What oil to use in a new Predator generator from Harbor Freight?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Dec 30, 2008
Messages
449
Location
wv
Its the 4000w (peak) model. Has a 212cc 6.5hp (or is it 7hp?) Predator "Hemi" engine.
What oil should I use in it so it would be capable of emergency use, be it -20F or 115F. Is this asking for pie in the sky? I would also like the capability of the thing running continuously for days under load without the oil giving up on me. Should I break it in with a less expensive oil and then go to an exotic synthetic? What is the problem with some true synthetics attracting moisture? And lastly, what does everyone think about the Honda "Power Equipment" 10w-30 in the black bottle with a red label?
...Other general generator and Predator engine tips and tricks would be appreciated.
Thanks guys.
 
Any Euro VW502 approved 0W40. It'll allow easier starting when it's cold out, provide protection when it's hot and have the old fashioned zinc to keep it alive.
Don't worry about synthetics attracting water. Your not putting PAG oil in your engine are you?
 
The oil needs changed every 2 days that you run it. So.... conventional SAE30/SAE40 if you are running it during an extended outing. For year round use, synthetic high mileage oil 10W30 or 0W40 is a good option.

The Honda 10W30 is nothing fancy, conventional oil. Not something I would spend money on.
 
5w40 or 0w40

Although neither is optimal for all conditions

Summer with 90F+ I'd run a 15w40

winter or when temps dont exceed 80f ,0w30

Right now Mobil 1 is 8$ from walmart after rebate, can get it shipped to your house and upto 4 rebates per address (4)5qt jugs
 
I have the same generator, had it for 5 years. I first ran store brand cheap 5w 30 in it for break in. Then I switched to store brand syn 5w30. I usally start it up every month and let it run for at least a 1/2 hr with a load on it. It starts really easy when it's in the teens. That the lowest it gets around me except for an occasional 0-5 f night. I change the oil at least once a year, because there is no filter on it.,,
 
I have 2 of that engine in garden OPE. Oil used is less important than gas situation. Emergency use suggests it will sit until needed. Exercise it at least monthly for 30 minutes, some under load. Especially if you have ethanol.

Use Stabil and fresh gas.

Change out the plug to an NGK BPR6ES. Check part # to be sure.

Check all hoses regularly.

I use Mobil 1 10W 30 because I just happen to have it on hand. Really doesn't matter that much.
 
Last edited:
Mine has a drain on the carb.


I drain it after running it out. It has sat for 2 years and fired up first pull.

Rod
 
I have the same engine on my Coleman trail bike and I just use M1 10W30. No issues to report. It gets pretty hot but it doesnt use any oil. I also recommend changing to the NGK sparkplug.
 
I have the same generator, it's been working great. I've been running Rotella T5 10W-30 since it was new, and recommendation (I asked here a while ago) was that 50 hours was a respectable interval to change it even though the manuals say 25. I bought a $10 inductive pickup hourmeter off Amazon to monitor the hours. I turn off the fuel valve after unplugging everything to burn off what's in the bowl. I've tried draining it as ragtoplvr suggests, but after burning it off there's nothing to drain out from the float bowl (I checked). No oil consumption, and I haven't seen any sparklies in the oil even when it was breaking in. I keep Sta-bil in it, and run it 20-30 minutes a month with a 500 watt halogen lamp plugged in.

Since the manual left out this detail, the sediment bowl that it says to clean out periodically is the bottom of the fuel valve. Shut off the fuel first and it just unscrews with a wrench.
 
Break it in on cheap 15w40. Switch to 0w40 for emergency standby. Once you're in the rut of your emergency you'll know what temps to expect and what the perfect oil will be to change to.

To get to 50 hours though you'll burn through probably 20-25 gallons of fuel. You're going to want to start rationing at this point.

If you drain your oil hot, the engine block will still be warm when you refill with whatever you feel like, so even a 15w40 won't be out of place in subzero continuous use.

My chonda generator stinks up the garage when its tank is full. It does not have a sophisticated EVAP system. If I let it sit long enough I can imagine the "good" gas evaporating, leaving sludgy goo.

I have an aftermarket dual fuel carb so I finish every run on propane. This sucks air through the carb which gets any trace of gasoline well out of there for storage. 20 lbs (4.3 gallons) of propane from BJs wholesale is $11 right now, within the order of magnitude of gasoline. (Slightly cheaper and slightly less energy dense)
 
I use M1 10-30 in all of my OPE. Craftsman 21 HP B@S engine. Craftsman power washer with B@S engine and my 5 KW PowerMate Generator wit the Subaru engine. I have used M1 10-30 for 30+ years in all my OPE with great results.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by j_mac
Its the 4000w (peak) model. Has a 212cc 6.5hp (or is it 7hp?) Predator "Hemi" engine.Thanks guys.
Personally I am running Mobil 1 10w-30 High Mileage in that same engine, albeit mine is the Predator 3500 inverter. My other generator may be more similar to yours. It is a Champion 3500 / 4000 peak open frame model, full 3600 RPM run mode. This one has been running Rotella T6 5w-40 for the past three years. These generators take about 20 ounces of oil; it may be a good idea to standardize on something you will always have around. Keep in mind that this is 20 ounces of oil every two years without use, or 20 ounces ever two days when you really need a generator.
 
Rotella T6 5w-40 Synthetic is a very good choice for this purpose. You can use it from day 1. It is available everywhere for a good price.
 
What wag123 said
grin2.gif
 
Last edited:
I broke in an off-brand 3500/4050 watt generator with the same Chinese Rato 212cc engine over the last two weekends. First oil fill was Shell Rotella T4 15w40 because its what I had. I installed a magnetic dipstick from "6061dude" on ebay, filled the 4-gallon gas tank approximately half full according to the built in gas gauge, tied on a cheap Tach/Hour-meter, and ran it under varying load for 0.9 hours or roughly 1/4 tank of gas according to the built-in gas gauge. I drained the glitter oil and cleaned a pile of iron filings off the magnetic dipstick. This weekend I filled the gas tank back to about half, refilled the engine with SuperTech 15w40 conventional diesel oil and ran the generator another two-ish hours under the same varying 0-3,200 watt load (two space heaters). There was much less wear-metal on the dipstick and really no metallic shine to the oil after the second run. Next weekend I'll drain all the fuel, fog the cylinder, and put it back in the shed for another 2 years or until I need it. Next time I need it I will fill with whatever SAE30/15w40/5w40 I have on-hand that matches the requirements for the outdoor temp.
 
I've run Rotella T6 5-w40 in my open frame Champion, 3600 RPM, for three years now. I've run it at 20F, and close to 100F. I will be putting the same Rotella T6 in my Predator 3500 In inverter ASAP.
 
Theres a guy on youtube who has on of the HF Predator 3500 inverters on a sleeper cab truck. He's got over 1500hrs on it. He followed the manual for the first 150-200hrs and now only changes the oil when it stops running due to the low oil shutoff. I'm going to say that these things aren't too sensitive to what you put in them, personally I use T-6 5w-40 or Mobil 1 5w-40 because that's what I have on hand.
 
My China Made CAT RP7500e generator comes with a similar - or perhaps the same! - 420cc engine than the Predator 9000. Cat recommends all those weights, depending on the ambient temperature. I run Delo 400 SDE 15W-40. Cat loves it
smile.gif


[Linked Image]
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top