Rust st rocker panel seams.. how to treat? Good rust converter?

[sh40674]

Pardon if this is the wrong forum.. didnt know if this would fall under detail or maintanence...

My 11 f150 is pretty clean. Had some rock guard sprayed on the rockers, but noticed lately its rusting on the rocker seams/bolt holes. Took it to my body guy and he told me the obvious, only way to fix is to cut it out and new rockers. We decided to keep it at bay for as long as we can. I'm going to clean out the rockers the best I can via the access holes, and spray the inside with Eastwood internal frame coat, but I want a rust converter that won't damage the rock guard coating too much (going to wire brush the rust a bit, apply a rust converter and spray with rustoleum) then we are going to seal the seams. The goal is to prevent it from spreading too much and hopefully give me a year or 2 before I have to cut them out. I'm being realistic, I know it's a bandaid and not a cure, but right now I dont have the finances to do rocker replacements (the wheel well seams have a couple spots too)

Can anyone recommend a decent rust converter that's not too harsh on surrounding coatings and easy to apply?

 

[Bailes1992]

There's a company in the UK called Buzzweld who sell a creeping rust converter primer called Cavity Paint...

http://www.buzzweld.co.uk/cavity-paint-rust-stabiliser.html

This followed by the a good cavity wax should serve you well for many years.

 

[Donald]

You can use the Eastwood rust converter and then Eastwood Encapsulation (or POR-15). Basically you want the outer covering to be like hard like a turtle shell and not allow in any air.

Other rust converters provide their own outer covering.

Some rust converters need some rust to work properly, so read the directions before you wire brush.

 

[MasterSolenoid]

I never really cared for 'rust converters'
It always seemed the 'rust' was always still under it.
If the 'converters' job is to create an air barrier, why not just apply paint / but who paints over rust ?

I prefer Fluid Film and an 'atomizer hose.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qbjq2RWAY3M
The FF will creep all around any spot welds and thru the original rust DOWN TO the base metal.

My 2002 Ranger has pratically NO rust.

 

[crainholio]

This seems to be a thing with Fords in my experience. In addition to the rocker panels, check the welded sheetmetal below your radiator and door panels at the bottom. These tend to rust from the inside out where Ford brings sheetmetal panels together, like they're not painted or treated on the inside before spot welding. In those cases, painting the exterior is not effective.

I've had good luck spraying either aerosol garage door lubricant or newer WD40 Gel Spray 'n Stay inside the drain holes in all directions. Both seep down into the metal seams, and I reapply each Fall. Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Protector may be a better alternative to consider as it dries solid and seems to be holding up well on my 4Runner's crossmembers and frame rails.

 

[henni]

This from Amazon

amazon.com/gp/product/B0032Y3B0M

 

[Snagglefoot]

Originally Posted by Donald
You can use the Eastwood rust converter and then Eastwood Encapsulation (or POR-15). Basically you want the outer covering to be like hard like a turtle shell and not allow in any air.

Other rust converters provide their own outer covering.

Some rust converters need some rust to work properly, so read the directions before you wire brush.

I tried this on the inside of a rear bumper using the Eastman converter followed by the Eastman Encapsulator but it couldn't hack the under car conditions for long. (Ie more than one winter). YRMV. I think I would go with one of the oily anticorrosion products and hit it every year.

 

[KrisZ]

If it were me, I would grab a tub of all purpose grease, a brush and brush and start brushing on the grease. Grease will resist washing off.

The insides if the rockers also need to be treated and for that I would use an oil based rust proofing in a spray can, such as Fluid film, Rust Ccheck.

Inspect and treat annually from now on.

 

[Tdog02]

I used POR-15 on a jeep TJ that had started rust on the frame under the trans pan area. It worked great for brushing on but follow all instructions and don't let it get on anything else. (it won't come off) I have also used Eastwood frame coating and it has an attached spray nozzle on a flexible hose. It is easy to use but is green and you will need to spray it a different color if that bothers you. For what you need, it should be good enough for the life of the truck.

 

[buck91]

I've been using FF on my MT2011 F150 since 2013. I'll upload a current pic of my rockers. Not perfect but pretty good for living and driving in the heart of the salt belt. Some years I've been good and keeping the truck washed but the last couple I have not. Rinse thoroughly and reapply bulk FF in mid-summer with atomized FF inside the rocker cavities and doors. Its not a perfect solution but I have about the only 2011 F150 thats not showing rocker and fender rot in the area.

 

[Hootbro]

For a 8-9 year old vehicle, that is not bad. I would just fluid film it yearly and you will probably get another 10+ years out of it before it becomes a problem

 

[supton]

This is what I like the spray cans of FF for, put the straw in and then squirt into those places where it might not creep.

 

[sh40674]

I plan on using the internal frame coating INSIDE the rockers, my question is for the outside of the seams where the frame coating wont creep to... I was planning on using a converter or something on the outside between the seams, so basically attacking it from the outside as well, and then using seam sealer. If the rockers need replaced in a few years then so be it, but I know from previous experience with my dodge I want to take care of it now while it's not bad and extend as much life as I can

 

[sh40674]

Could I treat the inside of the rockers with the eastwood internal frame and brush fluid film into the seams from the outside? My only worry there is the seam sealer wont stick then

 

[doitmyself]

Originally Posted by sh40674
I plan on using the internal frame coating INSIDE the rockers, my question is for the outside of the seams where the frame coating wont creep to... I was planning on using a converter or something on the outside between the seams, so basically attacking it from the outside as well, and then using seam sealer. If the rockers need replaced in a few years then so be it, but I know from previous experience with my dodge I want to take care of it now while it's not bad and extend as much life as I can

That rust doesn't seem to be bad at all. It appears to be mostly on the exterior edges. The bad rust is when you see blisters caused from rust penetrating the outer surface from the inside.

You can see the sandwiched layers of metal where the rusty edge is. If you put any type of seam sealer there, it will trap any moisture from the inside and make the problem worse. Any type of encapsulator/surface treatments or other thick material will have the same effect of trapping moisture in between the sandwiched metal layers.

My opinion is that it would be best to fog/drench the internal rocker panels with a creeping type thin oil coating that will penetrate into every sandwiched metal cavity. Any thick type of coating will not do that. On the outside I suppose you could treat the exposed metal with a rust converter. You could then paint it, being careful not to plug the cavities and again create a bigger problem. It might be better to just use biannual exterior coatings of a rust preventative oil on the outside too. The goal is to keep every sheet metal surface protected and not create problems by coating/plugging up the crevices that will allow internal rust to continue on.

The Eastwood Internal Frame is a Phenolic Resin encapsulator. Will it creep into the micro crevices of sandwiched metal??

Products like Krown, Corrosion Free, and Rust Chek are several options that come to mind.

 

[sh40674]

The internal frame coating goes on thin.. my idea was it would creep where it can,and the rust converter would creep the other side. I havent looked but I'm assuming the rocker panel has drain holes as well