Two Cans of BG MOA too much?

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My 2009 G8 requires 8 quarts of oil. Directions on the can say to add 1 11oz. can per 4-5 quarts of oil. Just didn't wanna go overkill with the additive as MOA has a pretty potent detergents and cause any unnecessary wear. If that's even possible?

(Note: I primarily use this additive to help quieten the typical LS "sewing machine tick".)
 
I'll answer the question and not go into the typical discussion/bashing etc. that comes when an additive is mentioned. I would dose it based on 11 ounces to 5 quarts of oil. So in round numbers I would add a pint to an 8 quart sump.
 
I used MOA in an 01 Volvo S60 and afterwards it slowly began using oil. Maybe a coincidence but I won't use the stuff anymore. I do use liqui moly oil saver from time to time and it quiets the Nissan 2.5.
 
Appreciate the responses.

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For that price look for something that has been proven to work. Molakule has a post somewhere on here about Schaeffers Moly EP, which can be found for roughly the same price as MOA
 
Nice car, I'd only consider using a couple additives, and bg moa is one of them, but not for your purposes. I like it if someone is real busy and can't change their oil or in need of a tbn boost for a particular reason, maybe a safe clean flush to add 500 miles before an oil change. The science of moly additives would suggest it would be better at killing tick then bg moa, and those are generally the only other additives I'd consider. Lubegard biotech and m0s2 are the most popular. Shaeffers says it is a moly boost, but that isn't true, it is more of an oil thickner with very low moly, not much better the lucas snot. BTW, if you want to try an oil known for killing ticks, Redline has killed more hemi ticks then anything I've seen, research it. Follow the science these particlar additives work at quieting tick, so does additives like shaefefrs or lucas, but at what cost? Those are similar to adding corn starch to a soup, they will thicken your oil like nobodies business. I'd just try shaeffers oil before their moly boost, that would actually lower moly if you add their "moly" boost to their oil. The juice isn't worth the queeze in my opinion. good luck
 
If there is more current info post it, but THIS aint going into anything I own, unless maybe I was selling it and wanted a shotgun approach.

Shaefefrs moly treat below.


It is not really a Moly add, in fact it has very little Moly.

Here is a VOA of it, probably a few years old, a buddy sent it to me. It is know for Antimony, but that wasn't a good name for it.

Chromium 1
Nickel 1
Lead 3
Tin 1
Silver 0.3
Vanadium 3

Moly 23
Phosphorus 104
Zinc 6
Antimony 23

Vi @ 40c 2545.6
Vi @ 100c 238.5
VI Index 232
TAN 0.17
TBN 0.34
 
I agree that cst is insane! I am a big Redline supporter, but just didn't work out on my application. Seems as though their startup weight was a bit on the thicker side, which made the tick even more prominent on start-up.
 
I think archoil 9100 or LUBEGARD biotech would be a good idea. Someone above posted that bg moa caused consumption and my guess is the crazy high calcium cleaned and loosened up some dirt or carbon.
 
Originally Posted by burla
Even if they use a type of moly that doesn't register in a uoa, that cst is crazy?

That makes no sense, there is no "type of moly" that won't show up in a UOA. If it contains molybdenum atoms it will register in an ICP analysis, all compounds are decomposed in the plasma even oxides.
 
Originally Posted by LSXHitman
I agree that cst is insane! I am a big Redline supporter, but just didn't work out on my application. Seems as though their startup weight was a bit on the thicker side, which made the tick even more prominent on start-up.

With Red Line, you can often drop a grade. Ignore the SAE grade and pay attention to the HTHS. If the vehicle originally specifies a 5w-30 ILSAC, then Red Line 5w-20 would be suitable. 0w-20 could even work, with a very slightly lower HTHS.
 
Read up on the use of Antimony in engine oils and how it pairs with moly and creates a film on areas wear is most common.
 
Originally Posted by GumbyJarvis
Read up on the use of Antimony in engine oils and how it pairs with moly and creates a film on areas wear is most common.

According to a couple of blenders, Torco and Schaeffer to name them (and noted in your signature).
 
Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by GumbyJarvis
Read up on the use of Antimony in engine oils and how it pairs with moly and creates a film on areas wear is most common.

According to a couple of blenders, Torco and Schaeffer to name them (and noted in your signature).

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=729162

Highly respected unbiased member Molakule has a recipe known as the "Molabrew" on here using LC20 and Moly EP.

I'm a schaeffers user. I make no money recommending them on here or anywhere, but I will stand by their products.

I'm also not a big oil additive guy, and have never used Moly EP, but I am trusting of Molakule and his recommendations in the past.
 
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Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by GumbyJarvis
Read up on the use of Antimony in engine oils and how it pairs with moly and creates a film on areas wear is most common.

According to a couple of blenders, Torco and Schaeffer to name them (and noted in your signature).


As well as RLI in their actual oils, and 'booster' additive.
wink.gif
 
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