BCG Staking

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BlueOvalFitter

BlueOvalFitter

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Feb 28, 2003
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Cajun Country, La.
Now that I have sold all of my home built AR's, I want to focus on my Ruger AR-556 only. I bought this rifle about 2.5 years ago from GRAB A GUN for $499. I actually bought 2, one for my son (he paid for his). I have about 500 rds. thru it, 95% steel case ammo. I installed a BCM Upgraded Extraction Kit to get those SCA casings to eject correctly.
My Q? is, would you stake the gas key better than it is, or leave it alone? I installed a Premium PSA BCG after about firing 25 rounds. I want to install this one again and sell my PSA BCG to my cousin for a build he's working on. If I have Ruger do it, they want the whole rifle sent back. Or, I can take just the bolt carrier to a local gunsmith to have it done.

RUGER BCG.jpeg
 
I don't understand why you'd take a BCG to a gunsmith to have it installed in the rifle it came out of.

As far as the staking goes, it isn't super deep but it looks like the metal from the gas key is touching the bolt heads. Unless the gas key screws come loose I'd leave it as is.

BSW
 
Originally Posted by bsmithwins
I don't understand why you'd take a BCG to a gunsmith to have it installed in the rifle it came out of.

As far as the staking goes, it isn't super deep but it looks like the metal from the gas key is touching the bolt heads. Unless the gas key screws come loose I'd leave it as is.

BSW

Re-read my OP.
IF I wanted Ruger to do it THEY want the rifle sent WITH the BCG. IF I take it to a local gun smith I ONLY have to bring the bolt carrier, NOT the whole rifle.
Or, I can take just the bolt carrier to a local gunsmith to have it done.
 
Originally Posted by WhyMe
is ruger going to do it for free? if they are and picking up shipping i would send it back to them.

Yes, they are.
 
Originally Posted by BlueOvalFitter
Originally Posted by WhyMe
is ruger going to do it for free? if they are and picking up shipping i would send it back to them.

Yes, they are.



Wrap it and send it . they will also check out the rifle while its there. i would include a note about the issue with steel case. they might be able to fix it .
 
1) I would get rid of the O ring and install the colt copper colored spring with black buffer, or a SAW "green" spring, and black buffer.
2) staking is often less important than correct torque and hardware. Overtorqued gas key screws often snap. Incorrect staking methods can also lead to this. That said, correct staking is required for a reason in the TM. The staking in the picture appears to be technically sufficient, as best I can tell, but it's not a shining example to be sure.
 
Originally Posted by WhyMe
Originally Posted by BlueOvalFitter
Originally Posted by WhyMe
is ruger going to do it for free? if they are and picking up shipping i would send it back to them.

Yes, they are.



Wrap it and send it . they will also check out the rifle while its there. i would include a note about the issue with steel case. they might be able to fix it .

I doubt there is anything wrong with the gun that can't be fixed by selling it to someone that just shoots it and doesn't screw around with everything constantly.
 
I was just talking to one of my friends who is a combat veteran and now teaches at one of the premier tactical schools about the AR's that come through his school. He said that the Ruger's he has seen are junk. The ones he has seen that has the least problems are Colt & BCM.
 
There's no reason a smith competent in the AR shouldn't be able to stake a gas key.
 
Frankly, I'd put the bolt back in it and shoot it... if it broke, I'd fix it, or send it to Ruger and let them fix it... Odds are I (or you in this case) will never have to fix it or send it to Ruger for them to fix it.

I also (were I to do such a thing, which I wouldn't) would refrain from posting on the internet that I bought a gun for someone who gave me the money to do so. (Review instructions for Question 11a).
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by DuckRyder
Frankly, I'd put the bolt back in it and shoot it... if it broke, I'd fix it, or send it to Ruger and let them fix it... Odds are I (or you in this case) will never have to fix it or send it to Ruger for them to fix it.

I also (were I to do such a thing, which I wouldn't) would refrain from posting on the internet that I bought a gun for someone who gave me the money to do so. (Review instructions for Question 11a).

Since my cousin is no longer an FFL, I use an FFL in town. They charge $20 per firearm, AND my son DID go thru a background check in order to receive his AR. EVERYTHING was in his name, I just put up the money and he paid me back.
I'm sorry I wasn't MORE specific for your need to know.
smirk.gif
 
Originally Posted by Ws6
1) I would get rid of the O ring and install the colt copper colored spring with black buffer, or a SAW "green" spring, and black buffer.
2) staking is often less important than correct torque and hardware. Overtorqued gas key screws often snap. Incorrect staking methods can also lead to this. That said, correct staking is required for a reason in the TM. The staking in the picture appears to be technically sufficient, as best I can tell, but it's not a shining example to be sure.


gas key.jpeg
 
Originally Posted by BlueOvalFitter
Originally Posted by DuckRyder
Frankly, I'd put the bolt back in it and shoot it... if it broke, I'd fix it, or send it to Ruger and let them fix it... Odds are I (or you in this case) will never have to fix it or send it to Ruger for them to fix it.

I also (were I to do such a thing, which I wouldn't) would refrain from posting on the internet that I bought a gun for someone who gave me the money to do so. (Review instructions for Question 11a).

Since my cousin is no longer an FFL, I use an FFL in town. They charge $20 per firearm, AND my son DID go thru a background check in order to receive his AR. EVERYTHING was in his name, I just put up the money and he paid me back.
I'm sorry I wasn't MORE specific for your need to know.
smirk.gif



Good, I don't need to know (in fact I don't even want to know) , I'm just pointing out that it didn't sound good and you never know who might be cruising an open forum...

Advice to just shoot it remains...
 
Originally Posted by BlueOvalFitter
Originally Posted by Ws6
1) I would get rid of the O ring and install the colt copper colored spring with black buffer, or a SAW "green" spring, and black buffer.
2) staking is often less important than correct torque and hardware. Overtorqued gas key screws often snap. Incorrect staking methods can also lead to this. That said, correct staking is required for a reason in the TM. The staking in the picture appears to be technically sufficient, as best I can tell, but it's not a shining example to be sure.


Technically it looks like metal is displaced over the head of the screws, if ever so slight. I personally am not happy with that and find it lacking. If the staking is so "meh", how precise was the torque on the bolts it has been applied to? That, to me, is more important still, and there is no way to verify it. If you offered me that carrier for sale, I would simply not purchase it, regardless of the price quoted.

My .02 adjusted for inflation.
[Linked Image]


This is correct staking. It definitely moves metal over the bolt heads, without protruding too far above them (there is a TDP spec for this, but off the top of my head I do not recall the exact maximum protrusion above) , and it looks to have been performed via compression and not impact, which is correct, as impact can shear the gas-key bolts, or fracture them so they shear later.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by Ws6
Originally Posted by BlueOvalFitter
Originally Posted by Ws6
1) I would get rid of the O ring and install the colt copper colored spring with black buffer, or a SAW "green" spring, and black buffer.
2) staking is often less important than correct torque and hardware. Overtorqued gas key screws often snap. Incorrect staking methods can also lead to this. That said, correct staking is required for a reason in the TM. The staking in the picture appears to be technically sufficient, as best I can tell, but it's not a shining example to be sure.


Technically it looks like metal is displaced over the head of the screws, if ever so slight. I personally am not happy with that and find it lacking. If the staking is so "meh", how precise was the torque on the bolts it has been applied to? That, to me, is more important still, and there is no way to verify it. If you offered me that carrier for sale, I would simply not purchase it, regardless of the price quoted.

My .02 adjusted for inflation.
[Linked Image]


This is correct staking. It definitely moves metal over the bolt heads, without protruding too far above them (there is a TDP spec for this, but off the top of my head I do not recall the exact maximum protrusion above) , and it looks to have been performed via compression and not impact, which is correct, as impact can shear the gas-key bolts, or fracture them so they shear later.

This is my Premium PSA BCG my cousin wants to buy for $50. He's currently working on an 80% build. I think this is proper staking.


PSA BCG.jpeg
 
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