Cleaning a new 4.0 V6

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Originally Posted by atikovi
you can replace the Gunk with something milder like 409 and rinse with a garden hose at home.


I've never thought about 409 before. How well does it work?
 
Originally Posted by atikovi
Originally Posted by maxdustington
Clean engine bay = rusty engine bay.


Dirty engine bay = implies neglected engine, at least to potential buyers when you are selling. At least that's what I would think when I'm buying.


Or they're trying to hide an oil leak?
 
Target bag (Walmart bags often have holes in the bottom) over the alternator, and grab the hose. New engines are easy, as it's just dust, which will blow away with the pressure from the hose. A cone-shaped pattern from the sprayer would be sufficient on this engine, no need for a jet.

I wouldn't worry about the coil packs on a V engine, but the coil packs that sit in a valve cover valley on an I engine can be vulnerable.
 
Almost everytime I "rinse" an engine it runs bad - sometimes permanently.

So I just wipe off with a damp rag (no soap) the dust I dont lke to look at.

NO SILICON anywhere.
 
Originally Posted by buster
This is pretty cool.



I like the airless sprayer idea for rinsing and cleaning the engine bay. You can even mix a soap solution and apply it with the airless sprayer and then use the airless sprayer again to rinse it. I would still mask off electrical components and coil packs before using it.
 
With all that black plastic I would just wipe that clean and apply a good protectant. The engine itself should be clean still.

Are there protective shields under the engine bay?
 
Originally Posted by demarpaint
Originally Posted by buster
This is pretty cool.



I like the airless sprayer idea for rinsing and cleaning the engine bay. You can even mix a soap solution and apply it with the airless sprayer and then use the airless sprayer again to rinse it. I would still mask off electrical components and coil packs before using it.


It's not a bad idea. I'm not sure it's worth $200, but it has a nice balance of water(low amount) + airflow. I like that it doesn't use much water, however if it's really forceful then water can still make it to places it shouldn't. Plus, I think the mist setting on a house is good enough.
 
Originally Posted by PimTac
With all that black plastic I would just wipe that clean and apply a good protectant. The engine itself should be clean still.

Are there protective shields under the engine bay?


I may just do that. You're right the engine itself is clean it's just the plastic that's not. It has a skid plate and splash guard underneath.
 
Originally Posted by buster
I used to use the shower setting of the hose, but I think I'll try the mist setting.


That's how I've been doing it for 30 years. I've even washed my FILs 2017 Frontier's engine bay soon after he got it. I know a very clean engine bay only matters to me, but it bugs me when they're dirty.

Does your truck's option package have additional underbelly cladding / skid plates? My FILs has a metal engine underbelly pan with an access door for the engine oil filter IIRC.
 
Originally Posted by JTK
Originally Posted by buster
I used to use the shower setting of the hose, but I think I'll try the mist setting.


That's how I've been doing it for 30 years. I've even washed my FILs 2017 Frontier's engine bay soon after he got it. I know a very clean engine bay only matters to me, but it bugs me when they're dirty.

Does your truck's option package have additional underbelly cladding / skid plates? My FILs has a metal engine underbelly pan with an access door for the engine oil filter IIRC.


I feel the same way. I love a clean engine.

Yeah it has skid plates.
 
High pressure and cleaning soap + corroded connections

Just leave it alone, if you must rinse with pain water from a hose to remove salt.

A dirty engine is a happy engine.

same for motorcycle, only wash them in rain storms and creek crossings.

Rod
 
Originally Posted by 02SE
Originally Posted by rooflessVW
Originally Posted by 02SE
I'm referring to cars from the 80's to current models.

I have friends who are still in the consumer car repair business, who see the same thing periodically.

I mean, I can appreciate that a careless person trying to do good forcing water into place that it doesn't belong, but...

A once over with a wash mitt and then a rinse with a gentle stream isn't going to hurt a thing in the short or long term.

I hit a big puddle in my Atlas and I found dirty water stains on the hood lining. Engines get wet in daily use.


And not all of those wonderfully sealed connectors are always sealed as well as we would hope. Yes, engines can get wet driving down the road. Hopefully, all the connectors will be water resistant enough to keep the water out. That doesn't always happen either.

The OP asked for opinions. I gave mine based on my years as a master tech, who saw plenty of naive-owner-inflicted issues.


https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...-mb-c250-engine-bay-cleaning#Post5159209

Garden hose, a long drive and 2 hr of idling - and I still had water intrusion on 3 coils and every spark plug was corroded.
 
Going forward I'll likely do it by hand. I like the idea of using the pain sprayer. Any thoughts on that Critic? With beach use, sand will be something I have to deal with.
 
Everytime I wash my vehicles, I use the air compressor to blow dust/dirt out of the hard to reach places. After that, I just wipe everything else down with a damp microfiber towel. This seems to work well for me. I consider myself fairly OCD about cleaning my vehicles, the door jams, trunk, under the hood, it all gets cleaned and wiped down when I wash the car.
 
Absolutely nothing wrong with that. Keeping those areas clean also gives you the chance to inspect and catch anything that is amiss before it becomes a real problem.

Hey, when I do my oil changes I take a damp rag and wipe down the undershield below the engine and transmission. I then give it a quick wipe down with a trim protectant. It helps keep it cleaner and I can double check the fasteners during the process
 
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