Originally Posted by stockrex
Originally Posted by Chris142
Keep in mind that if you want me to properly charge it after you messed with it that im a week behind right now
ok, I might not make the drive to socal with no a/c
I cycled the temps and it does blow really hot when I put it to all the hot at 90 F.
Then I backed down to 60F and the air was a little cooler than outside air.
I will take temps of the hoses today with my laser temp gun,
Grab one of those $3 meat thermometers like you would find in the BBQ isle of the local grocery store. It's got the long metal end to stab into some slab of beef, and it's got a round thermometer face on the other end to make it easy to read the temp of whatever the probe is inside.
Jam one of those into your dash vent with the A/C blowing full blast and on recirculate. Let it sit in there for a minute or so, until the needle stops moving basically, and that's the temp you will want to use in interpreting any PSI readings of the manifold gauges as well as just for general system health checkups.
As for the pressure readings, you will need both the high side psi and low side psi to truly be able to discern what might be going on with the freon charge. The little tube and gauges that come with the freon for sale in local Walmart or Autozone is for low side pressure only. That is only 50% of the input data you need to tell what is going on with the system.
NOTE: People have used the low side pressure readings as their only clue to what's happening in the system and acted accordingly, and some have even had success in fixing whatever the problem was. Many have failed in the same scenario though, so you should really get the gauges that provide both psi readings if you plan on touching the charge. Doing anything with only half the required input data is a gamble at the very least, and not one with great odds of winning I might add.