5.4 3V New motor- 5w30 or 0w40?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Apr 1, 2008
Messages
4,167
Location
Arizona
My F150 is currently in the shop getting a new Ford Long block. I bought the truck with 97K and a good history but this stuff happens! Very happy I purchased a powertrain warranty on it. Based on some recommendations from both this board as well as Ford techs(one of which is Fordtechmakuloco on YT), I will not be running 5w20. Most of the recommendations seem to be for 5w30.

My question is should I stick with a Syn 5w30 or something like M1 0w40? Any benefit in these 3 valves with the 0w40? Not trying to start a viscosity war here, just curious what some of your guys thoughts are or if anyone has experience with these motors? This motor failed at 103K, so I'm hoping to at least get another 100-150K out of her before it's retired.

Thanks for the feedback

IMG_20190721_161455740.jpg
 
Most 0w40's are super class oils, built right on the edge of the low limits to be a 40 weight cSt 12.5, most of them really spend most of their time as 5w30 in the sump. I wouldn't go Ford spec hunting if you are trying to gauge quality. Look at mercedes and porsche spec, those specs encourage the manu's to use higher quality base oils. Put it this way, it is easier to find a high quality 0w40 then a 5w30, because 5w30 is hamstrung with regulations thanks to CAFE and the EPA unless you move over to real boutique 5w30. IMO good move getting away from 20 weight. If you go 0w40 for higher ep/aw additives and part pao base oils, look at one with cSt less then 14 for sure, closer to 12.5 better.
 
I use 5W-30 in all my Fords (2000 4.6 2 valve Mustang GT, 2010 3 valve Mustang GT, 2018 5.0 4 valve Coyote Mustang GT). I'm definitely not with thin oil in these motors. They will last a long time with good maintenance, though. Even the 5.3L.
 
Mobil 1 0W40 would be a great choice. I'd say ESP 0W30 or 5W30 would be great choices too, if you're looking for a "thicker full synthetic" 30 grade oil, and don't mind paying up for it.
 
Originally Posted by Miller88
Are you doing a HV oil pump? Or is it just going to be all stock components?


It will be all stock components
 
I use 5W-30 in all my Fords (2000 4.6 2 valve Mustang GT, 2010 3 valve Mustang GT, 2018 5.0 4 valve Coyote Mustang GT). I'm definitely not with thin oil in these motors. They will last a long time with good maintenance, though. Even the 5.4L.
 
An A3/B4 type synthetic would be just fine. So would an E6 like I'm running. Of course, there's nothing wrong with 5w-20 or 0w-20, but you have chosen not to run them, and that's perfectly fine and there definitely are other choices.
 
If I had one of these engines I would use whatever is the best 5w30 synthetic you can find on sale, at no more than 5k miles, or 3k if it's short tripped.

These do not tolerate the extended oil changes so many on here like. Tiny oiling holes plug up and once it happens it's too late from everything I've heard.
 
my 5/30 spec'd Toyotas run perfect on 0/40 cold and 15/40 warm weather...neither use oil.
 
Of the choices posted, 5w-30.
Just curious why not going with the upgraded oil pump?

But I have no issues running 5w-20 in the 3v 5.4 (just do shorter intervals).
My brother in laws '04 with the 3v 5.4 is quieter with 5w-20 than 5w-30. I know the opposite of most, but it is.
21.gif

He is at 173,xxx miles on his (but his oil filter is full of metal for past 20,000 miles).
 
jimmy- the truck had 5w20 prior to me owning it and 40w since i've had it. The only reason i ran a 40w was to try and prolong the inevitable, it just happened so soon!

blupupher- cost partially as well as what the warranty company will pay for. I really didn't want to fight with Ford to use my own part on their motor.
 
So you put 40 grade oil in one spec for 20 grade and engine failed but it was fault of 20 grade oil? Don't over think it go with what is spec and sleep well. Lots of engines use 20 grade oil with hundreds of thousands miles on them still running. 3 in my family running 20 grade 178k, 90k, 10k.
 
Last edited:
My 2009 5.4L currently has 132,000 on it, and it's been on 10W-30 M1 nearly all it's life. No signs of impending doom either.

I did a little UOA testing early on and the 10W-30EP came out on top. Less shear than the M1 5W-30 and slightly lower Fe. These engines do quite well with a higher viscosity, especially in warm climates.

0W-40 is not an ideal choice when compared to some others, as it's often less shear stable due to higher levels of viscosity index improvers.

It's good to keep in mind that the newer Ford replacement parts have addressed the previous faults and are known to hold up quite well.

It's also good to understand exactly why these problems occur in the first place. The oil pumps do tend to leak from the backing plate, especially over time. The cam chain tensioners tend to "blow out" the O-ring seal and leak. The combo starves the heads for oil.

The newer Ford cam phasers have better locking pins and don't make as much noise. But again, the locking pin is designed to retract, so a tight fit is not possible and they will always make a little noise. Oil viscosity plays a role here too, as the pin is cushioned by the oil. Phaser wear can be related to oil particulates. Change your oil regularly.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top