ZRX1200 Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w50, 5065 miles

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Title says it all, compare to the oils in the columns to the right, they are labeled. My main interest was how it compared to Mobil 1 10w40 4T Racing.

Recap, put new high compression pistons in 10,000 miles ago, so this OCI started about 5,000 miles after pistons were installed.

I see what Blackstone says about the aluminum, however I am wondering if aluminum should be coming down more on this second major oil run after initial break-in?

Otherwise I see that it did not thicken up, which I was interested in because it thickens up in the air cooled twins, but obviously a liquid cooled engine is treating this oil differently. As well it stayed right in the middle of grade.

Zinc and phosphorus are way lower than what Mobil advertises (1750z/1600p). Can someone tell me if these are sacrificial additives or if there is simply that much variance in either the analysis or what Mobil actually puts into the oil itself?

Okay, let the collective chime in and the input begin in terms of any discussion or questions.

IMG_20190809_161313.jpg
 
Which weight do you prefer? I just tried 20W50 for the first time in my ZRX, and the shift feel improved...the difference is noticeable, but not drastic.
 
I think the 20w50 is spec'd for that bike but from my experience a modern 10w40 will hold up just fine in a liquid cooled engine and i dont know if it's just in my head but the bike seems a little more rev happy with the 10w40.
 
Originally Posted by JmanG
I think the 20w50 is spec'd for that bike


Kawasaki specs either weight.
 
All the posts are correct so far in terms of the specified weight. Kawasaki calls 10w40 as the main choice, but also shows a bar chart with the different viscosities and temperature ranges that we have all seen at one time or another.

Fellow ZRX riders like that the 20w50 gets the oil pressure up a bit as the ZRX is known to have "low" oil pressure with 10w40 at idle when hot. From the wear numbers you can see it probably doesn't make much difference.

The 10w40 4T gives the engine a more revvy nature and shifting is more crisp with the 10w40 4T. With the 20w50 shift quality never fell off, but is just more "snicky" with the 10w40. Which is to be expected given the used analysis cSt of 18.84 for 20w50 vs virgin cSt of 13.4 for 10w40 4T in terms of the back-to-back comparison.

TBN was 6.4 for the 20w50 and 6.5 for the 10w40 4T. That's a crazy amount of additive left in either oil after a nominal 5000 mile run for each.

Makes me want to push the interval out another thousand miles, maybe more because now I am curious how long either oil could go.

Kawasaki does state a 5,000 mile oci, but the analysis shows these oils aren't even close to being done.

I am really impressed with Mobil 1 motorcycle oils. I think they must have something other than group III synthetics, probably some group IV ester content with the way they hold up on viscosity in a shared sump and shift quality.
 
Thanks for posting your results. I don't think I could let one go 5k without a change. I would have a break down before then lol.
 
LOL, you would have a breakdown in an OCD mental way, because the bike sure isn't going to notice.
smile.gif


I've just done 5,000 miles, two OCI's in a row. I took the guesswork out of it for you. For crap sake, the TBN on both oils was not even 1/3 depleted based on a VOA.

Both of our bikes have the Nikasil coated cylinder liner. I use rocker arms to work the valves, you use a shim under bucket. Otherwise there's no reason not to extend your drain interval out, other than extreme hard running at the track/strip or land speed stuff... You will seriously be throwing away good oil. The proof is in the analysis, that's why we come to this site, to make ourselves feel good about not wasting motor. It is only for the sake of our fragile egos we change oil monotonously too soon, has nothing to do with what the bike needs.
 
bonz,
if you are getting alum in your oil from the pistons ... as the stoners seem to be claiming ...
the either
the pistons were the wrong size
the piston material is wrong
the piston wrist pin area is wearing too fast
the assmebly was entirely done wrong
OR
the stoners are smoking a bit too much crack and its really the clutch basket

if your pistons were wearing that much in 5k ... soon they would be a rockin' n a knockin'
 
Thanks for that input. The pistons have been in just over 10,000 miles. The ZRX's as a rule have an issue with the starter chain tensioner beginning to fail and the chain hitting the clutch basket and nicking the outside. I installed a tensioner fix built by a ZRX forum member that has taken up the proper slack and I don't believe I have any problems with that currently. The tensioner has been in about 15,000 miles now so it shouldn't be in play with any residual effect from when the starter chain was nicking the outside of the clutch basket. But nothing is sacred or for sure, I'm always open for thoughts.

So you're thinking, at least at this point, I shouldn't have any undue residual aluminum wear from the piston install? This oil was in for piston miles 4,603- 9,658 (5,065 miles).

I've done Pistons, before and I feel pretty comfortable things are in properly. I would think there would be something major by 10,000 miles if it wasn't done right, is that proper to say? I lubed the wrist pins, measured deck height/piston to head clearance, piston to valve clearance, everything inside of there should be right where it needs to be.

I look at the ZX12R analysis that we've been talking about recently in another thread. He has about 6,000 miles on the bike now and aluminum was really high after the most recent 1,100 or so miles. granted his are stock pistons however it is a very similar internal set up with the nickel-plated boards.
 
bonz,
to be perfectly clear.
i was not implying the first 4, but the last (or 5th) choice as the real culprit ie crack smoking stoners

actually it can still be the clutch basket, just not how you are thinking.
its the inside of the fingers that are wearing. where the fiber disks hold onto the basket.
your filter flakes are just like dozens ive seen before and all from clutch basket fingers
if that was your piston skirt...you wouldnt have a piston skirt anymore

as the fingers begin to wear...the wear accelerates

steve
 
LOL, sorry I caught the tone all wrong in your post!

I didn't post a picture of filter flakes, not sure on that?

Anyway, I appreciate the chance to go back and forth with you.

If anybody wants to order V-Twin 20w50 or 10w40 4T, the pep boys eBay store has it on sale for $7.47/qt with free shipping. My 10w40 4T arrived today.
 
hmmm i must have crossposted in my head lol

but again the alum and what the stoners say is clutch basket its NOT piston skirt
the copper and tin (ie brass) are from the clutch basket bushing
 
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