Using GL5 when called for GL4.

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find a dealer in your area that carries redline MTL, its GL-4

Works great in my old trans, go to redlines website and do a dealer locatator. Its about 6-7 dollars a quart where i bought mine.
 
Most Sentra's require a 75W85 fluid.

Our MTL-P is a 75W85 with an API rating of GL4/GL5 which provides plenty of wear protection and is optimized for synchromesh operation.
 
I've been using Mobil1 75w-90 GL5 in my 91 Miata since I picked it up 30,000 miles ago (74k on the odo) and have no problems with it at all.
 
In some/most cases it will work.........there are some MT's where a real highly EP loaded GL-5 gear is not the best choice - synchros don't work as well.

Here's what I recommend: MTG
 
If that is the route you are going to go, then make sure the bottle is labeled for both - that is, GL4 -GL5. If it says GL5 only, I'd continue shopping.
Not to be insensitive, but skipping a lunch or two to get the best performing trans lube is well worth it.
What is your trans worth? How about shifting?
 
GL-4 vs GL-5 other than vis grade is only the difference in amount of AW/EP additive put into the oil. Most oil companies will use 1 additive package for both Gl-4 and Gl-5 the difference is a GL-4 will take a treat of 2%wt and a GL-5 will be a treat of 7%. same additive just more so normally a GL-5 will work fine unless the higher additive causes brass corrosion then a lower GL-4 will be better.

bruce
 
Dear experienced Bitog members, I need your advice. My car's (1992 nissan sentra with GA16DE)manual transmission calls for Gl4 transmission fluid.All I can find is GL5 transmission fluid in good brands like penzoil...The shipping is too expensive for me for the speciality formulations MTL transmission fluid. Does anybody put GL5 fluid instead of GL4 and did anybody observed any problems. My best friend has a Mazda Miata, he bought with 98k on it and now he has 168k on it, he only used GL5 fluid. Do you think it is just a coincidence. Thank you for taking your time
 
quote:

the difference is a GL-4 will take a treat of 2%wt and a GL-5 will be a treat of 7%. same additive just more so normally a GL-5 will work fine unless the higher additive causes brass corrosion then a lower GL-4 will be better

Most EP additves today (since about 1995) include corrosion inhibitors and metal deactivators so the copper alloy corrosion scare is largely a thing of the past. Modern "dual-rated" GL4/GL5 lubes for MT's are completely safe. I know ours are after 5 years+ of testing in all kinds of manual transmissions.
 
I've used Castrol Hypoy C 75w-90 GL-5 in my Corolla's transaxle and it shifted great. However, I tried a GL-5 synthetic (Pennzoil 75w-90), and I literally could not drive around my block. Stuck in 1st cause it wasn't goin into 2nd without some grinding effort. MTL-R from SF has of course been the best.
 
Quote:
"Most EP additves today (since about 1995) include corrosion inhibitors and metal deactivators so the copper alloy corrosion scare is largely a thing of the past. Modern "dual-rated" GL4/GL5 lubes for MT's are completely safe. I know ours are after 5 years+ of testing in all kinds of manual transmissions."

That is very true but some commodity type packages are low on the copper inhibitor and oxidation stability range. With high heat, water contamination and oxidation some packages can "break down or wear out" the copper inhibitor that is why using a GL-5 where a GL-4 can be used maybe asking for trouble.

This can be seen in any major additive suppliers product offerings in that most have a low buck fighting grade and then more premium produts perhaps like what you use in your lubes in that case there is no problem.

bruce
 
Use either the GL4 or dual spec GL4/GL5 fluids in that ol' Nissan.

Mazda allows GL4 or GL5 and should not be used as a comparison.

Most autoparts stores/bike shops/speedshops usually have at least one gear oil that is GL4 or dual rated in the 85wt or preferably 90wt viscosity.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Leo:
Why not just use OEM fluid if its difficult to find?

Because the dealer markup for a cheap mineral oil isn't justified. Plus, to increase profit margins, some dealers will use non-OEM fluids from their 'bulk oil distributor' instead of the company branded products.

Most "boutique" oils cost the same and perform better!
 
My guess is the OEM fluid is so outrageously priced that you could go aftermarket for the same price and get a clearly superior fluid.

What weight do you need ... have the manual?

Many older Nissan trannies call for a 75W-90 or 80W-90. You might get away with one of the better off-the-shelf GL5 oils as corrosivity is not the problem it was a decade or more ago ... but then again, you might not.

You're best off with the better, name-brand gear oils as opposed to the Supertech and other off-brand stuff.

I just don't think it's a gamble worth taking for $10-15 or so in savings.
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--- Bror Jace
 
I have a question, we had the clutch changed 15k miles ago(at 90k). Does the shop have to replace the transmission fluid or clutch or transmission fluid in different places?I dont know what is now in the tranmission but I can change the gears with 1 finger of me without any difficulty. BUT, in atlanta winters(40F is winter) when I first start the car, it is hard to change the gears especially to second one. That's the main reason why I would like to change the transmission fluid. I respect Bror Jace and his posts both here and nissanforums.com and I think I will either buy redline from myoilshop.com for $33 including shipping or from spe. fluids purple stuff for $45. I asked some speed shops here but redline is more expensive than myoilshop.com. Thank you for helping me out.
 
Normally, you drain the trans fluid for a clutch change on a FWD vehicle. It would pour out of the axle shaft holes [unless plugged].
Check your reciept for the clutch job - they won't give you free fluid, although they may have put the old stuff back in.
 
You can run GL-4, dual rated GL-4/GL-5 or GL-5/MT-1 in this application. I used the old dual rated Amsoil stuff in GL-4, VW transaxle applications for 25 years with no durability issues. So I know for a fact that's safe to do.

I like the Redline MT-90 and the new GL-4 rated, Amsoil 75w-90 or the Specialty Lubes (a site sponser), "MTL-P" gear lube for this application.

TS
 
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