Rotor set screw

[Brybo86]

So I am having a high pitched brake type noise coming from the right rear of my 95 LS.
I jack up the wheel and I have a tiny bit of play left to right.
I wiggle it from underneath and can't see any movement at any suspension parts.
I take off the cotter pin and locking cap and sure enough the 32mm axle nut is just loose....

It is supposed to be torqued to 213 ft lbs...
i tighten it and i no longer have a left/right rocking.

while checking further i notice that there arent any rotor set crews holding the rotor in place so it is slightly off center. The shoes are both slightly more worn at the top than the bottom. i think that as the wheel rotates the rorotr is off center and is barely rubbing on the shoes

I try a few M6 dorman honda set screws but they hold the rim like 0.5mm off the face of the hub and it rocks on them.


where can i find rotor set screws that fit? the tapered rear part of the screw hold the flat portion out too far?
file it down mb?

 

[Dadillac]

You do not need the screws. Manufacturers use them during vehicle assembly to keep the rotors securely in place before the wheels are installed who knows how much later. The rotors center on the hub and lugs and the wheel flushes it up to the hub. Obviously if installing the screws will set your mind at ease then do so. But it really isn't necessary for any function.

Don

 

[Eddie]

I have never replaced them. Ed

 

[vavavroom]

One function of the rotor set screw is that it allows you to mount the rotor in the exact same position where it was before you removed it.

 

[eljefino]

I'd worry more about your wheel bearing. Not normal to retorque a high-torque nut. (The old ones with deliberate play are different.)

 

[old1]

What does the picture of the worn out drum brakes have to do with the OP's problem?

 

[mk378]

+1 Likely the bearings are toast from driving with the nut loose. Have you put it all together and test driven?

The rotor is a hub-centric design; the screws are only so the car can go down the assembly line with the rotor in place but not the caliper. Many cars don't have them from the factory.

 

[Hall]

Before I saw the threaded hole in the hub I thought maybe the holes (in the rotor) you were trying were ones you use for pushing the rotor off of the hub when they get rusted together.

 

[maxdustington]

Originally Posted by Dadillac
You do not need the screws. Manufacturers use them during vehicle assembly to keep the rotors securely in place before the wheels are installed who knows how much later. The rotors center on the hub and lugs and the wheel flushes it up to the hub. Obviously if installing the screws will set your mind at ease then do so. But it really isn't necessary for any function.

Don
They are nice to have on cars that use lug bolts instead of studs.

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted by eljefino
I'd worry more about your wheel bearing. Not normal to retorque a high-torque nut. (The old ones with deliberate play are different.)


This^^

 

[atikovi]

Use them all the time. Makes assembly easier and looks professional. Just put a dab of anti seize on the threads.

 

[UG_Passat]

Originally Posted by old1
What does the picture of the worn out drum brakes have to do with the OP's problem?


You do realize, many cars with rear disc brakes uses an internal drum brake as the parking brake, right? OP says right rear brake.

 

[Kira]

That's a pretty picture antikovi

 

[JeffKeryk]

Perhaps a dab of anti seize and don't over tighten them...

 

[atikovi]

Originally Posted by Kira
That's a pretty picture antikovi


More brake porn.

 

[Brybo86]

Originally Posted by JeffKeryk
Perhaps a dab of anti seize and don't over tighten them...

They don't screw in far enough... They stick out from the rotor surface and hold the wheel off the rotor surface.
I don't understand how antisieze and lightly tightening would help...

 

[Hall]

Originally Posted by Brybo86
They don't screw in far enough... They stick out from the rotor surface and hold the wheel off the rotor surface.

You've got the wrong screws

 

[JeffKeryk]

Originally Posted by Brybo86
Originally Posted by JeffKeryk
Perhaps a dab of anti seize and don't over tighten them...

They don't screw in far enough... They stick out from the rotor surface and hold the wheel off the rotor surface.
I don't understand how antisieze and lightly tightening would help...

I thought you were talking about Honda rotor screws that hold the rotor to the hub.
At any rate, good luck...

 

[nbpt100]

The screws are standard flat head screws (not set screws) which you should be able to find in any decent hardware store. The Honda's and VW's use M6-1.0 x 12, I think or maybe x 13. On flat head screws you measure the entire length. Not just the threaded portion. On my Kia they use M8 x 1.25. If they are not going in all of the way I would think one of two things. You have the wrong screw or the thread is buggered up. 1st confirm you have the correct diameter and thread pitch. Then if you have the correct metric tap you can run it through to clean up the threads. As said many times here. These are not at all required. But if you prefer to use them I get it.

 

[kschachn]

My contribution from my ancient old BMW, very likely the last time. New pads, new rotors and one new caliper on the other side.

The screw is very helpful when you have wheel bolts instead of nuts, otherwise the rotor can turn on the hub and make it difficult to install the wheel.

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