What is a good way to clean this cylinder head?

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I'd like to clean up a previous oil leak, including the spark plug wells. Should I use a pressure washer???That and how do I clean the exhaust manifold mating surface?

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Originally Posted by zzyzzx
I'd like to clean up a previous oil leak, including the spark plug wells.


Nobody pulls a head to clean up an oil leak. What's the whole story?
 
Originally Posted by atikovi
Originally Posted by zzyzzx
I'd like to clean up a previous oil leak, including the spark plug wells.


Nobody pulls a head to clean up an oil leak. What's the whole story?


I am replacing the head gasket gasket.
 
Looks aluminum...maybe a big bucket of old time Berryman carb cleaner. The stuff that worked back in the day and made me gag with its smell.
 
Originally Posted by sloinker
Looks aluminum...maybe a big bucket of old time Berryman carb cleaner. The stuff that worked back in the day and made me gag with its smell.


That would destroy the valve guide seals! Though I would recommend replacing them anyway.
 
Originally Posted by atikovi
So what is it? Old style rocker arms suggests a domestic. Cam drive pulley so not a V8 but OHC 4. 2 valve aluminum head. 80s or early 90s GM?


1995 Ford Escort with 1.9L engine.
 
Originally Posted by Roadkingnc
I would have the valves and seats checked, those were known to drop valve seats which males for a bad day


Totally not necessary. Jasper already did this.
 
I would use a die grinder with scotch pads attachment. Or just scotch pads with manual labor from my hands, perhaps a wire brush.

and then use a Starrett metal ruler and feeler gauges to check for flatness.

if needed find a piece of glass and lay down a sheet of sand paper (4000 grit) and do some poor boy garage machining. I use a surface plate, and use those 6" "stickey" orbital sanding disc, and I can get things very flat.
 
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Just a wire wheel in a drill, and Scotchbrite. Take your time, don't get aggressive

chase the threads if needed

anti-sieze on all bolts that thread into aluminum
 
Use a flat file and draw it sideways across the manifold sealing face. The technique of "draw-filing" is an old one, but done correctly, it can result in a very flat, clean surface.

It does take some skill to watch what's happening with the high and low spots. Typically, high spots are around bolt holes.

Kerosene makes a good file lubricant
 
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Gasoline and a paint brush will clean the oil off with ease.

A wire brush on a die grinder or drill will take care of the exhaust ports.
 
Machine shop would be my pick, but if you had to it yourself, Roloc bristle discs or a wire cup brush would be my pick for the exhaust ports. For the head, you need to take a straight edge and a feeler gauge to check for a warped head surface and don't use any abrasives to clean the block and head.

If you can get the right tools, replacing valve stem seals wouldn't be too bad to do with that head. If that's the case, you can still get the "good" Chemdip that will remove anything that isn't metal. The motorcycle guys have found Lestoil to also work as a dip, if you don't mind a little manual labor.
 
Just have a machine shop do it. I can't imagine them charging you more than $200 for a cleaning, steam seals and inspection.
 
When I have more time, I will update the thread with more pics and information (and background), But for now, the engine block is OK, and not warped and the bolt holes have been cleaned and all is good there except for some more cleaning that I'd like to do:


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Anyway, I really do need to know if I have cleaned up the exhaust manifold surface good enough:
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