Using synthetic to clean a crankcase

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2002 Ford Ranger Edge 3.0L 67k


So my ranger that I have made quite a few threads about lately is running much better now after having replaced bad plug wires and a coil pack. Went ahead and replaced the serp belt and tensioner as well as the idler pulley.

The truck had Castrol conventional 5w-20 and a purolator filter from a quick lube joint when I bought it from previous owner. First thing I did was changed oil and filter to Castrol Edge 5w-30 and a fram xg3600.
How long should I run this OCI before changing it again if I'm wanting to clean the motor internally? I know it will take more than one change to see most if any results.

Do I leave the CE in it for a full 5k then dump it or sooner? What do you guys think? I do want to do a black stone UOA but I think doing one on a "cleaning" OCI would be pointless because of possible contamination from prior conventional oils.
 
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Edit: forgot to mention that I did run a can of seafoam through the gas tank and then filled with premium gas as well. So for sure won't be sampling this OCI for black stone.
 
What did the oil look like when you drained it? Did you cut open the filter? I would run it at least 2000 miles depending on what the old oil looked like.
 
Originally Posted by oldhp
What did the oil look like when you drained it? Did you cut open the filter? I would run it at least 2000 miles depending on what the old oil looked like.


The oil looked decent for having been told by the previous owner that it had been changed approximately three months prior. Her driving conditions are/were unknown to me so I don't know what it was exposed to during her time of ownership.
 
I had a 2.3L 2005 Ranger that was a fleet vehicle for a few years before I purchased it in 2008. It had 80,XXX miles on it and tons of idle time when I purchased it, there was some build up under the covers and even in the oil pan more than likely due to cheap conventional + high idle time.

I ran regular old quaker state/formula shell and kreen for a few short 500-1000 ocis. It cleared everything up and the engine now has 3x as many miles on it than it did when I got it new.

After that, QSHM/later Defy was usually used unless something was on sale/closeout (Eneos, Amsoil, MC, I ran anything) it's a Ranger, it really isnt going to be to picky as those Ford/Mazda truck engines are built to run for a long time.

Find whatever 5w30 is on sale and roll with it. The Vulcan engine isnt going to care. I'd be more concerned with the electrical system/ignition system (plugs/coils/wires), transmission fluid, and differential fluid(s) maintenance than I would the oil choice at this age.

If needed, run a few cleaning cycles, RGT right now I believe still has its rebates going if you insist on a synthetic.
 
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I doubt a synthetic oil is going to clean up an engine by running it for a short OCI or two. IMO you need something to help it along if you're looking for fast results. Synthetic oil might do better cleaning than dino oil, but from what I've seen it needs help in problem or neglected engines.
 
Yeah I have heard a lot about the Vulcans going 200k+ miles with routine maintenance and general upkeep. Just want to make sure I am doing this the best way that I can.
 
Synthetic oil doesn't clean any more or less than conventional oil with the disclaimer of that being a broad statement and not including group V oils that aren't used as primary base oils. The only case where group V oils make up the primary base oil is Valvoline Premium Blue Restore which is ~50% polyol ester.

In order to properly clean up varnish and sludge, you need solvency. Group III and IV synthetic base oils have very low solvency, especially group IV, which is why they are often blended with group I or group V base oils to solubilize the additive package. The goal of oil is generally not to clean up dirty engines. It's to keep engines from getting dirty in the first place.

As far as additives are concerned, neutral detergents have more surface affinity and a better cleaning effect. Overbased detergents are much more concerned with acid neutralization than surface cleaning. Most of the detergents in engine oils are overbased.
 
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Originally Posted by demarpaint
I doubt a synthetic oil is going to clean up an engine by running it for a short OCI or two. IMO you need something to help it along if you're looking for fast results. Synthetic oil might do better cleaning than dino oil, but from what I've seen it needs help in problem or neglected engines.


Well this particular fill of Castrol Edge was put in just before I ran a can of sea foam through the gas tank. I know that sea foaming an engine requires a not so distant oil change due to possible carbon contaminants making its way down to the sump.
 
Originally Posted by RDY4WAR
Synthetic oil doesn't clean any more or less than conventional oil with the disclaimer of that being a broad statement and not including group V oils that aren't used as primary base oils. The only case where group V oils make up the primary base oil is Valvoline Premium Blue Restore which is ~50% polyol ester.

In order to properly clean up varnish and sludge, you need solvency. Group III and IV synthetic base oils have very low solvency, especially group IV, which is why they are often blended with group I or group V base oils to solubilize the additive package. The goal of oil is generally not to clean up dirty engines. It's to keep engines from getting dirty in the first place.

As far as additives are concerned, neutral detergents have more surface affinity and a better cleaning effect. Overbased detergents are much more concerned with acid neutralization than surface cleaning. Most of the detergents in engine oils are overbased.


What do you recommend I do then if I want to clean my engine? What products?
 
Originally Posted by NavyVet88
Originally Posted by RDY4WAR
Synthetic oil doesn't clean any more or less than conventional oil with the disclaimer of that being a broad statement and not including group V oils that aren't used as primary base oils. The only case where group V oils make up the primary base oil is Valvoline Premium Blue Restore which is ~50% polyol ester.

In order to properly clean up varnish and sludge, you need solvency. Group III and IV synthetic base oils have very low solvency, especially group IV, which is why they are often blended with group I or group V base oils to solubilize the additive package. The goal of oil is generally not to clean up dirty engines. It's to keep engines from getting dirty in the first place.

As far as additives are concerned, neutral detergents have more surface affinity and a better cleaning effect. Overbased detergents are much more concerned with acid neutralization than surface cleaning. Most of the detergents in engine oils are overbased.


What do you recommend I do then if I want to clean my engine? What products?


The right answer:
A severe service OCI and time.

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Edit:
myself and others have had good results with Kreen, yes, but it isnt the "right answer" as most OMs do NOT suggest oil additives of any type
 
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Originally Posted by NavyVet88
Originally Posted by demarpaint
I doubt a synthetic oil is going to clean up an engine by running it for a short OCI or two. IMO you need something to help it along if you're looking for fast results. Synthetic oil might do better cleaning than dino oil, but from what I've seen it needs help in problem or neglected engines.


Well this particular fill of Castrol Edge was put in just before I ran a can of sea foam through the gas tank. I know that sea foaming an engine requires a not so distant oil change due to possible carbon contaminants making its way down to the sump.

Any early oil change after the Seafoam would be a good idea. I personally have seen little to no proof of synthetic oil in and of itself cleaning up an engine with a few short OCI's. Maybe over a few years of use it might do some light cleaning. I agree with RDY4WAR.

I'd give Kreen a shot if you can get it.
 
I recommend you change your oil at 5k and don't look back. Last vehicle I bought had 80k with sludge in oil filter. I carried it back to dealer and was told since I bought extended warranty to let that kick in then bring it back. I even showed him the car fax where the oil was supposably changed with plugs and brakes where nothing was done. I sent email to general manager and even went to talk to him so long story short I was incorrect and tech was correct. I ran short OCI with Maxlife for 1500 miles then changed oil at 5k or once a year with Pennzoil Platinum. I got 7 years with a small oil leak that developed and no engine problems. Only way to clean up a severely dirty engine is take it apart.
 
Do what I did in my LC.....it was badly neglected....to the point that it "burned"
I bought HDEO (Shell rimula 10w40 R6M)....plus new filter.....did an normal OCI (10kks)...and voila! Oil consumption is gone ( HDEO loosened its oil rings).....turbo has normal whine for a non DPF car (EURO3 engine...straight pipe)....looks like that oil washed away grit around turbo bearings!

Just buy any HDEO that you like!!!
 
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Is the engine dirty? Have you looked in the valve cover oil fill hole? Just do your normal 5k OC and keep using synthetic. Despite what others have said, the M1 HM oils did a nice job of cleaning my engines (over time).
 
How did you determine the crankcase needs cleaning? I would run your new oil to the regular mileage interval you use.
 
Due to feeling morally liable if I tell you what I would do and then something bad happens, I will say that I agree with RDY4WAR and also with some others that Kreen has a reputation for cleaning effectiveness. I tested BG EPR and it certainly softens and dissolves engine deposits. No matter the chemical used, engine deposits are somewhat to very resistant to being dissolved, so don't expect anything to make the engine as clean as new. Anything that could do that would also destroy seals and gaskets which is a much worse problem than the problem attempting to be solved.

Look down the oil fill hole and on the dipstick for deposits. Use that and how dark you see your current oil getting to decide on when to change it. I expect you should keep it in for at least 3500 miles. If you see very little deposits, change it when the oil is very dark or at 7500 miles, whichever happens first. Also, if that's the case, I would skip using chemical cleaners. Just carry on with normal oil maintenance.
 
10-4 guys I appreciate the advice and will move forward with my normal maintenance routine
 
Just add Motor Flush 100 miles before oil change if you find out you got sludge.
 
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