15 Forester 2.5 PP 5w-30 whirring at 1500rpm

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Mar 1, 2012
Messages
836
Location
HUdson Valley, NY
2015 Forester 2.5 calls for 0W-20 oil. I have been using 5w-30 during the summer for the last 3 years. Last 2 years I used PUP. I had no issues whatsoever, never felt any difference due to the different weight oil.

This year I could not find it on the shelves so got Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30. Since I put this oil, there is a subtle whirring sound at 1500 rpm. I am not able to describe the sound exactly but feels like there is more friction somewhere. I can feel that vibration in the accelerator pedal. I do not hear the sound or feel anything in the pedal below or above 1500rpm.

There is no other difference. The car drives just fine. The mileage is pretty much the same.

Any idea what am I dealing with? The easiest option would be to change the oil back to 0w-20. This oil has 4000 miles on it (~80% highway miles) and next planned oil change is in late Oct. What should be the best course of action here?

Thanks in advance.
 
I really, really doubt it has anything to so with the oil. PUP and PP are very similar anyway.

Sounds like something else, engine mounts? CVT?

How much mileage?
 
Did you use the same brand oil filter? It could be a mechanical issue. Different brand filter, I might consider changing back to what was used previously.
 
@jbutch, the mileage is 35310. I hope it's not CVT

@demarpaint, I have only used the Subaru oil filter, change it at every oil change.
 
Originally Posted by MoneyJohn
2015 Forester 2.5 calls for 0W-20 oil. I have been using 5w-30 during the summer for the last 3 years. Last 2 years I used PUP. I had no issues whatsoever, never felt any difference due to the different weight oil.

This year I could not find it on the shelves so got Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30. Since I put this oil, there is a subtle whirring sound at 1500 rpm. I am not able to describe the sound exactly but feels like there is more friction somewhere. I can feel that vibration in the accelerator pedal. I do not hear the sound or feel anything in the pedal below or above 1500rpm.

There is no other difference. The car drives just fine. The mileage is pretty much the same.

Any idea what am I dealing with? The easiest option would be to change the oil back to 0w-20. This oil has 4000 miles on it (~80% highway miles) and next planned oil change is in late Oct. What should be the best course of action here?

Thanks in advance.

Might be fluttering ADBV. Try a different filter. Easy to change.

I havent been happy with some of the new formulation and dexos stuff. Its not quite right in some engines. To many changes with out enough proving.
 
engine oils rarely cause issues when changed on a timely basis except when a very thin read 20W is pushed to hard + it thins to a 10W. newer subies are not as good as older ones especially if it has a constantly variable troublesome tranny!!
 
Originally Posted by MoneyJohn
@jbutch, the mileage is 35310. I hope it's not CVT

@demarpaint, I have only used the Subaru oil filter, change it at every oil change.

Then I doubt the problem is with the oil or the filter.
 
I would check underneath the car. Is the splash shield secure? Maybe you picked up something on the road that got stuck underneath and is causing this noise?
 
We had mice under the intake. there is quite a large flat mouse motel area under there.

Then you have VVT giving up the ghost and cam tensioners sticking.

All this seems to happen with a dry start after an oil change.

Of course These top filter are ALWAYS EMPTY in a couple minutes after shutdown.

It could be timing chain racket. Happens all the time. - except on small Honda 4 bangers.
 
Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
We had mice under the intake. there is quite a large flat mouse motel area under there.
Then you have VVT giving up the ghost and cam tensioners sticking.
All this seems to happen with a dry start after an oil change.
Of course These top filter are ALWAYS EMPTY in a couple minutes after shutdown.
It could be timing chain racket. Happens all the time. - except on small Honda 4 bangers.

I gotta disagree with you here, ARCO!
My daughter complained that her Impreza was hard to start after sitting all day at school just after my wife got it a cheap oil change where they used a filter with no ADBV....I put a Subie blue can or WIX 57055 (can't remember which) in it and no more complaints.
When I do a change on my FXT, a lot of oil still comes out of my filter after I drain the pan....I'd guess it's usually about 10 minutes between pulling the plug and taking the filter off.
I think the ADBV maintains a column of oil for a long time even with the top mounted filter.

IDK, maybe some weird gravitational effect from you being further North than me and closer to the mountains in NH?
;^)
 
Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
We had mice under the intake. there is quite a large flat mouse motel area under there.

Then you have VVT giving up the ghost and cam tensioners sticking.

All this seems to happen with a dry start after an oil change.

Of course These top filter are ALWAYS EMPTY in a couple minutes after shutdown.

It could be timing chain racket. Happens all the time. - except on small Honda 4 bangers.


A high quality silicone ABDV made a huge difference versus the stock nitrile one on cold startup.
 
Over three engines during multiple OC's, never, EVER was there substantially any oil in the filter when removed. All being Framaroo Blue cans.

It must be the Magnetic North effect
smile.gif


So, Jbutch You recommend the Fram XG in your signature?

I think it's too late for this engine - I'm not going aftermarket with it acting up.
It has one of those silly dealer "Lifetime engine warranties" Maybe will wee see if that's really worth anything.
 
Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
Over three engines during multiple OC's, never, EVER was there substantially any oil in the filter when removed. All being Framaroo Blue cans.

It must be the Magnetic North effect
smile.gif


So, Jbutch You recommend the Fram XG in your signature?

I think it's too late for this engine - I'm not going aftermarket with it acting up.
It has one of those silly dealer "Lifetime engine warranties" Maybe will wee see if that's really worth anything.



It's the first I use it, definitely feels more robust and I seen a lots of C&P and they all seems fine.

Only downside is that it is not the correct bypass pressure. But supposebly it has more flow.... not too worried about that.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top