One more bite at the 5w20 v. 5w30 debate:

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Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted by 4WD
Not sure you understand … I buy motor oil from XOM, RDS, CVX, etc … regardless of point of purchase …

OK..... are the packages rainproof / salt-proof? Does your imported oil purchases ever get sea-sick and throw up / leak?

Am I starting to understand your buying M.O's better now?




👹
 
Originally Posted by csandste
I intend on making my weight decision and announcing it by the time this thread hits the bottom of the display stack. Let's have more weight debate.

This thread is the very definition of a troll and your post confirms it.
 
Hyundai has issued a TSB on going up from 5w-30 on it's 2.0T with an option with no specs/certs on a mandatory 5w-40 oil. Seems they are now a "Tricky" on the 2.0T because of oil boundary layer issues.
 
20W50,end thread.
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This thread started out quite well...

Still looking for weight insights. Please, no more brand discussions, import bashing, troll accusations, etc.

Really looking at making the decision between 5w20 and 5w30.
 
Originally Posted by wemay
2018 KIA Sportage 2.4L...
Running QSAD (conventional) 5W-20 right now in South Florida and have zero concerns for the 4.5 - 5K miles it'll be in the sump.


and

As mrjube said, not only are the 5W20 oils proven, they're proven because they're made better than they ever were in the past. Better base stock of oil and additive package.

Find these two statements compelling.
 
Originally Posted by Mainia
Hyundai has issued a TSB on going up from 5w-30 on it's 2.0T with an option with no specs/certs on a mandatory 5w-40 oil. Seems they are now a "Tricky" on the 2.0T because of oil boundary layer issues.


A 2.0 non turbo is not the same as a 2.0 turbo, but this also concerns me. I'm torn.
 
Originally Posted by csandste
Originally Posted by wemay
2018 KIA Sportage 2.4L...
Running QSAD (conventional) 5W-20 right now in South Florida and have zero concerns for the 4.5 - 5K miles it'll be in the sump.


and

As mrjube said, not only are the 5W20 oils proven, they're proven because they're made better than they ever were in the past. Better base stock of oil and additive package.

Find these two statements compelling.


5W20 and 5W30 of the same brands will have the exact same base stock.
 
20W50,end thread. drive. Thanx aquariumscum I was gonna say 10 w 30. Or HDEO 30 5K mile OCI Thankfully don't have a dog in this fight. plenty of experience with fuel dilution in carbed engines though. Port injected EFI greatly extended engine life.
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Originally Posted by aquariuscsm
Originally Posted by csandste
Originally Posted by wemay
2018 KIA Sportage 2.4L...
Running QSAD (conventional) 5W-20 right now in South Florida and have zero concerns for the 4.5 - 5K miles it'll be in the sump.


and

As mrjube said, not only are the 5W20 oils proven, they're proven because they're made better than they ever were in the past. Better base stock of oil and additive package.

Find these two statements compelling.


5W20 and 5W30 of the same brands will have the exact same base stock.


Same base stock, but a quart is a quart. Same base stocks? Same additives? More VI in 5w30-- so, what's missing to make up for the additional viscosity improver?
 
Either works just fine. There really isn't that much difference at operating temp. A little bit of fuel dilution and you have 20W.

For the OCD gang around here changing their oil religiously at 5K - 3 months, it just doesn't make a difference. And for those worried about those viscosity modifiers, how many timing chains have you trashed?

Much to do about nothing.
 
Originally Posted by csandste
Originally Posted by Mainia
Hyundai has issued a TSB on going up from 5w-30 on it's 2.0T with an option with no specs/certs on a mandatory 5w-40 oil. Seems they are now a "Tricky" on the 2.0T because of oil boundary layer issues.


A 2.0 non turbo is not the same as a 2.0 turbo, but this also concerns me. I'm torn.



How about this: you are driving a make that is gaining a reputation for early engine failures. There are some TSBs issued for that make requiring thicker oil (albeit not your variant of the engine - but I would like to put a "yet" there); a 30 weight gives a thicker oil film and therefore offers more protection.

In your place, I'd be inclined to follow the instructions from the TSB, since the oiling system is (likely) identical. There will be no harm and the upside is pretty big.
 
If you look at your owners manual you will see that you can use 5W-30 for your engine. Use it.
 
I'd use 5W-30. It's seemed to work great in my Hyundai. The real debate isn't 5W-20 vs 5W-30, but 5W-30 (now synblend instead of conventional) vs 10W-30 (lower NOACK, more shear stable, but conventional instead of synblend).
 
I don't like football, or sports period. Sabans a lucky son of a gun, to be getting paid what he is to do something as useless as coach football, and he knows it. It's a crock how we idolize sports and it's stars in this country.
 
Originally Posted by Red91
I don't like football, or sports period. Sabans a lucky son of a gun, to be getting paid what he is to do something as useless as coach football, and he knows it. It's a crock how we idolize sports and it's stars in this country.


Wow, we're really getting into drift and I need to get to the gym and exercise.

Didn't do a final count, but it looks like after falling behind early, the 5w30 crowd came back to take the poll.

I've used a lot of 5w20 on this car and a previous 1.6 liter Rio-- never had an incident with either of the weights.

Since it's still summer (and I like to throw about four ounces of Marvel a few hundred miles before my oil change), I'll probably stick with 5w30, at least until my next oil change. I might give 5w20 another chance come my next, late fall oil change)-- I'm doing about 1700+ miles a month, so mid-October is right around the corner.

Thanks to everyone who replied. This subject has been around several times before but like to get your thoughts.
 
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