I've been considering getting a bicycle for casual/pleasure riding. Guys, I haven't owned a bike since I was a kid. What's a good, relatively inexpensive bicycle these days?
Bicycle recommendations
- Thread starter Red91
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Can you state your budget? "Relatively inexpensive" is relatively vague.
Go to a local bike shop, talk to them and check out what they recommend. If you are old and just want something to tool around on getting something that fits you and is comfortable is probably the most important thing.
Otherwise just get something cheap and ride it a bit before you decide to invest. I would buy good condition used before I bought entry level new. I live in the city (Toronto) and there are places here that recondition used bikes for sale, but if you live in the sticks you can still probably find something cheap that has been looked over.
Otherwise just get something cheap and ride it a bit before you decide to invest. I would buy good condition used before I bought entry level new. I live in the city (Toronto) and there are places here that recondition used bikes for sale, but if you live in the sticks you can still probably find something cheap that has been looked over.
Fat Tires. Go for comfort. Check a few bike shops. College towns usually have a few good bike shops.
If you want the very best bicycle, I would look into Rivendell at https://www.rivbike.com/
I dream of getting one of them....
Just need about $1600-2500.
If you want the very best bicycle, I would look into Rivendell at https://www.rivbike.com/
I dream of getting one of them....
Just need about $1600-2500.
Like a hundred dollars or less...I sold a few bicycles last year that I got for free while doing scrapping and trash removal. They were all kids bikes except for one older Murray. It needed a resto but rode fine, but the seat position was uncomfortable and it only had one speed. I don't really want a mountain bike either.
Craigslist is loaded with hundred dollar bikes.
I like hybrid bikes. Reasonably comfortable, nice on pavement and ok on gravel. Have a peak at
hybrid bicycles
hybrid bicycles
You won't find anything new for $100. The cheapest halfway decent bikes are closer $400-600.
Start at your local bike shop. Look at Comfort and Hybrid bikes. Also 29er mountain bikes. Also get a copy of Bicycling magazine (discount bike ads in the back) and look a Nashbar.com , SJS Cycles.com. and Wiggle.com (Ireland/UK) for some ideas.
I think the following are important:
1. Brakes. Get disk brakes if you can. Hydraulic are superior to mechanical. If you haven't used one you will be amazed how well they stop, especially when wet.
2. Seat. You'll probably need an aftermarket seat. If you want extra comfort get a shock absorbing seat post.
3. Frame geometry. A longer frame is more stable at higher speeds, but doesn't turn as well. Look for a upright seating position.
4. Tires. Most tires that come with bikes are junk. You might want to upgrade them to reflect riding conditions. Look at aftermarket tires by Schwalbe. Wider tires are more stable and better on gravel.
5. Things like derailleur sets are not that important as long as they are name brand. Cheaper sets are heavier, but work just as well. As long has you have a wide range of gearing, you can go on most any terrain. Most people are fine with 7-9 gears, and one or two sprockets in front. You need even less if you ride on flat surfaces.
6. Shock absorbers smooth out your ride, but also use some energy.
7. Save some money for a lock , bright front and rear lights, a helmet (see consumer reports for ratings), and fenders if you ride in rain or mud,
Start at your local bike shop. Look at Comfort and Hybrid bikes. Also 29er mountain bikes. Also get a copy of Bicycling magazine (discount bike ads in the back) and look a Nashbar.com , SJS Cycles.com. and Wiggle.com (Ireland/UK) for some ideas.
I think the following are important:
1. Brakes. Get disk brakes if you can. Hydraulic are superior to mechanical. If you haven't used one you will be amazed how well they stop, especially when wet.
2. Seat. You'll probably need an aftermarket seat. If you want extra comfort get a shock absorbing seat post.
3. Frame geometry. A longer frame is more stable at higher speeds, but doesn't turn as well. Look for a upright seating position.
4. Tires. Most tires that come with bikes are junk. You might want to upgrade them to reflect riding conditions. Look at aftermarket tires by Schwalbe. Wider tires are more stable and better on gravel.
5. Things like derailleur sets are not that important as long as they are name brand. Cheaper sets are heavier, but work just as well. As long has you have a wide range of gearing, you can go on most any terrain. Most people are fine with 7-9 gears, and one or two sprockets in front. You need even less if you ride on flat surfaces.
6. Shock absorbers smooth out your ride, but also use some energy.
7. Save some money for a lock , bright front and rear lights, a helmet (see consumer reports for ratings), and fenders if you ride in rain or mud,
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Wow....y'all I'm just looking for something to ride around the neighborhood on. I was thinking just a basic nine or ten speed jobber. I appreciate the advice but the prospect of me paying 5-600 bucks for a bike is not feasible. I only paid a $1000 bucks for my car.
I pick up used Trek's, Cannondales, Fuji's or Specializeds for under $100 and fix them up for anywhere from $20 to $50, or just buy them ready to go for around $150.
Some people might complain if I buy a used bike for $75 and put $75 in it, I have $150 into a $125 bike. Boo-hoo. My $150 bike worth $125 has 2 new tires, 2 new tubes, fresh grease, a new front derailler, handlebar foam, brake pads, etc., etc., and it is exactly what I wanted.
Their theoretical $125 bike existed for $100 at one time on CL on the other coast and was bought 25 minutes later, and will never be available, to me, when I want it/need it. Not to mention, that bike needed new tires and had a frozen cable that wasn't on the listing.
Try a bunch of bikes at a bike store, then hang out on CL and Facebook Marketplace (seems to be the new hotness, at least in my area) until you see what you want. Then, jump on it, quickly.
NO2 gives good advice except for the brakes. Bikes cannot stop faster than their tires can hold traction. If you need to improve an older bike's braking, just put new, quality tires on it. Comparing the braking of a bike with old tires and old pads to a new bike is pointless. You're not going to find many cheap bikes out there with hydraulic brakes, don't waste your time.
One more thing, inspect older Aluminum bikes very carefully for cracks, or just pass on them altogether. Many cheaper Aluminum bikes are very heavy, heavier than their steel counterparts, and Aluminum frames (and especially forks) can fail suddenly and without warning.
Some people might complain if I buy a used bike for $75 and put $75 in it, I have $150 into a $125 bike. Boo-hoo. My $150 bike worth $125 has 2 new tires, 2 new tubes, fresh grease, a new front derailler, handlebar foam, brake pads, etc., etc., and it is exactly what I wanted.
Their theoretical $125 bike existed for $100 at one time on CL on the other coast and was bought 25 minutes later, and will never be available, to me, when I want it/need it. Not to mention, that bike needed new tires and had a frozen cable that wasn't on the listing.
Try a bunch of bikes at a bike store, then hang out on CL and Facebook Marketplace (seems to be the new hotness, at least in my area) until you see what you want. Then, jump on it, quickly.
NO2 gives good advice except for the brakes. Bikes cannot stop faster than their tires can hold traction. If you need to improve an older bike's braking, just put new, quality tires on it. Comparing the braking of a bike with old tires and old pads to a new bike is pointless. You're not going to find many cheap bikes out there with hydraulic brakes, don't waste your time.
One more thing, inspect older Aluminum bikes very carefully for cracks, or just pass on them altogether. Many cheaper Aluminum bikes are very heavy, heavier than their steel counterparts, and Aluminum frames (and especially forks) can fail suddenly and without warning.
OP, I agree with most of the others - you're much better off with a used bike-store bike than a comparably-priced new department-store bike. (There's a Brit fellow on-line who rants about department-store bikes and calls them "BSOs" - bicycle-shaped objects.)
I get that you're not planning to use it a lot, but if you like the bike you'll use it a lot more!
Let us know what you wind up with.
I get that you're not planning to use it a lot, but if you like the bike you'll use it a lot more!
Let us know what you wind up with.
I think anything around $100 is going to have junk suspension and junk disc brakes. I'd skip on both. Unless if you happen across someone who doesn't know what they have, that is. Ok fine, buy them if you want (and if they are cheap) but just don't have high expectations.
Rim brakes are just fine; slap a new set of pads on and it'll stop ok (as long as it's not steel rims; steel rims, err better not get them wet!). Cables aren't that hard to replace if rusty; chains are harder if rusted up but as long as it's still turning just overlook that and replace once home. I think Walmart has cheap chains, although you might just have to order one if worn. Good chance you might need tires if they are dry rotted; might as well buy a spare tube while at it. IMO just because the tires are cracked doesn't mean the tubes have to be replaced. At least one of my bikes has a tube older than me.
Older bikes that have been sitting may have had grease that dried up; I wouldn't ride more than a mile if it's been sitting for a decade or two. I think I wiped out the bearings on my first road bike by putting on 50 miles then repacking bearings... mind you it was a 20 year old bike that probably got ridden twice, put away, then I hopped on it... 20 years later (a 1987 model that I bought in 2008 or so for all of $5 during a town-wide yard sale). There is oodles of info on the web about how to repack bearings and work on bikes. Personally, snobs might hate me but I still am using the same cheapo Spin Doctors toolkit that I bought 10 years ago for bike work. I figured I'd replace tools as they wore out, and so far, none have.
I don't know what you are after, but if you are open to it, just throw your leg over a few bikes, maybe buy a few that strike your fancy. Flip the ones you don't like. Maybe you'll like dropbar bikes, maybe you'll prefer a more upright style. If you are starting from scratch then I'd try them all.
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My first road bike cost me $5, and got me 600 miles that summer. All the accessories I bought transferred over to my new bike. I'm not really a bike snob but I would see nothing wrong with having a bicycle of higher value than my daily driver. My car takes me to work; my bicycle takes me to places I want to be. Huge difference.
Rim brakes are just fine; slap a new set of pads on and it'll stop ok (as long as it's not steel rims; steel rims, err better not get them wet!). Cables aren't that hard to replace if rusty; chains are harder if rusted up but as long as it's still turning just overlook that and replace once home. I think Walmart has cheap chains, although you might just have to order one if worn. Good chance you might need tires if they are dry rotted; might as well buy a spare tube while at it. IMO just because the tires are cracked doesn't mean the tubes have to be replaced. At least one of my bikes has a tube older than me.
Older bikes that have been sitting may have had grease that dried up; I wouldn't ride more than a mile if it's been sitting for a decade or two. I think I wiped out the bearings on my first road bike by putting on 50 miles then repacking bearings... mind you it was a 20 year old bike that probably got ridden twice, put away, then I hopped on it... 20 years later (a 1987 model that I bought in 2008 or so for all of $5 during a town-wide yard sale). There is oodles of info on the web about how to repack bearings and work on bikes. Personally, snobs might hate me but I still am using the same cheapo Spin Doctors toolkit that I bought 10 years ago for bike work. I figured I'd replace tools as they wore out, and so far, none have.
I don't know what you are after, but if you are open to it, just throw your leg over a few bikes, maybe buy a few that strike your fancy. Flip the ones you don't like. Maybe you'll like dropbar bikes, maybe you'll prefer a more upright style. If you are starting from scratch then I'd try them all.
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My first road bike cost me $5, and got me 600 miles that summer. All the accessories I bought transferred over to my new bike. I'm not really a bike snob but I would see nothing wrong with having a bicycle of higher value than my daily driver. My car takes me to work; my bicycle takes me to places I want to be. Huge difference.
Originally Posted by Number_35
OP, I agree with most of the others - you're much better off with a used bike-store bike than a comparably-priced new department-store bike. (There's a Brit fellow on-line who rants about department-store bikes and calls them "BSOs" - bicycle-shaped objects.)
I used to frequent bikeforums.net a lot and I remember that term! Boy do those bikes get looked down on. But there really is a big difference, at least to those who rack up the miles.
I think there's a fair amount of those BSO's on CL for reasonable money. If nothing else the entry price is low enough to try some out and to figure out what one likes and doesn't like. Then go buy a "real" bike.
Ok even a BSO is a real bike (it can go places) but if ridden enough it might be more of a pain than a higher quality bike. But it may well be good enough, and I don't look down on those who have one. Just get out and ride.
OP, I agree with most of the others - you're much better off with a used bike-store bike than a comparably-priced new department-store bike. (There's a Brit fellow on-line who rants about department-store bikes and calls them "BSOs" - bicycle-shaped objects.)
I used to frequent bikeforums.net a lot and I remember that term! Boy do those bikes get looked down on. But there really is a big difference, at least to those who rack up the miles.
I think there's a fair amount of those BSO's on CL for reasonable money. If nothing else the entry price is low enough to try some out and to figure out what one likes and doesn't like. Then go buy a "real" bike.
How tall are you? I'm a hair under 6'3" and a one size fits all department store bike meant for the average guy doesn't work for me.
You can get different sized bike frames to fit you just right from a bike shop.
I've noticed people who know very little about bikes often equate the size of the bikes wheels to it's size.
I've also noticed people who know little about bikes think they should be able to put their feet on the ground while on the seat. You need proper leg extension to pedal efficiently.
YES, there are absolute deal found occasionally on CL for bikes and I'd check that out first.
The bike below has modern 700X38 tires, you don't want any wider than that unless you want to exert more energy pedaling. That size has the perfect balance of comfort and efficiency.
Me? I'd spend the $200 and get this in the largest size they make: http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/dawes/eclipse-city-bikes.htm
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2019/07/full-55018-34819-ecc_blk_men_2100.jpg "[Linked Image]")
You can get different sized bike frames to fit you just right from a bike shop.
I've noticed people who know very little about bikes often equate the size of the bikes wheels to it's size.
I've also noticed people who know little about bikes think they should be able to put their feet on the ground while on the seat. You need proper leg extension to pedal efficiently.
YES, there are absolute deal found occasionally on CL for bikes and I'd check that out first.
The bike below has modern 700X38 tires, you don't want any wider than that unless you want to exert more energy pedaling. That size has the perfect balance of comfort and efficiency.
Me? I'd spend the $200 and get this in the largest size they make: http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/dawes/eclipse-city-bikes.htm
I'll keep these things in mind moving forward. Probably will look online this week. I've never really been into bikes so you guys are throwing some stuff out there I wasn't aware of. I figured, unless you were a serious peddler, a bike was a bike? I guess they're more like different qualities of cars.
There are always lots of used, more expensive, brand name bikes for sale, bought by people who had to have a brand name bike just because ... they ride it a few times, realize that they are not really into cycling, then dump it a few years later. There are deals out there ... but do realize that $ 100 is on the very low side price wise.
And understand that a used Walmart bike that has probably never even had the chain lubed will likely ride TERRIBLE. And if that is what you start off riding, you will hate riding bikes.
And understand that a used Walmart bike that has probably never even had the chain lubed will likely ride TERRIBLE. And if that is what you start off riding, you will hate riding bikes.
Cannondales are nice rides..we have 2 street bikes with upright handle bars so we do not have to ride bent over. Not cheap...
Originally Posted by Red91
Like a hundred dollars or less...I sold a few bicycles last year that I got for free while doing scrapping and trash removal. They were all kids bikes except for one older Murray. It needed a resto but rode fine, but the seat position was uncomfortable and it only had one speed. I don't really want a mountain bike either.
Buy a used one. Many good quality ones out there for less than $100.
Like a hundred dollars or less...I sold a few bicycles last year that I got for free while doing scrapping and trash removal. They were all kids bikes except for one older Murray. It needed a resto but rode fine, but the seat position was uncomfortable and it only had one speed. I don't really want a mountain bike either.
Buy a used one. Many good quality ones out there for less than $100.
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