My 1998 ford ranger has a cracked frame. The various places i read about this repair online seem to be in two camps. One is to weld on a patch panel and the other is to not weld as it weakens the frame but to bolt on a patch panel instead.
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2019/08/full-55200-34928-img_20190731_191242226.jpg "[Linked Image]")
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2019/08/full-55200-34929-img_20190801_071234124.jpg "[Linked Image]")
How would you fix this cracked frame?
- Thread starter joegreen
- Start date
- Status
I have zero experience with fixing frames, but would adding a patch panel require drilling new holes?
If so, you'd have to think about that weakening the frame, also...
If so, you'd have to think about that weakening the frame, also...
joegreen, as the owner of a 2002 Ford Ranger myself, I have to ask, how did it crack ?
It looks like it was 'oil' undercoated (and that's a good thing).
Years ago, my ('77 Dodge D-100) had the left/rear corner hanging low (enough that it could not be driven).
The frame rusted thru where the leaf-spring bracket attached to the frame.
My Father and I jacked the frame up and welded some 1/4" thick patches to it.
We used angle-iron on top and bottom with a plate in the middle.
I never had a problem.
It looks like it was 'oil' undercoated (and that's a good thing).
Years ago, my ('77 Dodge D-100) had the left/rear corner hanging low (enough that it could not be driven).
The frame rusted thru where the leaf-spring bracket attached to the frame.
My Father and I jacked the frame up and welded some 1/4" thick patches to it.
We used angle-iron on top and bottom with a plate in the middle.
I never had a problem.
I guess I'm in the third camp and would consider getting rid of the entire truck. It depends on if you do the repair yourself or have somebody else do it, but by the time you put quite a bit of money into the repair, and knowing that the value of the repaired vehicle would be less than a similar vehicle that does not have a cracked frame (just try to sell your vehicle and inform the potential buyer about your repair would verify this), I'd be in the market for a different truck.
BTW, I have a '98 Ranger and if I was debating this, I'd go for the replacement truck. Your truck is 20+ years old.
BTW, I have a '98 Ranger and if I was debating this, I'd go for the replacement truck. Your truck is 20+ years old.
I wonder what the rest of the frame looks like. Otherwise I'd be in the weld it camp. I don't think this is anything other than regular old steel, so it's not going to be made weaker, and it's a Ranger, not a 1 ton that is going to be loaded to the gills (in terms of liability if the weld goes bad).
I agree with the person that said to go over the rest of the truck with a fine tooth comb . Not only for cracks , but for rust and loose fasteners .
If all else looks OK , I would find a GOOD welder willing to do the work ( I am no longer able to do it myself ) . Ask him / her to V the crack and weld it up . Then start making a generous size patch on the flat side and top / bottom sides .
Try not to create any " pockets that would collect salt , dirt , mud & water . Corrosion proof as best as you can .
Do some research ;
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=+truck+frame+repair
Best of luck to you .
If all else looks OK , I would find a GOOD welder willing to do the work ( I am no longer able to do it myself ) . Ask him / her to V the crack and weld it up . Then start making a generous size patch on the flat side and top / bottom sides .
Try not to create any " pockets that would collect salt , dirt , mud & water . Corrosion proof as best as you can .
Do some research ;
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=+truck+frame+repair
Best of luck to you .
Personally I'd consider welding it. Make up a nice fish plate and of course you're gonna have to template those holes for that hanger . So yea it's gotta come off I would think. Ford was kind enough to set you up for this by making this section too light for all that gear mounting tight there.
How's the back look , cracked? Do you use it for ugly stuff like I do or chasing occasional 2x 4s and the like? For light duty you might be better served with just welding the crack but I'd seriously clean up around that right upper-area where that hanger mounts, looks like a crack maybe at 11 o'clock . I'd check the other Side too. If they're both cracked you might need that glove section piece after all. Lots a atf / acetone spray or penetrating oil for a couple weeks prior to trying to remove those bolts!
What I want to know is what mix of oil you're spraying on that thing. It looks like a 2015 not 2002. Whatever you're doing keep at it! We the free Comrades of the Peoples Republic Of Neuyorkistan need all the help we can get in that area. If you'd within driving distance of the Border and can't get anyone to touch it ( speeddial Lawyers🤨) I know this guy just across the border near Malone who has a body show isn't a crook and welds frames like you wouldn't believe.
How's the back look , cracked? Do you use it for ugly stuff like I do or chasing occasional 2x 4s and the like? For light duty you might be better served with just welding the crack but I'd seriously clean up around that right upper-area where that hanger mounts, looks like a crack maybe at 11 o'clock . I'd check the other Side too. If they're both cracked you might need that glove section piece after all. Lots a atf / acetone spray or penetrating oil for a couple weeks prior to trying to remove those bolts!
What I want to know is what mix of oil you're spraying on that thing. It looks like a 2015 not 2002. Whatever you're doing keep at it! We the free Comrades of the Peoples Republic Of Neuyorkistan need all the help we can get in that area. If you'd within driving distance of the Border and can't get anyone to touch it ( speeddial Lawyers🤨) I know this guy just across the border near Malone who has a body show isn't a crook and welds frames like you wouldn't believe.
A frame repair like this would be a piece of cake for the right person. Looks like rust is not a problem so that crack is entirely fixable with the right preparation and a properly-done weld, then fish-plated over.
In the first photo the crack looks as though it extends "backwards" (that is back to the left) from that long straight crack. So there may be a small triangular piece with a crack on both sides of it. Cleaning off the anti-corrosion finish in that area to carefully track the cracks would be an essential part of any welded repair. I'm not sure how that backwards crack extension would occur as a crack often starts at an edge or a hole and extends forward from there, but that's how it looks in the photo anyway.
In the second photo the exhaust pipe stops near the cracked area. This might not be clear cut "stress corrosion cracking" but the water vapour and acidic components of the exhaust aren't helping this cracking situation. So get the exhaust fixed too.
In the second photo the exhaust pipe stops near the cracked area. This might not be clear cut "stress corrosion cracking" but the water vapour and acidic components of the exhaust aren't helping this cracking situation. So get the exhaust fixed too.
Originally Posted by Kruse
I guess I'm in the third camp and would consider getting rid of the entire truck. It depends on if you do the repair yourself or have somebody else do it, but by the time you put quite a bit of money into the repair, and knowing that the value of the repaired vehicle would be less than a similar vehicle that does not have a cracked frame (just try to sell your vehicle and inform the potential buyer about your repair would verify this), I'd be in the market for a different truck.
BTW, I have a '98 Ranger and if I was debating this, I'd go for the replacement truck. Your truck is 20+ years old.
This doesn't make any sense at all. You'd spend quite a bit more for another truck which could possibly have other problems with more complex, obsolete, expensive to repair electronic systems that could brick your vehicle faster than the slightly cracked frame on the OP's Ranger.
Repairs are made on vehicles all the time. Why would a repaired vehicle be worth less than one which might have the same condition but which is never disclosed to the
buyer ? Disclosure of that repair would be an asset not a demerit.
Try selling it with an unrepaired cracked frame and see what you'd get for it.
Tremendous waste of what looks like a well cared for truck if that's the answer.
I guess I'm in the third camp and would consider getting rid of the entire truck. It depends on if you do the repair yourself or have somebody else do it, but by the time you put quite a bit of money into the repair, and knowing that the value of the repaired vehicle would be less than a similar vehicle that does not have a cracked frame (just try to sell your vehicle and inform the potential buyer about your repair would verify this), I'd be in the market for a different truck.
BTW, I have a '98 Ranger and if I was debating this, I'd go for the replacement truck. Your truck is 20+ years old.
This doesn't make any sense at all. You'd spend quite a bit more for another truck which could possibly have other problems with more complex, obsolete, expensive to repair electronic systems that could brick your vehicle faster than the slightly cracked frame on the OP's Ranger.
Repairs are made on vehicles all the time. Why would a repaired vehicle be worth less than one which might have the same condition but which is never disclosed to the
buyer ? Disclosure of that repair would be an asset not a demerit.
Try selling it with an unrepaired cracked frame and see what you'd get for it.
Tremendous waste of what looks like a well cared for truck if that's the answer.
Last edited:
Google "Fish plate frame repair" All your questions will be answered.
If you decide to fix it, take lots of photos at various points in the repair. You might want to sell it at some point, and for liability reasons you should disclose the frame repair.
If I were buying an older truck with a repaired frame I'd want to know exactly what was done. If it's done right I wouldn't see that repair being a barrier, though I would check the rest of the frame pretty carefully.
If I were buying an older truck with a repaired frame I'd want to know exactly what was done. If it's done right I wouldn't see that repair being a barrier, though I would check the rest of the frame pretty carefully.
Thanks for the input. I am definitely fixing the frame. We have had the truck since almost new. It was garaged for half its life and is in good shape. I looked it up and it seems to be a common issue with the ford ranger frame cracking in that location. Google ford ranger frame crack and you will see pictures of similar cracks. I did find a post where someones 3 year old ranger frame cracked so i dont think its rust related although rust definitely does not help.
If it's welded correctly with a big enough patch panel, it can be stronger than it was new, so no the make it weaker argument doesn't hold water. If done poorly then sure, it could be a problem again later. If the other side is the same design (with that stud near the bottom which seems to be the fracture origin) I would go ahead and weld a panel on there too.
However, examining the whole vehicle to assess the rest of it does have merit. I would still repair it because the cost of the repair is likely to be less than the depreciation of it becoming scrap metal value when the crack completely fails, but the point is that at this point I would consider whether to hold onto it or repair and sell it soon if there are many other rust areas that are going to be a problem soon.
For example if you're still on the original brake lines, replace them before you drive it much longer. DIY you can do that for $100 (closer to $150 including soft lines) or less. Having a shop do it, you're looking at $1000+ considering you'll probably want them to replace the soft lines (at each wheel) while they're at it. This is in addition to all the other misc. things you may encounter with a 22 year old vehicle, things that you can repair yourself inexpensively but if you have to have a shop do them, can easily exceed the value of the vehicle soon.
I am in favor of keeping an old Ranger on the road if the engine is in good shape, and tranny too if not a manual. It's a nice size for occasional hauling, before truck bloat and extreme cost became a thing, and parts are easy to find.
However, examining the whole vehicle to assess the rest of it does have merit. I would still repair it because the cost of the repair is likely to be less than the depreciation of it becoming scrap metal value when the crack completely fails, but the point is that at this point I would consider whether to hold onto it or repair and sell it soon if there are many other rust areas that are going to be a problem soon.
For example if you're still on the original brake lines, replace them before you drive it much longer. DIY you can do that for $100 (closer to $150 including soft lines) or less. Having a shop do it, you're looking at $1000+ considering you'll probably want them to replace the soft lines (at each wheel) while they're at it. This is in addition to all the other misc. things you may encounter with a 22 year old vehicle, things that you can repair yourself inexpensively but if you have to have a shop do them, can easily exceed the value of the vehicle soon.
I am in favor of keeping an old Ranger on the road if the engine is in good shape, and tranny too if not a manual. It's a nice size for occasional hauling, before truck bloat and extreme cost became a thing, and parts are easy to find.
Last edited:
I must say, the frame looks good because it's been oil coated...I'm used to seeing Rangers rusted to the gills. Had one myself, did several "frame repairs". Mostly just welding steel plates over damaged areas...did the trick.
Originally Posted by Dave9
If it's welded correctly with a big enough patch panel, it can be stronger than it was new, so no the make it weaker argument doesn't hold water. If done poorly then sure, it could be a problem again later. If the other side is the same design (with that stud near the bottom which seems to be the fracture origin) I would go ahead and weld a panel on there too.
However, examining the whole vehicle to assess the rest of it does have merit. I would still repair it because the cost of the repair is likely to be less than the depreciation of it becoming scrap metal value when the crack completely fails, but the point is that at this point I would consider whether to hold onto it or repair and sell it soon if there are many other rust areas that are going to be a problem soon.
For example if you're still on the original brake lines, replace them before you drive it much longer. DIY you can do that for $100 (closer to $150 including soft lines) or less. Having a shop do it, you're looking at $1000+ considering you'll probably want them to replace the soft lines (at each wheel) while they're at it. This is in addition to all the other misc. things you may encounter with a 22 year old vehicle, things that you can repair yourself inexpensively but if you have to have a shop do them, can easily exceed the value of the vehicle soon.
I am in favor of keeping an old Ranger on the road if the engine is in good shape, and tranny too if not a manual. It's a nice size for occasional hauling, before truck bloat and extreme cost became a thing, and parts are easy to find.
I would call myself an advanced diy-er. I took 2 years of automotive school but decided i didnt want to be a technician for the rest of my life and figured its much more fun as a hobby. Now im a mechanical engineering major. If i have the tools I feel confident I can tackle any automotive repair job. I have replaced all the brake lines with nicopp brake lines. I actually went over the whole truck a few years ago tackling all the issues and its currently really well sorted except for this issue. Would drive to California and back no worries.
If it's welded correctly with a big enough patch panel, it can be stronger than it was new, so no the make it weaker argument doesn't hold water. If done poorly then sure, it could be a problem again later. If the other side is the same design (with that stud near the bottom which seems to be the fracture origin) I would go ahead and weld a panel on there too.
However, examining the whole vehicle to assess the rest of it does have merit. I would still repair it because the cost of the repair is likely to be less than the depreciation of it becoming scrap metal value when the crack completely fails, but the point is that at this point I would consider whether to hold onto it or repair and sell it soon if there are many other rust areas that are going to be a problem soon.
For example if you're still on the original brake lines, replace them before you drive it much longer. DIY you can do that for $100 (closer to $150 including soft lines) or less. Having a shop do it, you're looking at $1000+ considering you'll probably want them to replace the soft lines (at each wheel) while they're at it. This is in addition to all the other misc. things you may encounter with a 22 year old vehicle, things that you can repair yourself inexpensively but if you have to have a shop do them, can easily exceed the value of the vehicle soon.
I am in favor of keeping an old Ranger on the road if the engine is in good shape, and tranny too if not a manual. It's a nice size for occasional hauling, before truck bloat and extreme cost became a thing, and parts are easy to find.
I would call myself an advanced diy-er. I took 2 years of automotive school but decided i didnt want to be a technician for the rest of my life and figured its much more fun as a hobby. Now im a mechanical engineering major. If i have the tools I feel confident I can tackle any automotive repair job. I have replaced all the brake lines with nicopp brake lines. I actually went over the whole truck a few years ago tackling all the issues and its currently really well sorted except for this issue. Would drive to California and back no worries.
Weld it right and fish plate it and you're done
- Status
