HDEO Rotella T6 5w40 in a gas engine auto

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I am thinking of using some Rotella T6 5w40 in a Mini Cooper. I have a few gallons in the garage, and no longer have a diesel engine. It is rated CJ4 and CK4.
 
Originally Posted by Garak
Does it spec an A3/B4 type oil or ILSAC originally? If so, and there are no warranty concerns, go for it. I even ran an E7, E9 5w-40 in warranty, despite spec.


Interestingly enough- reading the back label says it has "special blend of additives to protect catalytic converters", even though it does not list any Sx or Ax certifications. The back-label language is not found on the Shell PDF for the product, found at
https://rotella.shell.com/en_us/pro...1ea73920ac535f0c62343d6043f/t6-5w-40.pdf
 
Yes, and, of course, owing to that and similar wording on competitors' products, the panic swings both ways. For some people 801 ppm phosphorus is too much for a gasser and worthy of going elsewhere. Others see emissions system wording on an HDEO label (the wording goes back at least as far as CJ-4) and all of a sudden it's somehow a watered down automotive low SAPS type brew, whereas even a real low SAPS E6 lubricant will have phosphorus at the upper limits, SA at the upper limit, and TBN in excess of anything this side of a legacy HDEO or an A3/B4.

An ordinary HDEO like T6 5w-40 will have no more phosphorus than a robust A3/B4. Of course, some A3/B4 lubes will have less phosphorus than others, and the same applies to HDEOs. Assuming the Mini doesn't actually need something like a C3 (i.e. a diesel DPF), there's no concern.
 
I've followed most of these posts on T6 5w40 because I'm switching to annual changes (was doing two a year, 10w30 summer, 5w30 winter) in my 89 5.7 and need a 5wXX for the cold winter days but I'm confused on the CK-4 and CJ-4. A few days ago SR5 posted this:

Rotella T6 5W40
CJ4 ~ 1390 ppm
CK4 ~ 1199 ppm

But I can not find T6 that lists only CJ-4, all the jugs I see have both ratings on it, so how does a guy know for sure what you're getting. I know being stock I don't need the extra ZDDP or at least buying into that side of the argument but I like the idea of using it.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by rubberchicken
I am thinking of using some Rotella T6 5w40 in a Mini Cooper.


Millions of turbo Subaru owners RUN NOTHING but T6!

so, pour away.....
 
Originally Posted by Duffyjr
But I can not find T6 that lists only CJ-4, all the jugs I see have both ratings on it, so how does a guy know for sure what you're getting. I know being stock I don't need the extra ZDDP or at least buying into that side of the argument but I like the idea of using it.

I suspect that any T6 CJ-4 you find in 5w-40 will be old stock. The main lines of Shell (and all the majors) have been upgraded. To find a CJ-4, you'd have to get something like the 0w-40, which hasn't yet been upgraded. Mobil has some like that, where Delvac 1 LE 5w-30 is still CJ-4 (and has a replacement product now in CK-4) and Delvac Elite 222 0w-30 is also not CK-4.

All the T6 would have been CJ-4/SM (CJ-4/SN for the 0w-40) and the S ratings are gone except for the 5w-30.
 
Originally Posted by Garak
Originally Posted by Duffyjr
But I can not find T6 that lists only CJ-4, all the jugs I see have both ratings on it, so how does a guy know for sure what you're getting. I know being stock I don't need the extra ZDDP or at least buying into that side of the argument but I like the idea of using it.

I suspect that any T6 CJ-4 you find in 5w-40 will be old stock. The main lines of Shell (and all the majors) have been upgraded. To find a CJ-4, you'd have to get something like the 0w-40, which hasn't yet been upgraded. Mobil has some like that, where Delvac 1 LE 5w-30 is still CJ-4 (and has a replacement product now in CK-4) and Delvac Elite 222 0w-30 is also not CK-4.

All the T6 would have been CJ-4/SM (CJ-4/SN for the 0w-40) and the S ratings are gone except for the 5w-30.


Thank you!
 
The type of ZDDP used in HDEOs is less toxic to catalytic converters and other emissions equipment but is also less effective for anti-wear.

There's around 50 different types of ZDDP considering primary, secondary, or aryl type, long or short chaining, low or high molecular weight, etc... and that's not including blending of different types. Because of this, just looking at the Zn and P ppm can be somewhat misleading. 1200 ppm Zn/P from short-chained secondary ZDDP is going to be far more reactive and better for anti-wear than 1200 ppm Zn/P from long-chained primary ZDDP, for example, but will also increase friction and be more toxic to emissions systems.

I see nothing wrong with using T6 in your application since you already have it. It's not something I'd go out of my way to get though.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by RDY4WAR
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I see nothing wrong with using T6 in your application since you already have it. It's not something I'd go out of my way to get though.

Funny, when I bought my T6, I was not sure what I was going to use it in, the I bought the Santa Fe, so figured why not.
 
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