Valve adjustment?

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Just hit 210K miles and I am pretty positive that the valve adjustment has never been done on this car. Starting to think I might need it because my car sounds like a sewing machine at idle, has a pretty heavy ticking and some passengers have told me they think it's knocking but I know it can't actually be because I don't drive it too hard and my oil level is always right where it belongs.

Is it worth getting looked at and how much should I expect to pay for this service?
 
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The job pays a little over 1 hr so depending on the labor rate in your area it should be about $150 inc the parts (gaskets). This is a very easy one to do but if you have never done one getting the clearance correct can be a bit frustrating if you have no experience with how its supposed to feel.
If you have someone that can help you and show you how its done properly that would be ideal.
 
I'd definitely be doing it with supervision. Luckily my neighbor happens to be the master mechanic at a local dealer and has helped me before, so this shouldn't be too hard to arrange. Thanks
 
Do you have a service manual for your car? Read up on the procedure before starting. Good service manuals will tell you if you need special tools.
 
On the CRV? It will be fairly easy and straightforward. The main concern is going to be valves that are too tight. Too loose and they'll make noise but not really hurt anything, too tight and you run the risk of burning one, which is bad.

They make a tool for doing Honda valves, it can come in handy if you don't have a spare set of hands to do the adjustment and tighten the lock nut. Not terribly expensive either, think I Ebay'd mine for something like $10
 
Is it a 16 valve ? A wide lash is noisy but is way better than no lash. No lash is caused by valve seat recession, the erosion of the valve/seat contact patch.Not caught in time, the exhaust valves will burn. I replaced the #4 exhaust valves on DIL's CRV. I found the bad valves with a compression tester. A nice little engine even though its in side wise and runs backwards.
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PS Do some on line research for the procedure.
 
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Originally Posted by ctechbob
Too loose and they'll make noise but not really hurt anything,


Don't know about that. All the loose parts are hammering themselves against each other. Eventually something breaks. That's like saying a rod knock makes noise but not really hurt anything.
 
I have seen several CRVs with that "knock" noise and just about every time the exhaust cam was wiped out on one or more lobes.
 
My 4-cylinder engine was always tappy and noisy. About 6 months ago, I got the cam belt and water pump done plus they did the valve clearances at the same time. Wow ! it really made the engine run much quieter.
 
I had the dealer do a valve adjustment on my Accord several years back. I didn't notice any difference afterward.
 
I just had a valve adjustment done on my 2008 Element with the 2.4 L at 87,000 miles (done by the dealership). They claim they had to make several adjustments but "they'd seen worse" (not sure whether that was good or bad). I went ahead with it because of all the recommendations to do it before 110K miles as Honda recommends. I also didn't notice anything different after the adjustment.
 
I use a go-no go gauge. Makes it easier to check and recheck.
For me, the trick is to loosen the lock nut and turn the adjuster just a taste; then sung and recheck the clearance.
Goes pretty fast.

Good luck.
 
Lots of videos on YouTube on how to do this to the K24 engine.

I personally highly recommend getting a set of the 'angled' feeler gauges (ie: Lisle 68050). And of course, get the jam nut tool (Powerbuilt Alltrade 648827 10mm 7-1/2-Inch Jam Nut Valve Adjustment Tool).

My 110k mile K24A4 2005 Accord didn't need any adjustment, but its certainly plausible that a CR-V might after considerably more miles...
 
We have an '05 CRV and at 120k miles I had a few that were a bit too tight and I've since heard that sinking exhaust valves are not rare on these, and those valves held off the seats would be bad news.
 
Many many Hondas use solid/ manual adjusted valvetrains - more are solid than hydraulic.

Ignoring valve adjustments is a very common practice for honda owners insisting the car "needs no maintenance because its a Honda."

If the valve rides on the base circle and is held off the seat it will burn

UD
 
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