VW gas caps

[Short_Bus]

I'm getting an evap code error on my daughter's 2009 VW Rabbit. I thought I'd start with replacing be the gas cap as an easy starting point.

I picked up a cap from the parts store, got home and got it out, but it clearly isn't the same one. I took it back, the parts guys (at Oreilly) couldn't figure out which cap it uses. They said they didn't remember ever seeing anything that even looked similar. They ran the part number and came up negative as well.

I found the one I think I need online, but it shows up under slightly different part numbers.

The one on the car now is 1J0201553N. The ones I find online have different numbers, like - 5C0201550E.

They look the same. I've checked several online parts houses and they all come back with different numbers when I put in the year/make/model.

Does anyone know if any of parts # for this style VW cap will interchange?

 

[RooflessVW]

Go to the dealer, get a new gas cap.

Better yet, go to the dealer and have the car properly diagnosed.

 

[user52165]

OEM dealer part is best here.

Aftermarket may look alike but just don't perform.

 

[LotI]

Go to VW Parts. The OE will be your best choice.

Using the lookup for a ‘09 Rabbit it shows 1K0201550AJ but double check with the VIN.

You may want to have a diagnosis done instead of bringing out the parts gun first.

 

[mattd]

It's very rare for a VW gas cap to fail FWIW

 

[Short_Bus]

The other main cause for this error is the evap purge valve which I understand is a pretty common fail point.

Cost for the purge valve is similar to the gas cap but is a little more work but doesn't look like it takes too long. Any guesses as to which is the more likely cause?

Ideally yes, test and find the problem first, but I can buy a lot of parts for the cost of dealer diagnostics.

 

[RooflessVW]

Originally Posted by Short_Bus
The other main cause for this error is the evap purge valve which I understand is a pretty common fail point.

Cost for the purge valve is similar to the gas cap but is a little more work but doesn't look like it takes too long. Any guesses as to which is the more likely cause?

Ideally yes, test and find the problem first, but I can buy a lot of parts for the cost of dealer diagnostics.

My dealer charges .5 for diag. That'd be $51 well spent in my area.

 

[atikovi]

Originally Posted by rooflessVW
Originally Posted by Short_Bus
The other main cause for this error is the evap purge valve which I understand is a pretty common fail point.

Cost for the purge valve is similar to the gas cap but is a little more work but doesn't look like it takes too long. Any guesses as to which is the more likely cause?

Ideally yes, test and find the problem first, but I can buy a lot of parts for the cost of dealer diagnostics.

My dealer charges .5 for diag. That'd be $51 well spent in my area.


That's probably just to plug in their scan tool and get the codes. Diagnosing evap codes usually requires a smoke machine, putting the car on a lift to check the lines running from the front to the back, often moving parts out of the way to examine the lines, etc. A bit more than 1/2 hour.

 

[knerml]

Before replacing gas cap, clean and lightly lube the cap's o-ring.

Also, clean the area where the o-ring seats in the inlet.

 

[nthach]

German cars and Toyotas are the few cars I suggest that the OEM cap is the only recommended replacement. Every other OEM uses Stant, but O'Reilly/AZ/PB tends to stock caps from MotoRad.

EVAP systems on German cars also tend to be delicate and hard to track down leaks. Lots of Oetiker clamps and fragile lines.

If your state does EVAP testing on older and pre-2001 OBD-II cars if they do smog checks, there's a good chance the fuel cap will be tested. Maybe ask a smog tech if they can test the cap? If it holds vacuum during the test and passes, the culprit is an EVAP leak or a bad valve.

 

[Short_Bus]

The one O'Reilly tried to give me wasn't even a close approximation of the OEM cap. Their system pulled up 'normal' style cap with big threads. It wasn't even the same diameter - it wouldn't even fit into the opening.

The only replacement ones I have found that are the correct style all have the VW/Audi mark on them. So I expect I'll end up with an OE one if I get one.

For now, I ordered a new purge valve since they are cheap ($12 for a Bosch) and easy to replace.

The cap seal looks in good shape as does the sealing surface, but will replace it if the valve doesn't do the trick.

If no luck after that, I suppose I'll end up biting the bullet and taking it to get smoke tested.