STOP changing your oil so often!
- Thread starter cwhard
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Originally Posted by pitzel
I haven't changed oil since George W. Bush was in office. Nearly 100k km's ago.
With modern DI engines, even longer intervals are quite realistic given how clean such engines burn.
There's even a pretty good argument to be made that frequent oil changes are the cause of many engine related problems, such as intake clogging. I don't know what the term for such is, but in the medical field, such would be called "iatrogenic illness".
You must be kidding! GDI/TGDI engines produce a lot of soot because of incomplete combustion. Take your finger and wipe the inside of the tailpipe. Prepare to be shocked.
I haven't changed oil since George W. Bush was in office. Nearly 100k km's ago.
With modern DI engines, even longer intervals are quite realistic given how clean such engines burn.
There's even a pretty good argument to be made that frequent oil changes are the cause of many engine related problems, such as intake clogging. I don't know what the term for such is, but in the medical field, such would be called "iatrogenic illness".
You must be kidding! GDI/TGDI engines produce a lot of soot because of incomplete combustion. Take your finger and wipe the inside of the tailpipe. Prepare to be shocked.
Originally Posted by turnbowm
Originally Posted by pitzel
With modern DI engines, even longer intervals are quite realistic given how clean such engines burn.
You must be kidding! GDI/TGDI engines produce a lot of soot because of incomplete combustion. Take your finger and wipe the inside of the tailpipe. Prepare to be shocked.
Yep, tail pipes on DI vehicles are dirty, much more than a lot of non-DI vehicles I've seen.
Wasn't one claim of DI engines was that they have lower emissions? I don't see how that can be true when the tail pipe is caked with sooty deposits.
Originally Posted by pitzel
With modern DI engines, even longer intervals are quite realistic given how clean such engines burn.
You must be kidding! GDI/TGDI engines produce a lot of soot because of incomplete combustion. Take your finger and wipe the inside of the tailpipe. Prepare to be shocked.
Yep, tail pipes on DI vehicles are dirty, much more than a lot of non-DI vehicles I've seen.
Wasn't one claim of DI engines was that they have lower emissions? I don't see how that can be true when the tail pipe is caked with sooty deposits.
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
Originally Posted by turnbowm
Originally Posted by pitzel
With modern DI engines, even longer intervals are quite realistic given how clean such engines burn.
You must be kidding! GDI/TGDI engines produce a lot of soot because of incomplete combustion. Take your finger and wipe the inside of the tailpipe. Prepare to be shocked.
Yep, tail pipes on DI vehicles are dirty, much more than a lot of non-DI vehicles I've seen.
Wasn't one claim of DI engines was that they have lower emissions? I don't see how that can be true when the tail pipe is caked with sooty deposits.
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
Originally Posted by turnbowm
Originally Posted by pitzel
With modern DI engines, even longer intervals are quite realistic given how clean such engines burn.
You must be kidding! GDI/TGDI engines produce a lot of soot because of incomplete combustion. Take your finger and wipe the inside of the tailpipe. Prepare to be shocked.
Yep, tail pipes on DI vehicles are dirty, much more than a lot of non-DI vehicles I've seen.
Wasn't one claim of DI engines was that they have lower emissions? I don't see how that can be true when the tail pipe is caked with sooty deposits.
Exactly
My 2012 F150 Ecoboost tail pipe was disgusting
Originally Posted by turnbowm
Originally Posted by pitzel
With modern DI engines, even longer intervals are quite realistic given how clean such engines burn.
You must be kidding! GDI/TGDI engines produce a lot of soot because of incomplete combustion. Take your finger and wipe the inside of the tailpipe. Prepare to be shocked.
Yep, tail pipes on DI vehicles are dirty, much more than a lot of non-DI vehicles I've seen.
Wasn't one claim of DI engines was that they have lower emissions? I don't see how that can be true when the tail pipe is caked with sooty deposits.
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
Originally Posted by turnbowm
Originally Posted by pitzel
With modern DI engines, even longer intervals are quite realistic given how clean such engines burn.
You must be kidding! GDI/TGDI engines produce a lot of soot because of incomplete combustion. Take your finger and wipe the inside of the tailpipe. Prepare to be shocked.
Yep, tail pipes on DI vehicles are dirty, much more than a lot of non-DI vehicles I've seen.
Wasn't one claim of DI engines was that they have lower emissions? I don't see how that can be true when the tail pipe is caked with sooty deposits.
Exactly
My 2012 F150 Ecoboost tail pipe was disgusting
I will be installing an hour meter in my Caravan cause I idle alot with me having to take wife with me on local runs and she is in a wheelchair with her wanting to wait in car with AC on. I went to 2 places today about 30 miles round trip and 2 hours run time according to the clock. So please tell me how many miles months should I change oil where I am not wasting as I figured last oil I will get 4800 in a year. I figured I would do 200 hrs instead
Why pay extra for Amsoil when Dnewton3 and others have shown similar OCIs with a good UOA using say, Halvoline syn blend? I agree there are benefits for some to running extended drains, but Amsoil is just way too pricey for me when you can get great oils for less.
Either way I change mine when the light comes on at 5k, after rebates it's plenty cheap even with M1, PP, etc. Next fill of M1 HM cost me ~$10 for 5 qts. And I'm sure there's life left in it when I drain it at 5k. If I can't get a rebate supertech does great and has a great everyday price.
Either way I change mine when the light comes on at 5k, after rebates it's plenty cheap even with M1, PP, etc. Next fill of M1 HM cost me ~$10 for 5 qts. And I'm sure there's life left in it when I drain it at 5k. If I can't get a rebate supertech does great and has a great everyday price.
Originally Posted by cwhard
I haven't changed my oil for over a year and a half. Simply no need. Would be glad to publish my next Independent Lab Result at the next oil change (in a few months).
Oil: Amsoil Signature Series 0W20
Filter: Amsoil 15,000 mile synthetic media
For you guys still chasing your tails changing oil. If you enjoy the exercise, be my guest! I personally like saving all that spilled oil from the environment...
Put Amsoil in it and forget it!
-Tex
Only ignorant people make a blanket statement like this.
You give no information as to what vehicle, engine, mileage on vehicle, mileage on current interval, no driving conditions (location, short trip, long trip, hills, weather, etc).
You assume everyone else drives exactly like you.
For you, it may work, for others, it does not.
And I am with the others, in the past 20 oil changes I have done, I have "spilled" less than 1 oz of oil (that was absorbed by the cardboard I put under the vehicle, and am still using), and maybe another ounce or two that I have used to wipe things down with. All the rest of my oil is recycled at Auto Zone/Advance Auto.
Originally Posted by cwhard
Gee, didn't mean to ruffle so many feathers. And this wasn't meant to be an advertisement, so my apologizes.
Instead of simply shouting me down, why not offer your own solution? I would be curious as to how many folks are running their oil 1 year ( or 15,000-20K miles) without a worry. PLEASE, share your experiences and you options for a different oil type (if you have one). I am all ears and looking to learn.
But, I'm afraid that most of you are simply threatened by this challenge, just like I was at first...
-Tex
So saying "Put Amsoil in it and forget it!" is not an advertisement? Sounds like one to me.
My solution is to change oil based on the things I said above, your vehicle, your driving habits, your location, and your overall needs and comfort level.
I change oil in 8+ vehicles, all based on how they are individually used.
Some are an annual oil change because that is what they need for how they are driven, others are based on mileage, again, based on how they are driven.
The oil they use is whatever I have been able to get for cheap (currently $1.15/qt synthetic, various brands).
It is also what I can go get 24/7 at a local Walmart if needed. No need to call anyone, order online, or spend 2x as much as I need to.
I also like how you assume people are threatened by your "challenge(?)". Are you talking about your "Put Amsoil in it and forget it!" advertisement?
I see nobody threatened, just many voicing the same as I have, everyone has different needs and expectations.
Some are more comfortable changing oil before it is totally worn out.
Some have a warranty that they worry about, so follow that (both for mileage and running a certified and licensed oil).
There are many here that are running extended intervals (both with Amsoil and other oils (M1 EP and AP, Castrol Edge primarily, but other synthetics as well)), but you don't see a lot of stupid posts by them, they just post up their UOA's and keep doing what they are doing.
I haven't changed my oil for over a year and a half. Simply no need. Would be glad to publish my next Independent Lab Result at the next oil change (in a few months).
Oil: Amsoil Signature Series 0W20
Filter: Amsoil 15,000 mile synthetic media
For you guys still chasing your tails changing oil. If you enjoy the exercise, be my guest! I personally like saving all that spilled oil from the environment...
Put Amsoil in it and forget it!
-Tex
Only ignorant people make a blanket statement like this.
You give no information as to what vehicle, engine, mileage on vehicle, mileage on current interval, no driving conditions (location, short trip, long trip, hills, weather, etc).
You assume everyone else drives exactly like you.
For you, it may work, for others, it does not.
And I am with the others, in the past 20 oil changes I have done, I have "spilled" less than 1 oz of oil (that was absorbed by the cardboard I put under the vehicle, and am still using), and maybe another ounce or two that I have used to wipe things down with. All the rest of my oil is recycled at Auto Zone/Advance Auto.
Originally Posted by cwhard
Gee, didn't mean to ruffle so many feathers. And this wasn't meant to be an advertisement, so my apologizes.
Instead of simply shouting me down, why not offer your own solution? I would be curious as to how many folks are running their oil 1 year ( or 15,000-20K miles) without a worry. PLEASE, share your experiences and you options for a different oil type (if you have one). I am all ears and looking to learn.
But, I'm afraid that most of you are simply threatened by this challenge, just like I was at first...
-Tex
So saying "Put Amsoil in it and forget it!" is not an advertisement? Sounds like one to me.
My solution is to change oil based on the things I said above, your vehicle, your driving habits, your location, and your overall needs and comfort level.
I change oil in 8+ vehicles, all based on how they are individually used.
Some are an annual oil change because that is what they need for how they are driven, others are based on mileage, again, based on how they are driven.
The oil they use is whatever I have been able to get for cheap (currently $1.15/qt synthetic, various brands).
It is also what I can go get 24/7 at a local Walmart if needed. No need to call anyone, order online, or spend 2x as much as I need to.
I also like how you assume people are threatened by your "challenge(?)". Are you talking about your "Put Amsoil in it and forget it!" advertisement?
I see nobody threatened, just many voicing the same as I have, everyone has different needs and expectations.
Some are more comfortable changing oil before it is totally worn out.
Some have a warranty that they worry about, so follow that (both for mileage and running a certified and licensed oil).
There are many here that are running extended intervals (both with Amsoil and other oils (M1 EP and AP, Castrol Edge primarily, but other synthetics as well)), but you don't see a lot of stupid posts by them, they just post up their UOA's and keep doing what they are doing.
Tex, I do admit I may occasionally "spill" some oil in my woods
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Originally Posted by pitzel
With modern DI engines, even longer intervals are quite realistic given how clean such engines burn.
Really? How does that work?
With modern DI engines, even longer intervals are quite realistic given how clean such engines burn.
Really? How does that work?
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OP said to a buddy he can start a 6 page debate about changing oil in less than a day
OP: WIN
BUDDY: LOOSE
OP: WIN
BUDDY: LOOSE
I like to go by this. Know your number
Originally Posted by pitzel
With modern DI engines, even longer intervals are quite realistic given how clean such engines burn.
DI in many instances should have more frequent oil changes, a step backwards some might say when it comes to extended OCIs. A DI engine and an engine with a carburetor would be the last types of engines I'd want to push an OCI to the limit.
With modern DI engines, even longer intervals are quite realistic given how clean such engines burn.
DI in many instances should have more frequent oil changes, a step backwards some might say when it comes to extended OCIs. A DI engine and an engine with a carburetor would be the last types of engines I'd want to push an OCI to the limit.
DI i produces soot that gets into the oil. Oil changes should be shorter for this and fuel dilution..
Oil analysis is not a good indicator of wear protection, just oil serviceability.
The soot in GDI and GDIT May soon result in particulate filtration for gasoline engines due to the particulate pollutants.
Oil analysis is not a good indicator of wear protection, just oil serviceability.
The soot in GDI and GDIT May soon result in particulate filtration for gasoline engines due to the particulate pollutants.
I just moved from an expensive oil every 5k to a cheaper oil every 3k. I needed the extra oil to keep the dust down in my driveway. Now when I change my oil it is still a nice tannish clearish brown vs that old black as tar stuff and my driveway looks much better.
My neighbors want me to start doing their driveway.
My neighbors want me to start doing their driveway.
Originally Posted by FastLane
Nuke the whales. I use M1 and change every 3000 miles.
Can't teach an old dog new tricks. What a stupid waste unless you're driving one of the newer fuel diluting Honda turbos. Wow...
Nuke the whales. I use M1 and change every 3000 miles.
Can't teach an old dog new tricks. What a stupid waste unless you're driving one of the newer fuel diluting Honda turbos. Wow...
Originally Posted by PimTac
Originally Posted by cwhard
Joined over ten years ago and laid dormant until yesterday.
Hmm
******************************
So you are so superior because you have nothing better to do? I just retired and now have the time. Why not Welcome me instead (of being a jerk)?
-Tex
Reminds me of someone else who was here recently. The response is almost the same as well. Was it from Texas too?
People don't like to be told what to do. Your first mistake.
People getting their backs up. Perhaps it was merely a suggestion.
Originally Posted by cwhard
Joined over ten years ago and laid dormant until yesterday.
Hmm
******************************
So you are so superior because you have nothing better to do? I just retired and now have the time. Why not Welcome me instead (of being a jerk)?
-Tex
Reminds me of someone else who was here recently. The response is almost the same as well. Was it from Texas too?
People don't like to be told what to do. Your first mistake.
People getting their backs up. Perhaps it was merely a suggestion.
Many of the current auto manufacturers make recommendations about oil change intervals and recommended weight and type of oil to use
I also suspect that they tested those engines for many miles before putting them into production with their recommendations
They usually publish that material in an owner manual.
Might I suggest people read them and follow suggestions.
If you want to change from their suggestions, you might need some data to help you adjust your intervals and oil selection criteria.
This did not really help this discussion, but I try to read and follow directions. Especially when someone else has tested it and then makes warranty based on that testing
I also suspect that they tested those engines for many miles before putting them into production with their recommendations
They usually publish that material in an owner manual.
Might I suggest people read them and follow suggestions.
If you want to change from their suggestions, you might need some data to help you adjust your intervals and oil selection criteria.
This did not really help this discussion, but I try to read and follow directions. Especially when someone else has tested it and then makes warranty based on that testing
Originally Posted by cwhard
I would be curious as to how many folks are running their oil 1 year ( or 15,000-20K miles) without a worry. PLEASE, share your experiences and you options for a different oil type (if you have one). I am all ears and looking to learn.
I change the oil in my fleet every year, or two. Not many miles between OCI's. Always was vanilla M1 but giving SuperTech a work out now. Been doing this for 40 years.
I would be curious as to how many folks are running their oil 1 year ( or 15,000-20K miles) without a worry. PLEASE, share your experiences and you options for a different oil type (if you have one). I am all ears and looking to learn.
I change the oil in my fleet every year, or two. Not many miles between OCI's. Always was vanilla M1 but giving SuperTech a work out now. Been doing this for 40 years.
Originally Posted by bdcardinal
Originally Posted by CARJ
Stop telling me how to maintain my vehicles...
Exactly. I will keep doing my 5K OCIs as it is much cheaper than an engine.
Is it though?
Two extra oil changes per year, say $35 in materials x 2 is $70. If it takes you an hour each time, pay yourself $50 an hour on a weekend and you're looking at $170 per year. Do this for fifteen years and you're at $2550. If your engine lasts less time is debatable but let's say it lasts thirteen years instead of fifteen, does it really matter at that point? Car is going to be scrapped or traded anyway or you can have another used engine installed for a couple grand and be no worse off.
Originally Posted by CARJ
Stop telling me how to maintain my vehicles...
Exactly. I will keep doing my 5K OCIs as it is much cheaper than an engine.
Is it though?
Two extra oil changes per year, say $35 in materials x 2 is $70. If it takes you an hour each time, pay yourself $50 an hour on a weekend and you're looking at $170 per year. Do this for fifteen years and you're at $2550. If your engine lasts less time is debatable but let's say it lasts thirteen years instead of fifteen, does it really matter at that point? Car is going to be scrapped or traded anyway or you can have another used engine installed for a couple grand and be no worse off.
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