Which conventional oil do you use and why?

[007]

I could be wrong but aren't Walmart's conventional and synthetic oils sold under Super Tech certified for use in all vehicles just like the name brands but cost less.

 

[4WD]

They have some OEM approvals … but several they don't have …

 

[csandste]

Originally Posted by 007
I could be wrong but aren't Walmart's conventional and synthetic oils sold under Super Tech certified for use in all vehicles just like the name brands but cost less.

Nope: WPP, Amalie, or Exxon-Mobil

 

[dadto2]

I was using Super Tech 10w-30 in the S70 in my signature, until I discovered that the Runnings store nearby periodically has Harvest King 10w-30 for $9.47 per 5qt jug. Our other vehicles get Syn. Pretty much use my 4 Mobil 1 rebates per year up on those...

 

[007]

Originally Posted by csandste

I could be wrong but aren't Walmart's conventional and synthetic oils sold under Super Tech certified for use in all vehicles just like the name brands but cost less.

Nope: WPP, Amalie, or Exxon-Mobil

https://mechanicbase.com/reviews/supertech-engine-oil-review/

 

[slug_bug]

Mobil Super 5000 because it was .45 per quart. I'll switch back to full synthetic for $2 per quart and 8k OCI when the MS5K is gone. Except for the Miata, that only gets full syn and a 5k OCI because it's GDI.

 

[Overfill]

I have arrived at using a conventional HDEO for a lot of needs.
I would otherwise use a low VII ACEA A3/B4 or MB 229.51 oil, but I get pretty bad fuel dilution, and I cannot risk my car being out of service, so I limit my OCI based on what I consider excessive fuel dilution, which for me is around 100-115 hours (~4500miles).
At that kind of timing, I don't believe I need something that is PAO/ Ester base, but thick cuts of Group II+ or III should be good.
I would like something that will protect the pistons as much as reasonably possible, so Im looking for something that is not going to develop deposits easily (low VII and HTHS >3.0 by the end of the OCI, and AW content that matches OCI)
With the viscosity change, I need something that is above my target operating HTHSV, so something just over 3.5cst.
I need something that has good TBN to deal with the intruding gas' acidity. (not really sure if this is appropriate, 'been studying that part..)

I'd pick a MB 228.31 HDEO that is low VI. (I figure the 228.31 vs 228.3 for low SA, which can only help prevent deposits)
10w-30 would be great, but I can find 15w-40 easier, so I've just been bringing down the viscosity with a low VI synthetic 5w-20 (PPHM) *puts on flame suit*

Edit: I should add that I have no issues/demands with cranking my oil year-round, as the lowest it has gotten here is 20-something Fahrenheit.
Edit2: I could use a cheap group III blend certed only to API SN, but Mobil's got delvac deals I can't turn down; I change my oil once a month.

 

[MONKEYMAN]

Chevron Supreme 10w-30 because I had 5 jugs left over from previous car, it meets 2017 Elantra specs, and engine runs well this oil. I would say better than the PP and PUP synthetic oils I used in the Fall/Winter.

 

[01rangerxl]

I use O'Reilly's conventional 10W40 high mileage in my older trucks. I'm hesitant to change things up with 25 year old gaskets that have 200-250K miles on them, and the oil is cheap enough with my commercial account at work.

 

[tiger862]

I ran only conventional oil up to a couple years ago then notice synthetic is cheaper. 5w20 Havoline ProDS for under 20.00 for 6 qt. box. 3.00 a quart is not bad and meets spec.

 

[Pat in Speedway]

I'm running Phillips 66 Shield Choice syn-blend during the warm months. The reason is because I hit the sales at Orscheln's for $1.99/quart and stock up. The other reason is I own stock in Phillips 66. Winter months I switch to a full synthetic - usually Amsoil - for the cold flow benefits and the fact I'm not getting out in the garage to change oil when it's 10F outside.

 

[csandste]

Originally Posted by 007
Originally Posted by csandste

I could be wrong but aren't Walmart's conventional and synthetic oils sold under Super Tech certified for use in all vehicles just like the name brands but cost less.

Nope: WPP, Amalie, or Exxon-Mobil

https://mechanicbase.com/reviews/supertech-engine-oil-review/

Nothing against ST. I could have sworn that the original post I responded to mentioned Valvoline. Just came off a 6K run of ST synthetic getting my car out to a mileage divisible by 5000 miles. Maybe I had some sort of mini-stroke and the clot triggered my Valvoline sensor.

 

[larrymoencurly]

5W-30 or 10W-30 Walmart SuperTech. I used to get Mobil Super for less, after rebate, but now Walmart prices it the same as Mobil 1 synthetic. I use conventional oil in my Nissan because I'm too lazy to fix a slight oil leak that gets a lot worse if I use more than 40% synthetic, but I haven't tried high mileage synthetic in it.

 

[jongies3]

PYB because it is well reviewed and seems to be one of the top tier conventional oils out there. Buick seems to love it! Thinking about switching the Tacoma over since it won't get driven much anymore but I dunno, has had Mobil 1 in it for so long I kinda scoff at the idea of switching. I would use syn in the Buick but it has a few small leaks so not worth it to use expensive oil in something that needs to be added to often.

 

[berniedd]

I use Fully Synthetic Mag1 10W-30 in my newer vehicles when changing the oil, then use Conventional Mag1 10W-30 to top up halfway into the OCI. Just because the Conventional is a bit cheaper.

 

[wemay]

If it meets specs, i will use them on occasion (much less often than syn). The reason i don't use them more is because, as stated earlier, synthetics can be found for the same price. The only place this is even an issue is on bitog.

VWB
QSAD
F.SHELL

 

[ka9mnx]

I only use conventional in the OPE's. ST 10w-30 or 10w-40.

 

[sw99]

I run whatever is the cheapest of the major brands.

 

[mjk]

Originally Posted by sw99
I run whatever is the cheapest of the major brands.