That may help the answer!

btw, lots of cars in the world run on conventional oil ... I'm guessing most cars in the world are running conventional. I'm running conventional right now in 3 out of 4 cars ... lol


Mineral costs 205 EGP Amsoil cost 700 EGP but cost isn't the issue here i am talking about the best oil for my car
 
Are Castrol, Mobil or Shell not available in your area? They've gotta be cheaper than Amsoil. (Amsoil's a fine oil, it's just costly)

What are your low(est) temps? Can you run a straight (mono) grade suitable for Egypt??.. that might give you more options.
 
Originally Posted by Espada
Originally Posted by OilUzer
What is the price difference between the two oil? Dino/mineral/conventional vs. Amsoil in your country?
That may help the answer!

btw, lots of cars in the world run on conventional oil ... I'm guessing most cars in the world are running conventional. I'm running conventional right now in 3 out of 4 cars ... lol


Mineral costs 205 EGP Amsoil cost 700 EGP but cost isn't the issue here i am talking about the best oil for my car

Your changing the oil out every 10k km, a lot of oils besides Amsoil will work fine. But if you have your heart set on Amsoil...go for it.

As for going from mineral to full syn, the first couple changes should be short (maybe 5~6k km?) because the full syn can clean out any sludge and you don't want that clogging up small oil passages, filter, pick up.. etc.
 
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
Originally Posted by Espada
Originally Posted by OilUzer
What is the price difference between the two oil? Dino/mineral/conventional vs. Amsoil in your country?
That may help the answer!

btw, lots of cars in the world run on conventional oil ... I'm guessing most cars in the world are running conventional. I'm running conventional right now in 3 out of 4 cars ... lol


Mineral costs 205 EGP Amsoil cost 700 EGP but cost isn't the issue here i am talking about the best oil for my car

Your changing the oil out every 10k km, a lot of oils besides Amsoil will work fine. But if you have your heart set on Amsoil...go for it.

As for going from mineral to full syn, the first couple changes should be short (maybe 5~6k km?) because the full syn can clean out any sludge and you don't want that clogging up small oil passages, filter, pick up.. etc.


The only 100% synthetic oil in Egypt that comes in 20w50 is Amsoil all the other brands have light viscosity, the temps in Egypt are very high in summer reaches 50 Celsius sometimes but mostly 30-40 Celsius and never ever has it dropped below 0 as in winter it goes to 10 Celsius
 
Originally Posted by Espada

The only 100% synthetic oil in Egypt that comes in 20w50 is Amsoil all the other brands have light viscosity, the temps in Egypt are very high in summer reaches 50 Celsius sometimes but mostly 30-40 Celsius and never ever has it dropped below 0 as in winter it goes to 10 Celsius

Can you get a full synthetic straight grade, since your low temps don't go below 0c? If my temps didn't get cold like they do, I'd run an SAE30 all day everyday and twice on Sundays!...‚.. If not, sounds like you got a handle on things and Amsoil it is (weird that no other Xw50 is available🤔..but oh well).
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
Originally Posted by Espada

The only 100% synthetic oil in Egypt that comes in 20w50 is Amsoil all the other brands have light viscosity, the temps in Egypt are very high in summer reaches 50 Celsius sometimes but mostly 30-40 Celsius and never ever has it dropped below 0 as in winter it goes to 10 Celsius

Can you get a full synthetic straight grade, since your low temps don't go below 0c? If not, sounds like you got a handle on things and Amsoil it is (weird that no other Xw50 is available🤔..but oh well).



Closet thing i found was a semi-synthetic brand mannol 15w50, if i am flushing engine every oil change and i will flush again and switch to Amsoil how long to run it to be on safe side and keep in mind dust and traffic here is insane
 
Originally Posted by Espada
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
Originally Posted by Espada

The only 100% synthetic oil in Egypt that comes in 20w50 is Amsoil all the other brands have light viscosity, the temps in Egypt are very high in summer reaches 50 Celsius sometimes but mostly 30-40 Celsius and never ever has it dropped below 0 as in winter it goes to 10 Celsius

Can you get a full synthetic straight grade, since your low temps don't go below 0c? If not, sounds like you got a handle on things and Amsoil it is (weird that no other Xw50 is available🤔..but oh well).



Closet thing i found was a semi-synthetic brand mannol 15w50, if i am flushing engine every oil change and i will flush again and switch to Amsoil how long to run it to be on safe side and keep in mind dust and traffic here is insane

If dust and particulates are a big problem, I hope you're paying as much attention to the filtering efficiency of both your air and oil filter. Particulates will ruin an oil, even Amsoil, quickly. Causing all sorts of problems. That said, I'm not in the best position to tell you how long to run your first couple oil changes.. that's something for you to decide. But in general they should be on the shorter side at least for the next couple changes to prevent that sludge issue... maybe 5km??That sounds prudent unless someone else has something to add. This is what I would do if switching over to a full syn after the engines been on a steady diet of mineral oil for some time. This is also recommend by oil mfgs.

Btw, when you say "flushes" are you meaning to say a chemical flush is done or are you just saying that the entire crankcase is drained???
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by Espada
Originally Posted by OilUzer
What is the price difference between the two oil? Dino/mineral/conventional vs. Amsoil in your country?
That may help the answer!

btw, lots of cars in the world run on conventional oil ... I'm guessing most cars in the world are running conventional. I'm running conventional right now in 3 out of 4 cars ... lol


Mineral costs 205 EGP Amsoil cost 700 EGP but cost isn't the issue here i am talking about the best oil for my car


if cost is not an issue ... Then let's assume that both oil are free and/or exact same price.
Under that assumption, I would use Amsoil over ANY mineral/conventional.

As far as syn being safe, it depends on what you mean by safe? I have a 1997 car (same year as yours) and it burns oil with syn or syn-blend but not with dino. Yours is a rebuilt so you may not have that same problem! I've also read that some say to use dino to break-in a rebuilt engine. I am sure experts will chime in.
 
Originally Posted by OilUzer

if cost is not an issue ... Then let's assume that both oil are free and/or exact same price.
Under that assumption, I would use Amsoil over ANY mineral/conventional.

Agreed..if money is not a factor, the OP could easily do worse than running Amsoil.
 
My car model is 1997 but engine was rebuilt 20000km ago i have been running 20w50 mineral oil since then and by flushing i mean that i add a bottle of engine flush before changing oil and filter and run it on idle for 15 mints to prevent any deposits from staying behind and to make new oil run better and since i knew about the benefits and how much better synthetic oil is i wanna give it a try but i never had an experience with it before and for air filter i change it every 7000km to be safe even if its good to go
 
I'd be using the best oil filter I could get my hands on too...why spend all that money on oil if you're gonna use a cheap filter when the filter is arguably as important as the oil being used... You don't think using a chemical flush every oil change is a bit excessive? I have no idea what kind of flush you're using but some can use harsh solvents and I'd be worried about subjecting rubber seals to the flush so often. Seems to me if you're changing the oil regularly and more frequently, not less while using a high efficiency oil and air filter that chemical flushes every oil change shouldn't be necessary every oil change. But that's just me...

Fwiw, I'm not trying to beat you up about your routine, it sounds like you're more knowledgeable than the avg person.. I'm just trying to get a better handle on why you're doing a couple things.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by Espada
My car model is 1997 but engine was rebuilt 20000km ago i have been running 20w50 mineral oil since then and by flushing i mean that i add a bottle of engine flush before changing oil and filter and run it on idle for 15 mints to prevent any deposits from staying behind and to make new oil run better and since i knew about the benefits and how much better synthetic oil is i wanna give it a try but i never had an experience with it before and for air filter i change it every 7000km to be safe even if its good to go

Sounds to me like you might be killing it with kindness with that flush at every oil change.
 
Originally Posted by demarpaint
Originally Posted by Espada
My car model is 1997 but engine was rebuilt 20000km ago i have been running 20w50 mineral oil since then and by flushing i mean that i add a bottle of engine flush before changing oil and filter and run it on idle for 15 mints to prevent any deposits from staying behind and to make new oil run better and since i knew about the benefits and how much better synthetic oil is i wanna give it a try but i never had an experience with it before and for air filter i change it every 7000km to be safe even if its good to go

Sounds to me like you might be killing it with kindness with that flush at every oil change.

Right! I'd be servicing the oil on a severe service schedule if particulates are that big of an issue. Oils cheap, engines aren't.

(run a full dino or syn blend and change it out every 5k miles.. and spare the engine the flushes..but again, that's just me)
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
Originally Posted by demarpaint
Originally Posted by Espada
My car model is 1997 but engine was rebuilt 20000km ago i have been running 20w50 mineral oil since then and by flushing i mean that i add a bottle of engine flush before changing oil and filter and run it on idle for 15 mints to prevent any deposits from staying behind and to make new oil run better and since i knew about the benefits and how much better synthetic oil is i wanna give it a try but i never had an experience with it before and for air filter i change it every 7000km to be safe even if its good to go

Sounds to me like you might be killing it with kindness with that flush at every oil change.

Right! I'd be servicing the oil on a severe service schedule if particulates are that big of an issue. Oils cheap, engines aren't.

(run a full dino or syn blend and change it out every 5k miles.. and spare the engine the flushes..but again, that's just me)


I thought thats a good idea as mineral oils which I used all the time have a reputation that they leave sludge behind and the main reason i wanna switch to synthetic is to have a better cleaning process, now if i want to switch how to do it safely and how often should i use flush, as for first and 2nd oil changes to synthetic should i keep intervals at 5000km and push it to 7500k and keep going steadily till 10000km and i use genuine oil filter for the car.

I appreciate all the help you guys are giving me and not feeling any heat or bashing coming from your words i only see guidance and really wanting to help me out
 
This is a taxi?
I don't know if your engine is "sludge prone" but the heat you describe does sound like it deserves synthetic.

Ask others how long they they keep their air filters in service. 7,000 km sounds too short a time.
Is your filter housing a plastic box? If so, these boxes actually provide a velocity drop which lets much of the dirt precipitate out.
The air enters the bottom through a hole. Then the part of the box beneath the filter panel is so large the air's velocity drops. This causes big dirt particles to fall away.
How much fine dirt the filter finally traps is THE QUESTION.

You need a friend to bring oil when they come visit. Hard to believe the 20W-50 is your only option. Are other selections in consumer goods similarly limited?

And you're in a city.
 
Originally Posted by Kira
This is a taxi?
I don't know if your engine is "sludge prone" but the heat you describe does sound like it deserves synthetic.

Ask others how long they they keep their air filters in service. 7,000 km sounds too short a time.
Is your filter housing a plastic box? If so, these boxes actually provide a velocity drop which lets much of the dirt precipitate out.
The air enters the bottom through a hole. Then the part of the box beneath the filter panel is so large the air's velocity drops. This causes big dirt particles to fall away.
How much fine dirt the filter finally traps is THE QUESTION.

You need a friend to bring oil when they come visit. Hard to believe the 20W-50 is your only option. Are other selections in consumer goods similarly limited?

And you're in a city.


No its not a taxi its a private car ...‚

And as per the car manual from -10 Celsius to 50 Celsius i should use 20w50 or 20w40 haven't seen any 20w40 so i am using 20w50 and i live in Egypt Cairo which one of the busiest city in all of Egypt, i tried 10w40 castrol magnatic which is semi-synthetic in summer and it was burned off at a fast rate didn't even last 5000km while it should last 10000km

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I think easing into full syn is prudent. I know Mobil for example, recommends the first 2 oci's be done around 3k miles when going from mineral to full syn. Now you could argue that your engine is squeaky clean with all the flushes you've been doing and that a "transition" period from mineral to full syn is probably not necessary. I think that's a valid argument but ultimately you're gonna have to make the decision to forgo the transition or not. If it were me, I would transition... what's the harm (besides "wasting" expensive oil), right?

Have you ever considered doing a couple of used oil analysis with particle count? It might tell you a lot about how well your filtration system is working (or not working) and give you better visibility into the proper oil and oci for your car and climate. Consider it insurance on that engine rebuild.

Btw..I had a Lancer OZ when it came out (before I had kids ...‚)... I didn't have it too long because I had a pretty bad accident in it but it was a great little car with good gas mileage.
 
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Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
I think easing into full syn is prudent. I know Mobil for example, recommends the first 2 oci's be done around 3k miles when going from mineral to full syn. Now you could argue that your engine is squeaky clean with all the flushes you've been doing and that a "transition" period from mineral to full syn is probably not necessary. I think that's a valid argument but ultimately you're gonna have to make the decision to forgo the transition or not. If it were me, I would transition... what's the harm (besides "wasting" expensive oil), right?

Have you ever considered doing a couple of used oil analysis with particle count? It might tell you a lot about how well your filtration system is working (or not working) and give you better visibility into the proper oil and oci for your car and climate. Consider it insurance on that engine rebuild.

Btw..I had a Lancer OZ when it came out (before I had kids ...‚)... I didn't have it too long because I had a pretty bad accident in it but it was a great little car with good gas mileage.




Don't know if we have labs to test oil for individuals ...… do you recommend semi-synthetic for 3000km then a synthetic for 5000km then push for more
 
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