Newb Questions

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Originally Posted by A_Spruce
Sorry for the long post, I tend to get wordy, especially when I'm trying to describe something for feedback.

Is it ok to be talking about general mechanics here or is it preferred to keep things specifically to filters and lubricants? I'd love to be able to chat about some of the quirks the Burb presents, such as the vibration/rattle at start up (see previous post) or simply share the process of the TLC that it's taken to bring the Burb up to snuff. Is there a different forum where these topics would be more appropriate?

There are forum sections here on bitog to talk about maintenance/mechanics etc.
 
Originally Posted by krismoriah72
Diff fluid- there is a fill plug up near the middle on the side, at least check to see that its full.. while you are in there just poke your finger in and get a sample and smell if its burnt..also wipe on a clean tissue to see if it appears to be new or old.

On your front end clunk- make sure that the front shocks are installed properly with the washers and rubber dampers. (i have seen those installed incorrectly). Also there are grease zerks not sure if you or anyone has greased the front end lately.


Spark Plugs- If you still have OEM spark plugs in they were set at .60 gap.. but GM changed the gap to .40 in a GM bulletin (#03-06-04-060A) So if you pull one and the gap is .60 its probably OEM. When you go to change them go with AC Delco P/N 41-985 they are gapped at .40.

Next time you are under the vehicle look to see if the Fuel Filter has been changed.

Last but not least.. Does your Burb have a spare tire under the rear? If so you should check to see if you can release it if needed. The tool kit is hidden in a secret compartment in the back. I checked mine last year for the first time anyone has ever tried. The tool kit has a special handle that you fish thru a keyhole access in the bumper. Well the handle did not work (for me).. i gave up and luckily have a buddy that works at a GM dealership.. I took it there one day and he was laughing but in the end he could not get the tire to release either. The shop foreman gave it a try also.. so no way could the tire be released without cutting it off with a torch beside the road.

Well i remembered one more thing... you need to take a peek at your Cabin Air Filter. (there are two panels). Personally i dont like breathing anyone elses funk...so i always replace Cabin air filters when i get a new to me vehicle. The panels are on the passenger side below the glove box under a panel.


Diff fluid, fuel filter, LOF, among other things, were supposedly done by the shop. Unfortunately, I can tell you for a fact that they didn't come near the thing with a grease gun or brake bleeder, so I am questioning everything they may or may not have done and it's all on the list of things to deal with when I have the chance.

I've read that the spark plugs like to seize themselves into the hole if they've never been changed, any tips on dealing with that?

I hadn't thought of dropping the spare, good idea. It might even be original to the truck, will have to look. I know that it's got near new tread on it and I did check the pressure when I checked the rest of the tires. Oh, and this Burb doesn't have cabin filters, that was the first thing I checked for. I believe it to be a base model truck.

Another quick story and reason I'm done with the shop I used to use. The Burb came with an aftermarket stereo with a backup camera. The previous owner wanted blue tooth for their phones, but didn't install the camera. I had the shop do this, figuring they'd run the wire out the firewall and around the outside. No, they pulled the interior and ran it under the carpet, which is fine, the problem is, they drilled a hole through the weatherstrip and pinch weld of the hatch, tearing up the plastic interior trim in the process, rather than properly routing it. I took it back and complained, so they pulled the plastic floor trim of the hatch and stuck it through one of those holes . . .
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. . . This hole was used by a locator dowel on the trim piece, which pinched the wire against the side of the hole. I ended up drilling a hole in the side of one of the bed ribs in the floor and rerouted the wire properly. Then I siliconed the wire in the center of the hole to seal it and insulate it. Camera works fine now and the wires aren't going to work harden or rub through. Again, everything they did was done so poorly or ignored, that I don't trust anything that was done. 25 years ago it was a fantastic, attention to detail shop, not anymore.

I'll look for the other forums you mentioned and post a "build" thread of sorts there to continue the conversation.
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Several posts have suggested Dex6 tranny fluid. I assume that Dexron 6 supersedes the Dex3 that the owner's manual calls for?
 
Originally Posted by A_Spruce
Several posts have suggested Dex6 tranny fluid. I assume that Dexron 6 supersedes the Dex3 that the owner's manual calls for?

It is backward compatible, yes.
 
Quick update:

Burb now has 3000 miles on the OCI, no oil life monitor light yet (expecting it around 3500), and no unusual things to report. Oil is showing some signs use, it's a very light coffee color now and still on the "full" hash mark, all indications of a healthy and happy motor. The only minor issue is that the oil filter has a drip issue. With the garbage work the shop did at the start of things, I suspect that the filter gasket wasn't lubed before installation and isn't sealing properly because of it.
 
Originally Posted by A_Spruce
Several posts have suggested Dex6 tranny fluid. I assume that Dexron 6 supersedes the Dex3 that the owner's manual calls for?


It's because Dex VI, is thinner than new Dex III, but Dex III would shear down quickly and end up thinner than VI.

So generally speaking it's a very good upgrade. I'd use Valvoline Maxlife Dex/Merc in that trans, and so several pan drops with at least one new filter. With an addition of a bottle of Amsoil flush on the first pan drop.

Those 4L transmissions are... less than stellar.

After you clean it, and get most of the nasty old fluid and grime out. Look at shift improver kits and the upgraded solenoids/accumulators/pistons...

Also carefully examine the tail housing for cracks/bushing wear.

Then which rear end do you have? Is it a 10 bolt with a Gov bomb?

Is it 2WD, 4WD, or AWD?
 
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My pre-purchase inspection, the tranny fluid was not discolored and no unusual odors. Tranny was serviced by a shop immediately after purchase. It was a pan drop/filter change, so only a small portion of the fluid was changed. In the 6 months and 3k miles I've put on it, the shifts seem to have improved. I suspect that a full fluid flush would be helpful, but not something I'll be able to deal with for a while. I don't drive hard or abuse it, which should help longevity some.

I don't know what the future holds for the Burb. I really enjoy driving it, it's a nice vehicle, it will do what I need it to do for now, and I have no plans of selling it. I expect that within 6 months I'll be buying a work truck, which will make the Burb a 2nd vehicle to be driven even less than she is now. If I keep it long term, I'll likely rebuild the tranny, upgrade the cooler, and possibly add a shift kit to avoid any likelihood of future failure. Just depends on what money and needs dictate as time goes forward.

I've got a general maintenance/repair thread going here:
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/5168571
 
Currently have 3800 miles on this oil. The filter, which I believe to be an AC Delco (done by mechanic) has had a very minor drip since day one, which has led to a minor drop in oil level over the course of the last 7 months. The vehicle oil monitor light has yet to come on, which by all indications should have happened by now.

Checked the oil this morning, it's definitely dark, but not what I'd call "black", and the level is maybe 1/4" below the absolute full hash mark on the stick. Supposedly the mechanic used Mobil 1 synthetic, though, due to a number of issues with the work done, I don't trust anything that was done or what I was told to be accurate, and I have used this mechanic for the past 25 years, but no longer. He used to be good, now he's not and I've moved on.

At any rate, I will be changing the oil in the next couple weeks, partly because of the leaking filter and partly because I don't know when I'll have the chance to do it in the next 3 or 4 months. I'd love to do an oil analysis and cut open the filter on this 150K engine, just for shizzles and grizzles, but it ain't gonna happen.
 
Update:

The Burb currently has 5400 miles on the latest OCI (M1 with Fram filter), 1500 miles of that was towing a decently loaded trailer. The OLM has yet to come on. I'm feeling like 7500 miles will be the magic number for OCI, but will continue to watch the color of the oil as well.

The oil has some color to it, but you can still easily see through the oil, whether it's on the dipstick or your fingers. There is some slight consumption now and the engine has the typical "tick" of piston slap when it's cold. Once she warms up, no strange noises anymore.

What's it cost to send an oil sample into a lab for testing?
 
Does your OLM show you the % left? My 06 is somewhere around 6500. The piston slap/ticking can be mostly eliminated with a few tweaks. What Fram filter are you using?
 
Originally Posted by LeakySeals
Does your OLM show you the % left? My 06 is somewhere around 6500. The piston slap/ticking can be mostly eliminated with a few tweaks. What Fram filter are you using?


There has been no sign of the OLM ever. The 02 GMC had a dash light that would come on, this 03 Burb doesn't seem to have much for fanfare, but it's got several quirks that seem odd to me, such as no buzzer when the door is left open with the key or lights left on. The previous owner installed a different stereo to have blue tooth, so it's possible that they messed with a few things, but ????

With the OLM, there could be some sort of "kiss her here, rub her there, tap her just right" scenario that I'm not aware of, I just assumed that an OLM light or display would come on at an designated time/mile. I've been looking for the manufacturer recommended OCI, I want to say it's somewhere around 3500 or 4000 miles, but I've not found it in the owner's manual yet to confirm. Everyone here says today's oils can easily do 7500+ especially if they're synthetic, which the M1 is.

What are the "tweaks" you refer to that can eliminate the piston slap? GM says that it's "normal" and once things warm up and tolerances close up a bit, no more noise. I can't quote the Fram #, but it was what was recommended in this thread.
 
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