Mobil 1 or Mobil conventional for my GDI?

[ernied]

I use mobil 1 in my 2015 sonata 2.4 gdi engine my friend says I pay too much
for that and change at 5000 miles.he says mobil conventional is good for that.what do you
experts say.

 

[Virtus_Probi]

Originally Posted by ernied
I use mobil 1 in my 2015 sonata 2.4 gdi engine my friend says I pay too much
for that and change at 5000 miles.he says mobil conventional is good for that.what do you
experts say.

If you get rebates on your M1, it's probably the same price or cheaper than Mobil Super in the end.

 

[Danno]

I would go with Canadian severe service schedule for Hyundai,
3,750 miles and use 5W-20 PYB and OE oil filter.

 

[A_Harman]

Don't listen to your friend. Read your owner's manual. It knows more than he does.

 

[Cujet]

M1, 5000 mile OCI's. That engine is sensitive to oil quality and has a number of known issues. All preventable with good maintenance.

 

[NormanBuntz]

Originally Posted by A_Harman
Don't listen to your friend. Read your owner's manual. It knows more than he does.

Yep. And Mobil Super or Mobil 5000 is getting hard to find except at AA.

 

[ChrisD46]

+1 Due to GDI and the 2.4L GDI in particular - use 5W30 weight in Mobil 1 , Quaker State Ultimate Durability , Pennzoil Platinum , Valvoline Advanced or Castrol Edge for less than 5,000 miles OCI ... It costs very little as an upgrade from conventional with a number of benefits .
Originally Posted by Cujet
M1, 5000 mile OCI's. That engine is sensitive to oil quality and has a number of known issues. All preventable with good maintenance.

 

[CharBaby]

I don't believe that Hyundai requires a full synthetic oil in the 2.4L GDi used in your Sonata. However, you must do what makes you sleep well at night and to follow your owner's manual and use the recommended oil for that engine.

For example, my buddy has a '12 Sonata 2.0L Turbo and uses synthetic oil however, his owner's manual doesn't necessarily specify that he needs to. Only to use a specific grade of oil for that turbo.

You didn't mention how far(in mo/mi) you travel on Mobil1 OCIs, only how long your friend thinks you should go(5K miles). I mean, if you're M1 OCI's are 3 mo/3k mi then I may agree with your friend that you're wasting your money and that there are other alternatives. Especially since most conventional oils can now go 5K(maybe even 6K) mile OCIs. 5K is the new 3K.

Are you overpaying for oil or M1 in particular? Only you can be the judge on that!
There are deals out there on oil(s) and I am a firm believer in taking advantage of those deals.

 

[BigD1]

Mobil Super 5000 everyday price at Rural King is $12.99. Had a sale on it back a couple months ago for $10.49 a jug. I bought at that price, and then got $7 a jug rebate from Mobil.

All the jugs on the shelves are labeled synthetic blend.

 

[avi1777]

Originally Posted by Cujet
M1, 5000 mile OCI's. That engine is sensitive to oil quality and has a number of known issues. All preventable with good maintenance.
more than 100 thousands engine failures due to metal shavings.

 

[buster]

Use a synthetic. Oil is cheap, your engine is not.

 

[racin4ds]

An engine family known for issues, use a quality synthetic i.e Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra, Amsoil, Castrol etc. Just about anything but M1...

 

[tiger862]

Use an approved synthetic oil and change according to the manual severe duty.

 

[Jimzz]

5000miles just use regular oil in that motor. But as said there are rebates for mobil Super synthetic and M1 that brings the price down. Supertech Syn is only $16 a jug as well if you want to save money and still do 5k changes with Syn oil.

I have a few customers with the 2.4 motor and do around 7-9k on synthetic oil. All of them are now over 100k with no motor issues.

 

[ernied]

thanks money is not a problem I just don't want to waste oil.

 

[csandste]

Originally Posted by BigD1
Mobil Super 5000 everyday price at Rural King is $12.99. Had a sale on it back a couple months ago for $10.49 a jug. I bought at that price, and then got $7 a jug rebate from Mobil.

All the jugs on the shelves are labeled synthetic blend.


Funny, because Exxon Mobil advertises that only their base stocks can meet SN/SN+ specs with group II. I guess this means that, except for labeling, there is no such thing as conventional motor oil any more. Paying a net 70 cents a quart for an SN+ oil is a deal that would have been pretty good twenty years ago. Nice find.

 

[Cujet]

Originally Posted by avi1777
Originally Posted by Cujet
M1, 5000 mile OCI's. That engine is sensitive to oil quality and has a number of known issues. All preventable with good maintenance.
more than 100 thousands engine failures due to metal shavings.


There may have been some that failed early on, due to metal contamination. The rest failed due to a highly stressed design, with insufficient bearing area (a nod to fuel economy) and the use of contaminated, thin oils, changed infrequently. It's no surprise that the rod bearing and timing chains go out simultaneously, due to wear. NOTE: a 30 viscosity oil is best for chains.

The solution is the same as always, choose a quality oil and change it at the severe service interval.

 

[JLTD]

Originally Posted by ernied
thanks money is not a problem I just don't want to waste oil.


A few UOAs will answer your questions, both about changing too early or too late.

 

[avi1777]

Originally Posted by racin4ds
An engine family known for issues, use a quality synthetic i.e Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra, Amsoil, Castrol etc. Just about anything but M1...

why not m1?
some of the m1 oils are top notch,not all of course
but ep is supposed to be very good for example.

 

[kschachn]

Originally Posted by avi1777
Originally Posted by racin4ds
An engine family known for issues, use a quality synthetic i.e Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra, Amsoil, Castrol etc. Just about anything but M1...
why not m1?
some of the m1 oils are top notch,not all of course
but ep is supposed to be very good for example.

Because this particular poster pops up with his baseless and silly anti-Mobil 1 trolling every once in a while. Ask him for actual evidence or proof and you'll get either crickets or more unsubstantiated nonsense.