Eurol/SAPS content - high KMs

[bluetek]

Hi,
for a Volvo D4162T 1.6L engine Eurols website recommended
-Eurol Fluence FE 5W-30
-Eurol Ultrance VA 0W-30
-Eurol Fortence 5W-30

but i found and am using
-Eurol Fluence DXS 5W-30
which has 0.1% less SAPS than the fluence FE and practically the same stats, but its a bit thicker (viscosity index 166 vs 170)

As the engine has 170k KM on it i am changing it every 2k now, and looking for a cheapish oil with low ash to save the DPF a bit

What do you oil wizards think about what im doing? basically FE is for renault, PSA etc and DXS is for GM but they are both for Fiat..
Does it matter at all since im dumping it every 2k?

 

[rubberchicken]

Changing oil every 2k KM is very frequent, in my opinion much too frequently. I would advise that rather than using the cheapest oil, use a better oil and only change every 5k-8k miles.

 

[Popsy]

Is there a special reason you are changing the oil so often ?

Can you get Valvoline MST 5W40 ?

 

[bluetek]

rubberchicken & popsy - the reason im changing at 2K currently is:

-it had 160,000km on the clock when i bought it, and had the bare minimum servicing done, whatever the previous owner could get away with,10-15,000km+ service IF LUCKY
-its a modern turbo diesel, i don't wanna risk the costly turbo,
-oil change is cheap if your doing it yourself and have all the tools, filter and oil are about 40$ total after tax etc
-the oil is still looking rough after 2K even though i did a double oil dump when i first got the car

i could have chosen 3k, 4k instead, but the mileage im putting on the trip meter (my oil change indicator) are ALL fast motorway miles, pushing the speed limit of 120km/h by 30km consistently, tearing up the motorway so the engine and the oil in it is running hotter than usual

Yes i can find that Valvoline, its even almost the same price as Eurol sometimes, but it seems im paying for a brand name.. and their additive package replaces moly with sodium, that made me just think what cheap [censored], its obviously a cheap additive replacement and it does nothing for wear protection, so i stated looking at the dutch company Eurol as it seems respectful and a lot of volvos are sold in holland

 

[bluetek]

there's about 1.5l left after each change so every 3rd change is "free"

I could dump the oil and keep the filter every second time also.

Ive had old toyotas, nissans and opels that had tank engines, just run the f***er on veg oil if desperate hah
but this is a modern fuel efficient diesel with high mileage, and i drive it hard..

 

[mikecz]

That engine was made by Ford/PSA it seems.

Is it burning oil?
Is the turbo water cooled?

Quote
and a lot of volvos are sold in holland

Not sure I'd go by that, but that's just me.

What oil, and interval, does Volvo specify?
What temperatures do you use the car in?

170000 km isn't that much for a diesel, is it? Is this an unreliable engine model or something?

 

[mikecz]

$40 every 2,000 km is $2,000 every 100,000 km.
$40 every 10,000 km is $400 every 100,000 km.
$40 every 5,000 km is $800 every 100,000 km.

Changing it every 10,000 km would save you $1,600 every 100,000 km.
Changing it every 5,000 km would save you $1,200 every 100,000 km.

How much is a good used engine and installation?
How much is a new DPF?
How much is driving hard worth to you?

 

[Popsy]

If it's a car new to you, makes sense to have short intervals. You could go longer after a few OC.

These engines are known here (in Peugeot and Citroën) for fuel dilution. I'd try to use a relatively thick oil, like the Valvoline I cited. I'm not sure this Valvoline still has the sodium add pack, for a C3 oil not sure that would make sense?

If you want moly, Total Ineo first 0W30 is good and cheap. Otherwise Total Rubia TIR 9900FE 5W30 was my pick

http://www4.total.fr/asia-oceania/a...AL_RUBIATIR9900FE5W-30_1YW_201810_EN.pdf


Edit : don't forget fuel filter every 30000Km. Preference for the Purflux OEM with zig zag pleats for both fuel and oil (Only the oil filter ks zig zag). An oil change of the gearbox is quick and generally gives some improvement on its feel, if it's not very smooth (mine wasn't).


In Italy you can probably get some Selenia C3 oil for ?

 

[Rollins]

Them engines are known for leaking injectors seals and very miserable consequences. One needs to create a habit to open the hood each week and carefully observe the space around the injectors for signs of leakage! If not caught on time the repairs are costly !

https://nissens.com/Files/Files/Aut..._NissensTurbo%20Technical%20Bulletin.pdf

• Damaged fuel injectors seals in the cylinder head > Engine oil contaminated by exhaust gases >
sludge formation (models produced before 2010)

This was the main reason for the grim demise of many engines(due to dumb head and injector mounting design. PSA shouldn't have teamed with Ford at all.) . Well, turbo (re)manufacturers made some profit (sometimes the owner would kill 2-3 turbos and extra vacuum pump due to buildup of crap in the engine internals...clogged screens etc.)
They revised the injector seals design at some point, dunno if it helped.

I'd look for ACEA C3 5w-40 to offset the effect of fuel dilution in case of frequent regens. But given the low OCI you've chosen now both TBN and visc. choice are of lesser importance. If you decide to go 10k km or more, C3 5w-40 or E6 5w-30 (like the Rubia TIR above)...oil consumption considered as well.
List of E6 DPF-recommended HDEO's.
https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/228.51_en.html