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M1 AFE 0w-30. Is it all that? #5185413 08/12/19 08:52 PM
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noclutch Offline OP
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" Mobil 1 0W-30 is recommended by ExxonMobil for SAE 0W-30, 5W-30 and 10W-30 applications"

Seems like a broad statement to say the least. I've read their quality, builder approval and meets or exceeds stuff.
https://www.mobil.com/english-us/passenger-vehicle-lube/pds/glxxmobil-1-0w30

But is it all that? Or are they just casting a broad marketing net?

Not trying to bash them is I don't know jack actually. Just seems their statements are a bit far reaching?

Re: M1 AFE 0w-30. Is it all that? [Re: noclutch] #5185418 08/12/19 09:01 PM
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gathermewool Offline
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To keep things simple, all of your quoted Mobil oils will be at approximately the same viscosity while the engine is warmed up.

Might I suggest you do some more reading on the subject to allay your concerns, which have not been listed...


'14 Forester XT FA20DIT (Cobb Stage 1)
Edge 0W-40 + FU filter (64,774 miles)
'15 Legacy FB25 (OEM Stage, uh, neg. 7?)
Magnatec 5W-20 + FU filter (47,300 miles)
Re: M1 AFE 0w-30. Is it all that? [Re: noclutch] #5185419 08/12/19 09:02 PM
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donnyj08 Offline
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Itโ€™s a perfectly fine substitute for ILSAC 5w30 and 10w30 applications if thatโ€™s what you are asking.


Last edited by donnyj08; 08/12/19 09:03 PM.

2008 Silverado Z71 LT 98k Maxlife FS 5w30
2010 Ford Escape 196k QSUD 5w20
2016 Yamaha XSR900 13k, Spectro 10w40, Yamaha Filter.
Re: M1 AFE 0w-30. Is it all that? [Re: donnyj08] #5185430 08/12/19 09:16 PM
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noclutch Offline OP
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And 0w30 too?

Re: M1 AFE 0w-30. Is it all that? [Re: noclutch] #5185431 08/12/19 09:21 PM
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Cujet Offline
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As a general rule, yes the statement has some value.

However, there clearly are engines that will need a more robust oil. A great example would be a hard working, air cooled engine in a hot climate. The 0W-30 may not be up to the task.

0W-30 has an HTHS (viscosity at 150c) of 3.0.

M1 10W-30 High Mileage has an HTHS of 3.5

and

Most straight viscosity 30 oils (think old school) have an HTHS of 3.5 to 3.8.

While Mobil does not publish ingredients, it's good to note that most 0W-whatever oils contain significant additives such as pour point depressants and viscosity index improvers. This means these oils MAY over time, shear more readily in some applications.

I find that plain old Mobil 1, 10W-30 is more shear stable in my vehicles than the 5W or 0W-30 or 0W-40 oils.

Last edited by Cujet; 08/12/19 09:23 PM.

People who count on their fingers should maintain a discreet silence.
Re: M1 AFE 0w-30. Is it all that? [Re: gathermewool] #5185439 08/12/19 09:34 PM
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noclutch Offline OP
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Gathermewool- Thanks and yes Iโ€™m reading lots here and on corperate websites. ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿป But I am a relative newb.

The link above only references and pertains to AFE 0w-30, none others quoted.


Good stuff cujet thank you too ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿป

Last edited by noclutch; 08/12/19 09:37 PM.
Re: M1 AFE 0w-30. Is it all that? [Re: noclutch] #5185445 08/12/19 09:43 PM
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SteveG4 Online Content
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Nicely said, Cujet. smile


Somewhere between Alaska and Wisconsin...
2006 Silverado LT Crew Cab 4WD & 2013 Equinox AWD
Re: M1 AFE 0w-30. Is it all that? [Re: SteveG4] #5185451 08/12/19 09:59 PM
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LotI Offline
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Originally Posted by Cujet
As a general rule, yes the statement has some value.

However, there clearly are engines that will need a more robust oil. A great example would be a hard working, air cooled engine in a hot climate. The 0W-30 may not be up to the task.

0W-30 has an HTHS (viscosity at 150c) of 3.0.

M1 10W-30 High Mileage has an HTHS of 3.5

and

Most straight viscosity 30 oils (think old school) have an HTHS of 3.5 to 3.8.

While Mobil does not publish ingredients, it's good to note that most 0W-whatever oils contain significant additives such as pour point depressants and viscosity index improvers. This means these oils MAY over time, shear more readily in some applications.

I find that plain old Mobil 1, 10W-30 is more shear stable in my vehicles than the 5W or 0W-30 or 0W-40 oils.


approved


03 Honda Interceptor
11 Kawasaki KLR 650
12 Ford E450 Cutaway
19 Buick Regal TourX Essence http://www.fuelly.com/car/buick/regal_tourx/2019/loti/943992
Re: M1 AFE 0w-30. Is it all that? [Re: noclutch] #5185467 08/12/19 10:36 PM
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tig1 Offline
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I have never used M1 0-30 but I have put some 500K on their 0-20 line in Fords with great results.


2007 Ford Fusion 246,000 miles
M1 5-20HM
2017 Ford Fusion 75K
M1 0-20EP
10,000 mile OCIs on both engines
M1 ATF and Valvoline LV
M1 10-30 in all OPE
MC filters

Re: M1 AFE 0w-30. Is it all that? [Re: noclutch] #5185475 08/12/19 10:54 PM
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geeman789 Offline
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Originally Posted by noclutch
" Mobil 1 0W-30 is recommended by ExxonMobil for SAE 0W-30, 5W-30 and 10W-30 applications"


But is it all that? Or are they just casting a broad marketing net?




YES, it is all that. Sort of ...

The 0W designation is a winter rating, earned by an oil NOT exceeding maximum viscosity limits at standardized temperatures. For an 0W oil, these temps are - 35 *c ( - 31* F) and - 40 *c ( -40*F) as in EXTREME COLD temps. So the oil works well when cold starting in extreme winter temps.

The " 30 " is the hot ( 100*C ... 212*F ) grade. This oil has a hot viscosity of 10.9 cSt, between the 30 grade range of 9.3 and 12.4 cSt at 100*C.

So, YES, this oil is " all of that ... " . It works very well at extreme cold temps, AND falls into the 30 grade hot viscosity range. So what's not to like ?

Well, getting that 0W rating is difficult. No conventional oil can do it. And even full synthetics need some help, in the form of a thinner base oil, or more expensive base oils, and MORE pour point depressants and viscosity index improvers. These additives can break down under use, causing the oil to shear down and get thinner with use, and possibly leave deposits in the engine.

So, if you don't NEED the extreme cold temperature performance, using a 5w or 10w oil might be a better choice, as the oil will tend to be more stable in use, starting off with a thicker base oil and using less additives.


That being said, many of the 0W oils are very well built, using more of the more expensive base oils and higher quality additive packages and VII groups. Mobil 1 0W40, for example, meets some of the toughest industry standards, including Mercedes MB 229.5 and Porsche A40.


Last edited by geeman789; 08/12/19 10:58 PM.

2011 SUBARU Impreza 5-door manual / 2016 HONDA Pilot / 2011 MAZDA 2 auto
Re: M1 AFE 0w-30. Is it all that? [Re: noclutch] #5185503 08/13/19 12:09 AM
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JLTD Offline
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popcorn


I use the overseas manual to choose my oil viscosity.

Using AMSOIL

Hers: 2008 Jeep Liberty 149k, SS5w30/Amsoil

His: 2015 4Runner 55k, SS 5w20/Amsoil

Re: M1 AFE 0w-30. Is it all that? [Re: noclutch] #5185537 08/13/19 02:39 AM
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Garak Offline
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Originally Posted by noclutch
But is it all that? Or are they just casting a broad marketing net?

It's fair to assume that one ILSAC 30 is interchangeable with another, climate permitting. I used 5w-30 energy conserving oils where 10w-30 energy conserving was originally specified all along, given my climate. Had said vehicles been running synthetics (they weren't) and I were running Mobil 1 and M1 0w-30 were available (it wasn't) I likely would have used it. M1 0w-30 isn't a replacement for a 10w-30 HDEO, for certain, but as a broad rule, where one ILSAC 30 is specified, the 0w-30 ILSAC will work. The HTHS of the ILSAC lubes will be much the same. That of a monograde or an HDEO will be different.

Note that similarly, General Motors some time ago got rid of AC Delco 5w-20 and stated that AC Delco 0w-20 should be used in all their 5w-20 applications.


Plain, simple Garak.

2008 Infiniti G37 - Shell ROTELLA T6 Multi-Vehicle 5w-30, Wix 57356
1984 F-150 4.9L - Quaker State GB 10w-30, Wix 51515
Re: M1 AFE 0w-30. Is it all that? [Re: noclutch] #5185577 08/13/19 05:53 AM
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jongies3 Offline
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Ran this 10,000 miles in my Tacoma and had a UOA, didn't shear out of grade at all so it's very robust.


2004 Toyota Tacoma 3.4 V6: Mobil 1 AFE 0W-30, FRAM PH3614 filter
2003 Buick Park Avenue Ultra S/C 3.8 V6: PYB 10W-30, FRAM COR3387 filter
2013 Honda 400EX ATV: Mobil 1 Racing 4t 10W-40, OEM filter
Re: M1 AFE 0w-30. Is it all that? [Re: noclutch] #5185626 08/13/19 06:58 AM
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ARCOgraphite Offline
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ILSAC oils in general aren't "all that" so neither is the M1 0W-30AFE.

The KV100 viscosity as little to do with the film strength or robustness of the oil in hard service.

if your car will experience sub zero starts often, it would be a choice,

but since it is NOT a true synthetic it wont perform nearly as well as say
a Motul Eco-Nergy 5w30 8100 which is knocking on the door of the 20 grade range and had been in the past
a majority PAO.


2019 VW Jetta S 6MT OCI#1 5885mi-Castrol Edge Prof? VW508+VW Service Filter; '17 Subaru Crosstrek CVT OC#7 52665mi-Castrol GTX Magnatec 5W20 + SOA Filter
Re: M1 AFE 0w-30. Is it all that? [Re: noclutch] #5185662 08/13/19 07:46 AM
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0W30 AFE better be all that and more because I just bought some last night!!!
;^)

I ran it last winter season and I couldn't tell it from all the synth 5W30s I have used in the past...didn't really expect to notice a difference and we actually never had a really good cold spell in the Whites that season, anyway, at least not when I was up there to ski.
Won't need the oil until November or so, but it was on rollback at WM and I wanted to grab the rebate while it was still in effect...although now I am thinking that maybe I already got two checks from XOM in this period! We'll see what happens.

Running PP 5W30 as of a few weeks ago as PB had a nice sale and rebate offer for it (still waiting on the rebate) and I was a little disturbed when I drained the M1 10W30 HM out.
I can't swear that the oil came out of the car looking like this as I wipe off my drain pan well enough but don't sterilize it....but, I noticed a fair amount of scummy grey/black stuff floating on top of the old oil when I went to pour it into the empty 5l PP jug.
Have never seen anything like this before, would have taken a pic but I was blocking my daughter's car in the garage and wanted to finish up ASAP. Maybe looked a little bit like when you are trying to stir a powdered drink mix into water or milk and some of it bunches up and floats on top. Definitely was not just bubbles and also struck me as stuff that should have gotten filtered...
This was also the first OCI in which I noticed some signs of oil usage, just a bit but it seemed to be a new phenomenon. I would guess the oil and engine were both just fine, but I'm not sure I'll use 10W30 HM again...I'm sure it's possible there was some "cleaning" going on, but I can't imagine my engine was really dirty after a steady diet of M1 5W30 and some other good synth oils. I still have the filter, maybe I should figure out how to cut it open and see what's in there?
I will definitely keep an eye on the dipstick for signs of consumption in the future and will be prepared to snap some pics of the PP 5W30 when it comes out in in case it looks "funny".


2014 Forester XT, 105000 miles
Last Change;
PP 5w30 d1G2
Tokyo Roki 15208AA170 filter
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