Ugh, been there!ðŸ˜
- Thread starter Mad_Hatter
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Just went through this on a Honda Element rear stabilizer bar bushings. One broke and took me 4 hours of playing time.
And every once in a while with some heat and a pair of vise grips the rusted stud you were sure was going to snap just turns right out. It only does this in order to give you false hope for the next time.
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2019/07/full-10688-34837-img_4204.jpg "[Linked Image]")
Remember anti-seize is your friend.
Kestas
Staff member
This is why I never work on my cars in the garage at my workplace. It's too easy to run into a surprise. I've heard stories of guys working until 2am after running into a nightmare.
It's also why I leave work to be done on my cars seasonally. I have a winter car and a summer car. I have all season to deal with nightmares on either car.
I remember my dad once bought a new car and I spent two days going over every fastener I could get my hands on and treating them with antiseize.
It's also why I leave work to be done on my cars seasonally. I have a winter car and a summer car. I have all season to deal with nightmares on either car.
I remember my dad once bought a new car and I spent two days going over every fastener I could get my hands on and treating them with antiseize.
Originally Posted by fozzdesy2001
Remember anti-seize is your friend.
A reverse drill bit set is also your friend..... most every snapped bolt has been on a used car. I've found running the engine and getting things heated up works sometimes..but then that makes getting some bolts or O2 sensors off "interesting"🔥...‚, especially if it's a tight spot....¨
Q: what's your guys go to oil for frozen bolts? 3 in 1 or WD40 have been mine over the years. Is there anything out there that is a rockstar when it comes to "creeping"???
Originally Posted by Kestas
I remember my dad once bought a new car and I spent two days going over every fastener I could get my hands on and treating them with antiseize.
He taught you well.ðŸ‘
Remember anti-seize is your friend.
A reverse drill bit set is also your friend..... most every snapped bolt has been on a used car. I've found running the engine and getting things heated up works sometimes..but then that makes getting some bolts or O2 sensors off "interesting"🔥...‚, especially if it's a tight spot....¨
Q: what's your guys go to oil for frozen bolts? 3 in 1 or WD40 have been mine over the years. Is there anything out there that is a rockstar when it comes to "creeping"???
Originally Posted by Kestas
I remember my dad once bought a new car and I spent two days going over every fastener I could get my hands on and treating them with antiseize.
He taught you well.ðŸ‘
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Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2019/07/full-85545-34836-1564334559023.jpg "[Linked Image]")
That one's easy-a center punch, grinder, an assortment of small drill bits, & a good tap will fix that right up! You want a nightmare, try drilling out stainless steel studs with regular steel threads, in a blind hole, without breaking off a drill bit (or a TAP!) in it...
That one's easy-a center punch, grinder, an assortment of small drill bits, & a good tap will fix that right up! You want a nightmare, try drilling out stainless steel studs with regular steel threads, in a blind hole, without breaking off a drill bit (or a TAP!) in it...
Kestas
Staff member
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
Originally Posted by Kestas
I remember my dad once bought a new car and I spent two days going over every fastener I could get my hands on and treating them with antiseize.
He taught you well.ðŸ‘
Actually, I'm to take credit for that. I was the family mechanic. I knew I'd have to work on the car when it got old. My dad always bought new and drove them until the wheels fell off.
Originally Posted by Kestas
I remember my dad once bought a new car and I spent two days going over every fastener I could get my hands on and treating them with antiseize.
He taught you well.ðŸ‘
Actually, I'm to take credit for that. I was the family mechanic. I knew I'd have to work on the car when it got old. My dad always bought new and drove them until the wheels fell off.
If this was your car in a workshop....would you understand the extra cost on the bill, or complain that they jacked up the price ?
Kestas
Staff member
I usually assume the mechanic charges one price. If it goes well -- fine, if it's a struggle, he doesn't pass the extra trouble on to the customer. Not because it's fair, but because this is how you handle it with the customer. They don't want to hear about your woes. The mechanic's price should reflect the average of these jobs.
That said, I've seen instances where mechanics will refuse certain work on old rusty cars because they know what a nightmare it'll be.
That said, I've seen instances where mechanics will refuse certain work on old rusty cars because they know what a nightmare it'll be.
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
Originally Posted by fozzdesy2001
Remember anti-seize is your friend.
A reverse drill bit set is also your friend..... most every snapped bolt has been on a used car. I've found running the engine and getting things heated up works sometimes..but then that makes getting some bolts or O2 sensors off "interesting"🔥...‚, especially if it's a tight spot....¨
Q: what's your guys go to oil for frozen bolts? 3 in 1 or WD40 have been mine over the years. Is there anything out there that is a rockstar when it comes to "creeping"???
Originally Posted by Kestas
I remember my dad once bought a new car and I spent two days going over every fastener I could get my hands on and treating them with antiseize.
He taught you well.ðŸ‘
Kroil - hands down.
Liquid wrench is a close second.
WD-40 does a lousy job of penetrating rusted/stuck fasteners, in my experience.
Originally Posted by fozzdesy2001
Remember anti-seize is your friend.
A reverse drill bit set is also your friend..... most every snapped bolt has been on a used car. I've found running the engine and getting things heated up works sometimes..but then that makes getting some bolts or O2 sensors off "interesting"🔥...‚, especially if it's a tight spot....¨
Q: what's your guys go to oil for frozen bolts? 3 in 1 or WD40 have been mine over the years. Is there anything out there that is a rockstar when it comes to "creeping"???
Originally Posted by Kestas
I remember my dad once bought a new car and I spent two days going over every fastener I could get my hands on and treating them with antiseize.
He taught you well.ðŸ‘
Kroil - hands down.
Liquid wrench is a close second.
WD-40 does a lousy job of penetrating rusted/stuck fasteners, in my experience.
Originally Posted by Astro14
Kroil - hands down.
Liquid wrench is a close second.
WD-40 does a lousy job of penetrating rusted/stuck fasteners, in my experience.
Tx... never heard of Kroil.
Kroil - hands down.
Liquid wrench is a close second.
WD-40 does a lousy job of penetrating rusted/stuck fasteners, in my experience.
Tx... never heard of Kroil.
Been there done that.
1975 working with a friend changing the thermostat on his 1968 Camaro with a 327 engine. Bolt broke off, he tried to drill a hole in the center of the remaining bolt and extract it. It did not work. We drilled a large hole that was bigger then the threads of the bolt, and bent an old set of points around a nut to stop the nut from turning, used body putty to hold the nut from falling off the poonts put the whole thing together and it worked. After a couple years the frame rusted out on that Camaro and he bought another one with a bad motor and we transferred the motor with the Mickey mouse fix to the second Camaro. He drove that for a couple of years and then sold it. He later told me that the person who bought it bought it for the motor.
1975 working with a friend changing the thermostat on his 1968 Camaro with a 327 engine. Bolt broke off, he tried to drill a hole in the center of the remaining bolt and extract it. It did not work. We drilled a large hole that was bigger then the threads of the bolt, and bent an old set of points around a nut to stop the nut from turning, used body putty to hold the nut from falling off the poonts put the whole thing together and it worked. After a couple years the frame rusted out on that Camaro and he bought another one with a bad motor and we transferred the motor with the Mickey mouse fix to the second Camaro. He drove that for a couple of years and then sold it. He later told me that the person who bought it bought it for the motor.
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
fozzdesy2001 said:
+1
Spray, walk away, come back later in the day.
Spray, walk away, come back later in the day.
Originally Posted by TheLawnRanger
+1
Spray, walk away, come back later in the day.
That's what I know I should do... and I have to keep myself from wanting to back out and give it "small" turn to see if it's working...of course, that's usually a bad idea right?🤔....*snap*..*dammit*...‚...‚...‚
I've found anything in/on the exhaust you almost have to heat up... which can make it "fun" to get off if it's in a tight place....‚
Originally Posted by bunnspecial
I swear by PB Blaster.
Yeah, a lot of people on YT swear by it. I've personally never tried it... just might have to add it to my arsenal.
+1
Spray, walk away, come back later in the day.
That's what I know I should do... and I have to keep myself from wanting to back out and give it "small" turn to see if it's working...of course, that's usually a bad idea right?🤔....*snap*..*dammit*...‚...‚...‚
I've found anything in/on the exhaust you almost have to heat up... which can make it "fun" to get off if it's in a tight place....‚
Originally Posted by bunnspecial
I swear by PB Blaster.
Yeah, a lot of people on YT swear by it. I've personally never tried it... just might have to add it to my arsenal.
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